You may be able to use the 120 volt outlet, but I think you may have trouble with the breaker tripping if you use any other appliance on that circuit. Even a small water heater draws 12 amps.

Yes, same same! My palm tree out front loves the 2 gallons of cold water it takes to reach the shower.

This is what you need
 

Instantaneous water heaters don’t move water unless, it has a cert pump built into the unit. This has a timer You set for usage or you can leave it on full time. I’ve been using one for years from TN south.

No return line needed!
 

No return line needed with this unit😉

No Wi-Fi
 

No Wi-Fi or government needed with this unit😉

No return
 

No return needed and easy install.

I thought the patio villas were 1,156 sq feet??

It would take you so many years to recoup your upfront costs to install one. They also require yearly maintenance to keep the warranty.

It's a total waste of time and money. The gas company offers great deals on replacement tanks installed and they will add $8 a month to your bill to pay it off interest-free.

30 posts and a lot of incorrect information.
A tankless/instant hot water is just that, no 60 gallon tank of water you heat all day long wether using it or not. The second you turn on a tankless/instant water heater it heats the water going thru the line, but all the water in the lines after the tankless water heater has to exit before the hot water is at the faucet.
If you want instant hot water at the faucet right when you turn it on, there are a couple ways to do this:

1) put a recirculating pump that circulates the hot water in the pipes so heated water is at the faucet

2) put separate tankless/instant hot water heaters in all the bathrooms/kitchen/laundry room so you don’t have any cold water in the lines at the faucet.

Some of the issues with tankless/instant hot water products, the most efficient are gas units. A little unit to get you instant hot water for tea or a bathroom faucet can be a small electric unit but a unit for a bathtub or shower, you need a bigger unit.

If what you’re hoping to accomplish is really “instant” hot water at your master shower (usually the furthest point) the moment you turn that hot water on, as many have stated, it ain’t going to happen.

We’re in our third home here in TV. First had a conventional 40 gal tank fired by natural gas.

Second home had a conventional 40 gal tank, electric.

In our current home, we have a natural gas fired tankless heater…..

I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that having that “instant” tankless heater makes ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE in the time it takes to get hot water to the furthest point in our home , the master shower.

It takes about 1 1/2 minutes of the hot water running before you can step into the shower……

I agree. I would add that another advantage to a tank type water heater is that almost any plumber or HVAC contractor can replace the tank within 24 hours, and sometimes the same day. But, if your tankless heater fails, there is no guarantee that you will not be without hot water for days or longer due to the lack of available parts.

Ohiobuckeye
 

You’ll probably be OK with one them in Florida. But I don’t think you’ll get hot water any faster, we’ve had all the instant hot water heaters. Myself I’ll go back to the ole reliable hot water tanks. Instant hot water might make your electric or gas bill go up slightly though.

1-1 1/2 Minutes to Heat? No Way....
 

How is it that my MB shower heats up in an acceptable amount of time, but my MB sink faucets can take up to 5 or more minutes to achieve a warm status? That's warm, not hot. I often wash up in the evenings without ever having to turn on cold water to mitigate the heat coming from the hot side. So frustrating.....

not sure you want to do this
 

you will be wasting a lot of water because they take 4-5 minutes for the hot water to ever get to the faucet in your shower. Wastes lots of water

Simple, Straight-Forward Advice
 

Tankless water heaters are fine. The delay in delivery of hot water is no different than with a standard water heater. Patio homes have small garages. Perhaps, you want to free up a few additional square feet of floor space by eliminating the standard tank and having an electric tankless heater mounted on the wall or a gas one mounted outside. The only other advantage of a tankless heater is that you will have a continuous supply of hot water at one temperature.

A circulating pump is a relatively simple solution to the problem of a delay in the delivery of hot water to remote faucets with either type of water heater. However, with the tankless heater you have to either employ the complicated solution of programing the tankless heater to automatically go on and off. Even then, this is an imperfect solution as the tankless heater will be running a great deal of the time and there will be "colder" spurts of water during the times the tankless heater is not running.

The better solution is to install a small "holding" tank of several gallons capacity for hot water between the tankless heater and the house's water system and add a circulating pump to the holding tank. The tankless heater turns on when the water in the holding tank falls to a certain temperature, just like a regular heater. Of course, there must be a drain line to remove water from the holding tank while it is being refilled by the tankless heater.

Personally, with the small number of people who will be living in most homes in The Villages, I see no need to have the endless supply of hot water from a tankless heater. It's one thing to have 2-4 people using a bath or shower vs 5-8 when we had children in the house.

I am more interested in having a minimal delay in the delivery of hot water throughout our house. This is accomplished by a small circulating pump. One poster displayed a photo of a Grundfos pump. That company sells an identical pump under the Watts name for $100 less. Both are available at Home Depot.

The Grundfos and Watts pumps do not require a return line as some posters have mentioned. In existing homes, it is nearly impossible to install return lines. The Grundfos and Watts pumps use an ingenious system which continuously circulates hot water throughout the house by using the cold water lines as return lines. This is possible by a special "manifold" installed at the faucet furthest from the hot water heater. That manifold is shown in the photo of the Grundfos system. It is a 12" long plastic tube with internal valving. When all the cold water faucets in the house are closed, the valves in the manifold direct the hot water being pushed by the circulating pump into the cold water line which then carries the water back to the water heater. When a cold water faucet anywhere in the house is open, the special valves in the manifold close and only cold water circulates in the cold water lines. With this system, you will have hot water at the faucet or shower furthest from the water heater in a second or two. The circulating pump uses little electricity, perhaps a penny or two worth per day.

Two things to know about circulating pumps. First, as hot water is being circulating in the cold water lines, there will be a delay in the delivery of cold water at the faucets, similar to the delay in the delivery of hot water when there is no circulating pump. That can only be avoided by having a dedicated return line for the hot water, something which is only feasible with new construction. I've found the delay in the delivery of cold water to be a small inconvenience in comparison to the convenience of having nearly instant hot water at the faucets and showers.

Second, in The Villages, most houses will require two of the special manifolds as the water lines are "split" after they enter the house. In our house, this required a manifold in the each bathroom. This is not a big deal as the second manifold only costs around $50.

The Watts pump and a second manifold, if needed, will cost around $275, the Grundfos an additional $100. They are an easy installation for anyone with a few basic tools and a willingness to lay on their backs while installing the manifold(s) under the sink(s). I did it, and, instead, wished I had hired a plumber and gone golfing.

Final advice. If you install the circulating pump, (and even if you don't) at the same time change the "sacrificial anode" in the hot water tank. This is an aluminum or magnesium rod in the tank which protects the tank from corrosion caused by the minor amount of electricity which continuously circulates through water systems. These should be replaced every 4-5 years as they, literally, dissolve in doing their job of protecting the water tank. Not one in 500 people know about these anodes or ever have them replaced. They cost less than $40 at Home Depot or on Amazon. They can be a "bear" to replace as you will need a heavy duty wrench or socket and, usually, a torch to heat the head of the anode as they always seem to be stuck in place. The anode will either be a large hex head in the top of the water heater near the inlet and outlet pipes or will part of the outlet pipe (in which case it is even harder to remove). I did this once several years ago. Since then, I have hired a plumber.