Muriatic acid works. That is what the paver folks use when resealing pavers. Not sure how the previous poster tried to apply it, but I use a 50-50 mixture of muriatic and water. Pour a small amount on the stain, then rinse within 5-10 seconds. If you leave it there, it will discolor the paver, and may turn out to be more noticeable than the rust was! Repeat the process until the stain is gone. Sometimes this takes 4 or 5 cycles.

I had similar spots. Whitecap did not work. I figured out that what happened is a gut with an electric cart parked there after a rainfall. There must have been some acid on top of batteries and water got on top and the solution dripped off to damage concrete. So far no solution.

Oil is tough to remove. Products that are solvents, thin the oil and drives it deeper into the porous cement. You need to be stubborn-several applications. Dawn is a commonly sold dish detergent. You likely recall them bathing oil soaked birds in it. It works and is fairly mild. What you want to do is put it on and wipe off the liquid. Easy way, use kitty litter to soak up, draw out the liquid. You can also try ammonia a good oil cutter. Dish washing detergents also good grease cutters. Vinegar a mild acid. Muriatic acid a far stronger acid-it says protect your eyes for a reason. It is hydrocloric acid.

What does work?

And the wire brush takes a few seconds and leaves no residue or white marks. When you pour Muriatic acid on the stain it tends to run making an even larger mark on the porous pavers and to avoid acid stain you have to time the rinsing perfectly, too long you end up with white spots, not long enough the iron stain remains. Pavers are not the same as a concrete drive. The wire wheel is so simple, easy, and fast why not try it.

r u saying
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place
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