I researched this a bit the other day when SF said no-go on my 2019 home. This is a big section of the 2020 revision. It details different ways a builder may comply with the new underlayment requirements. Most (Villages) I believe are using self adhesive types, which are mentioned first. The similar language/section in the 2017 code is much less descriptive but does also detail underlayment:

1507.1.1.1 Underlayment for asphalt, metal, mineral surfaced, slate and slate-type roof coverings.
Underlayment for asphalt shingles, metal roof shingles, mineral surfaced roll roofing, slate and slate-type shingles, and metal roof panels shall comply with one of the following methods:

1.The entire roof deck shall be covered with an approved self-adhering polymer modified bitumen underlayment complying with ASTM D1970 installed in accordance with both the underlayment manufacturer’s and roof covering manufacturer’s installation instructions for the deck material, roof ventilation configuration and climate exposure for the roof covering to be installed.

Exception: An existing self-adhering modified bitumen underlayment that has been previously installed over the roof decking and, where it is required, renailing off the roof sheathing in accordance with Section 706.7.1 of the Florida Building Code, Existing Building can be confirmed or verified. An approved underlayment in accordance with Table 1507.1.1.1 for the applicable roof covering shall be applied over the entire roof over the existing self-adhered modified bitumen underlayment.

2. A minimum 4-inch-wide (102 mm) strip of selfadhering polymer-modified bitumen membrane complying with ASTM D1970, installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions for the deck material, shall be applied over all joints in the roof decking. An approved underlayment in accordance with Table 1507.1.1.1 for the applicable roof covering shall be applied over the entire roof over the 4-inch-wide (102 mm) membrane strips.

Exception: A synthetic underlayment that is approved as an alternative to underlayment complying with ASTM D226 Type II and having a minimum tear strength of 15 lbf in accordance with ASTM D4533 and a minimum tensile strength of 20 lbf/inch in accordance with ASTM D5035 shall be permitted to be applied over the entire roof over the 4-inchwide (102 mm) membrane strips. This underlayment shall be installed and attached in accordance with the underlayment attachment methods of Table 1507.1.1.1 for the applicable roof covering and slope and the underlayment manufacturer’s installation instructions.

3. A minimum 33/4-inch-wide (96 mm) strip of selfadhering flexible flashing tape complying with AAMA 711, Level 3 [for exposure up to 176°F (80°C)], installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions for the deck material, shall be applied over all joints in the roof decking. An approved underlayment in accordance with Table 1507.1.1.1 for the applicable roof covering shall be applied over the entire roof over the 4-inchwide (102 mm) flashing strips.

Exception: A synthetic underlayment that is approved as an alternative to underlayment complying with ASTM D226 Type II and having a minimum tear strength of 15 lbf in accordance with ASTM D4533 and a minimum tensile strength of 20 lbf/inch in accordance with ASTM D5035 shall be permitted to be applied over the entire roof over the 4-inchwide (102 mm) membrane strips. This underlayment shall be installed and attached in accordance with the underlayment attachment methods of Table 1507.1.1.1 for the applicable roof covering and slope and the underlayment manufacturer’s installation instructions.

4.Two layers of ASTM D226 Type II or ASTM D4869 Type III or Type IV underlayment shall be installed as follows: Apply a 19-inch (483 mm) strip of underlayment felt parallel to and starting at the eaves, fastened sufficiently to hold in place. Starting at the eave, apply 36-inch-wide (914 mm) sheets of underlayment, overlapping successive sheets 19 inches (483 mm); end laps shall be 6 inches (152 mm) and shall be offset by 6 feet (1829 mm). The underlayment shall be attached to a nailable deck with corrosion-resistant fasteners with one row centered in the field of the sheet with a maximum fastener spacing of 12 inches (305 mm) o.c., and one row at the end and side laps fastened 6 inches (152 mm) o.c. Underlayment shall be attached using annular ring or deformed shank nails with metal or plastic caps with a nominal cap diameter of not less than 1 inch (25.4 mm). Metal caps are required where the ultimate design wind speed, Vult, equals or exceeds 170 mph. Metal caps shall have a thickness of not less than 32-gage sheet metal. Powerdriven metal caps shall have a minimum thickness of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm). The minimum thickness of the outside edge of plastic caps shall be 0.035 inch (0.889 mm). The cap nail shank shall be not less than 0.083 inch (2.1082 mm) for ring shank cap nails. The cap nail shank shall have a length sufficient to penetrate through the roof sheathing or not less than 3/4 inch (19.05 mm) into the roof sheathing.

5.Two layers of a synthetic underlayment that has a product approval as an alternative to underlayment complying with ASTM D226 Type II shall be permitted to be used. Synthetic underlayment shall have a minimum tear strength of 15 lbf in accordance with ASTM D4533, shall have a minimum tensile strength of 20 lbf/inch in accordance with ASTM D5035 and shall meet the liquid water transmission test of Section 8.6 of ASTM D4869. Synthetic underlayment shall be installed as follows: Apply a strip of synthetic underlayment that is half the width of a full sheet parallel to and starting at the eaves, fastened sufficiently to hold in place. Starting at the eave, apply full sheets of reinforced synthetic underlayment, overlapping successive sheets half the width of a full sheet plus the width of the manufacturer’s single-ply overlap. End laps shall be 6 inches (152 mm) and shall be offset by 6 feet (1829 mm). Synthetic underlayment shall be attached to a nailable deck with corrosion-resistant fasteners with a maximum fastener spacing measured horizontally and vertically of 12 inches (305 mm) o.c. between side laps, and one row at the end and side laps fastened 6 inches (152 mm) o.c. Synthetic underlayment shall be attached using annular ring or deformed shank nails with metal or plastic caps with a nominal cap diameter of not less than 1 inch (25.4 mm). Metal caps are required where the ultimate design wind speed, Vult, equals or exceeds 170 mph. Metal caps shall have a thickness of not less than 32-gage sheet metal. Power-driven metal caps shall have a minimum thickness of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm). The minimum thickness of the outside edge of plastic caps shall be 0.035 inch (0.889 mm). The cap nail shank shall be not less than 0.083 inch (2.1082 mm) for ring shank cap nails. The cap nail shank shall have a length sufficient to penetrate through the roof sheathing or not less than 3/4 inch (19.05 mm) into the roof sheathing.

filing a claim
 

Are claims being honored in Fort Myers after Hurricane Ian. I wonder which companies are the easiest to deal with.
I'm asking you this because if it takes them five years to settle a claim and I'm 80 years old, why even bother with homeowners insurance. I'm assuming I'm going to die when I'm 86..

Any Insurance company that picks and chooses who they want to cover or leaves the state should be put out of business. Our Governor signed a bill last year that protected home owners from insurance companies in regards to roofs but failed to limit the premium increases companies can charge.

I’m shocked to hear that. We just signed up with Progressive for our homeowners insurance two months ago.

Most people keep their bad habits, lol

After being dropped by Progressive I was told by SF we needed a new roof on our 10 year old home. I called back to get more details about the roof and then was told they were not taking on new homeowners.

Higher homevalue
 

I just read on here the other day somone replaced the roof to avoid being canceled or getting higher rates for insurance. After the replacement, the insurance company raised the rates anyway due to the home value increasing due to the new roof. Homeowner loses every way possible when it comes to rates. The insurance companies need thier wings clipped!

Very informative attachment. Thanks

As has been noted before, Florida has the highest number of insurance claim lawsuits in the nation.

Correct. Some wont admit it but this (FL) is one of the most litigious populations in the nation. While the Gov did some work on 'roofs', it didn't go far enough. While they do some due diligence...as a regulator, theyre limited. That...and I believe 3.9M in contributions from the 'industry' during last reelection....hes compromised. The weather and lawsuits will ultimately make competition anemic here. It will be a battle between the ultra premium paying haves....and the ever growing, going rogue (uninsured) have nots! IMO

It's a mess that's for sure

Why do people keep on using the roofs claims as the main reason for our insurance cost . The 3 highest states for property claims are California , Texas and Florida ,they are also the 3 states with the most natural disasters . There is nothing that’s ever going to change that fact and as we warm up .it’s going to get worse .You can whine all you want about insurance but people are still moving here because it’s still cheaper then many of the places people are coming from , one example is ,did you come from a state with state taxes if you did compare that to your higher insurance rates and see what you actually save and how about us New England people , what’s your savings on heating compared to the uptick in your insurance? I am not as concerned about the uptick in insurance as I am in getting it ,, but as we get hit with more natural disasters I’m sure they’ll be a fix found because if not the state will just be left with gators and the love bugs and that’s not going to happen

Many feel your pain!
 

I requested a quote from them and they told me my home (built in 2000) was too old for them to insure. Jake, from State Farm, must have needed a raise. 3 year old roof and a new water heater did not make a difference. Too bad for them.

Nope, not us.

We had a new house, a Laurel Oak, built here in 2016 and we have State Farm Insurance. We have had no problems and our insurance premiums have increased very little.

Probably not wise to trust State Farm, especially if you need to file a claim. Their attorneys and so-called adjusters will fight you for every dollar.

Strange that my manufactured home that was built in 1987 with a 17 year old asphalt shingle roof is still being renewed with no mention of the roofs age. Granted my yearly insurance is a thousand more than I was paying on a home that was worth twice as much 3 years ago.

Are you in Historic District?
‘87...sounds like you may have one of Mr. Schwartz old places! ;)

State Farm tried to pressure me into signing up quick earlier this month. They changed, and now they don’t write home policies any more. My roof was replaced in 2023. I bought a policy from Tower Hill Insurance Exchange, a Gainesville based company, highly rated by BBB. I had quotes from two different agencies and settled with an Allstate agent in Hollywood Florida. They saved cost by eliminating the “other structures” part of the HO3 policy. You cannot have an “other structure” on your lot in The Villages.

Our home was built in 2010, and still has the original roof. We switched to State Farm this past April 1st and also bundled our vehicles. The Homeowners rate was $750 less than our previous insurer, and the cars were $100 more (for 6 months). Sure hope we don't get a cancellation notice

What changed?
 

https://www.floridabuilding.org/fbc/...ergy_Final.pdf

Progressive, and the company they own, ASI, are not accepting ANY NEW CUSTOMERS, for homeowners.