[stadry]

needed to remove tank in order to paint over the gawd-awful almost-glow-in-the-dark chrome yellow existing color,,, bride decided on sher-wms 'invisible grey (gray)'
not to hijack my own thread but,,,,,,,,,,,,, 3/8" drywall ? not even 1/2" ??? haven't yet figured out how they got the resulting finish - not 1/2" or 3/4" nap roller that i can 'see'
good tip on replacing shutoffs - will get 1/4turns instead
evidently mike scott did the original install here as his sticker was on the inside of the tank lid

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by stadry

needed to remove tank in order to paint over the gawd-awful almost-glow-in-the-dark chrome yellow existing color,,, bride decided on sher-wms 'invisible grey (gray)'
not to hijack my own thread but,,,,,,,,,,,,, 3/8" drywall ? not even 1/2" ??? haven't yet figured out how they got the resulting finish - not 1/2" or 3/4" nap roller that i can 'see'
good tip on replacing shutoffs - will get 1/4turns instead
evidently mike scott did the original install here as his sticker was on the inside of the tank lid

There should be enough space between the toilet tank and the wall to slide a paint pad on a stick back there. Just a suggestion.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by E Cascade

I have been told that if water damage is due to leakage from a valve with shark bites, it will not be covered by homeowners insurance. It must be a compression fitting. I don't know if this is true or not, but have been told that by a plumber in another state. Anyone else have info on this?

I think what the plumber told you was hogwash. It won't affect your homeowners insurance. Also, plastic pipe fittings are not compression fittings, they are glued together.

[Dilligas]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

By fan or portable swap cooler.

On line at coolmygarage.com. Easy to install

[maggie1]

Originally Posted by stadry

this valve is a new 1 to me - appears to be either nylon or plastic fitting - turning cw/ccw has no effect & concerned 'pulling' may cause pipe burst,,, feed pipe's cpvc
better off turning off wtr at street/house ???
need to paint behind commode
thanks in adv

The shut off valves that come standard, especially in patio villas, are the push/pull variety, and subject to fail with extended use - they are very cheaply made. We had a leak under the sink, requiring me to place a bowl under the valve until I could get it repaired. The plumber came - replaced the valve with a Sharkbite valve, and the line with a flexible metal line. All toll, it took him about 15 minutes to do the project, and I was out $50. I have since purchased the Sharkbite vales myself, and replaced every valve and water line in the house. Amazon has a package deal, with ten valves for around $60, or you can purchase one at Ace Hardware, and work on one valve until you become proficient at removing the old one and installing the Sharkbite. I'm no plumber, but this was the easiest home project I have ever attempted, and successfully completed.

[maggie1]

Originally Posted by E Cascade

I have been told that if water damage is due to leakage from a valve with shark bites, it will not be covered by homeowners insurance. It must be a compression fitting. I don't know if this is true or not, but have been told that by a plumber in another state. Anyone else have info on this?

You might want to check with your insurance carrier on that - it doesn't sound reasonable to me. I would make a wild guess that the plumber was......well, you know. DIY plumbing doesn't contribute to a plumber's income.

[merrymini]

I would assume that these valves are usually used mostly in an emergency and not prone to being overused but have no doubt that they are inexpensive, builders grade stuff. For tight spaces I use a very narrow roller with a long reach available at home depot or such.

[jamorela]

I replaced all of mine with turn valves. Torri plumbing did the work.

[transplanted]

Originally Posted by stadry

you're ALL genius - afraid to pull for fear of having to call a plumber on a sun which's probably 2x time
thanks, bud !
when we left atl, i posted a note in the garage for the new owner - location or irrigation control boxes, last time furn filters changed, etc,,, he'll probably not know how to change a filter but that's his problem
now - what about my hot garage ? :-)

We bought a roll down screen for the garage w/in the last year thinking we would open the garage more to get some air in there. Our attic was also dreadful so we looked into getting it insulated and adding fans, etc. Best move we have done. We had the attic insulated, as well as the area over our small, enclosed lanai.
When the guy came out to give us an estimate, the gentleman said we didn't need all the fans, etc., due to the way our attic was laid out. He also recommended we just do the attic first and see what we thought; if wanted more, he'd come do the garage. Their guarantee is that the attic will not be more than 5 degrees above the ambient temp - and they give you a little temp gun to check with. We have barely used our screen since doing the attic! I don't check the attic a lot, 'cause I don't open the door to it much and just don't think about it, but whenever I do check - it's good! But I'm telling you what! I have a digital thermometer in the garage and it is usually right at the outside temp or less - I don't open the garage door for the screen use 'cause it's hotter out there! Been very happy with it.

[Penwal60]

Pull it out. That’s the best way

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by crash

Swamp coolers work by evaporation so they do not cool in high humidity environments just make it more humid.

Then why were throughout the south and southwest. I had swap cooler it Ft. Worth Texas In the early 70’s, it cooled the skin not some much the air temperature. But it would lower the air temperature in the house.

[retiredguy123]

The average house has about 10 of the push-pull valves. These rarely need to be used. At the toilet, the only reason to close the valve is to replace the fill valve or the toilet itself. You can replace the gasket, chain, or fill hose by having someone hold the fill valve in the closed position without closing the push-pull valve. Another option is to shut off the main water valve, which probably should be tested periodically anyway. I don't think it makes sense to have a plumber replace all of the valves. Even if you do, there is no guarantee that new turn type valves will not leak. My opinion.

[EdFNJ]

Originally Posted by Scorpyo

........ I have no problem sweat soldering a copper pipe but I’m reluctant to mess with breakable plastic. I’m glad to learn the in-on, out-off. If it was lefty loosie, tightie righty the post may have gone in a totally different direction. Lol

Plastic is EASY. You're not going to break it. Just don't cut it too short on the wall side! Plastic makes sweating copper seem like rocket science engineering. Cut N' Glue (or push using sharkbite). I prefer the glue method.

[arbajeda]

To paint behind the commode get a fly swatter and paint pad. Cut the swatter to fit the pad, attach the pad to the fly swatter and you can paint away.

[cubfan1126]

I use a 5 gallon paint stick and a rag. It works.