i wish I could sell you some air
 

Chemical composition of Atmospheric Air.
What Is the Chemical Composition of Air? - Elements in the Atmosphere

When I had my Saturn I used regular air and the tires wouldn't hold it very well. But now, with nitrogen, I can go 6 months without losing pressure. Yes, regular air is mostly nitrogen, I'm aware of that. But it's the smaller percentage of oxygen that keeps leaking out because the molecules are smaller.

Consumer Reports May '13 issue, under "101 Secrets From Our Experts," p.17, "Don't bother using nitrogen in your tires to keep up tire pressure. It's a waste of money. Air is 80% nitrogen anyway, and air or nitrogen will leak out of tires over time, our tests show. Check your tire pressure regularly." p.19, "You don't have to change your oil every 3,000 miles as some service shops suggest. Follow the interval recommended in your owner's manual, usually 5,000 miles or more."

:agree:

For those who still think nitrogen is needed, would you be interested in some just slightly moist farmland I have for sale?

:D

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N2 has larger molecules therefore the big selling point is it won't leak out as easily as compressed air and temperature will not affect the tire pressure as much. But as another said, it's all hype. Just put those little green valve caps on and you're all set!

:agree: My Toyota requires 0W-(something), which as far as I know, is only available in synthetic.

Good point. :D

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I think the theory behind nitrogen is air temp. has less effect on nitrogen. We know when it cold (Not Florida Cold, but real cold) air pressure is reduced and when it hot Not Florida hot but Midwest or Az. summer hot. air pressure increases along with heat build up in the tire. With nitrogen there is no moisture and temps. in theory has less effect. How much less??? If my tire was low it wouldn't bother me abit to put regular air in them... They also in theory say the tires don't deteriorate as fast with nitrogen. I'm still on the fence about nitrogen filled tires, about to fall of on the non-sence side...

yes 0w-20 to 50 is syn. oil. which is about $7+ bucks quart the last time I brought some. For some that may not know the 0 in the oil number means it's will be thin in cold temps. the 20 to 50 number means it will be thicker when it's hot. So on cold morning in Mi. say -25 the oil will be thinner so it will get to the bearings quicker...If it had straight 20w or hopefully not 30W the oil would be like honey and not flow to the bearing quickly or may not even build up pressure quickly i the extreme cold. about 60 years ago muli-grade oils made it so you didn't have to change you oil just because it getting real cold or real hot. 0-20 syn is the best forumlated oil devoloped.

That was my point.

If you dont care about the life of your engine, go once a year. If you are worried about your investment I would go two or three times a year. Depending on how many miles you put on it.

Never, Never had a dealership ask me to prove I changed the oil when I brought it in for warranty work. They may say that but they only real care about getting the reimbursement from the parent company for the work performed. They would never turn down your business.

At least that has been my experience with new car warranties.

I believe you should always follow the manufacturers recommended service schedules, whether for oil changes or anything else.

These companies spend hundreds of millions of dollars on research to determine the optimum parameters for engine durability and reliability. I worked for a company that spent over a BILLION dollars per year in research and development; much of it in the development of enhanced engine technology.

Changing engine oil multiple times per year, without the corresponding mileage is unnecessary.

I agree. Twice a year or every 6-8k is good. Being a former auto mechanic, changing your engine oil on a timely basis is the single most important thing you can do for your car.

This is true. Along the same line, Honda of Ocala was offering an automatic transmission fluid change for $79.95, my owners manual recommended that the ATF be changed at 30K so I called them up to make an appointment. I asked if this was a complete or partial change and was told partial which is about 3.5 quarts of ATF and that a complete drain and refill would be much more expensive. I decided to do it myself for $30. My point is that sometimes the dealer doesn't even follow recommendations.

I don't drive a lot of miles anymore, maybe 5000 annually, so I get the oil changed once a year even though the manufacturer says 7500. I was told on a new car, to not change the oil too soon because they put some additives in the original oil.