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When changing your oil, I would suggest using synthetic oil, even if the manufacturer doesn't require it. It doesn't cost much more, it is more durable, and you may end up spending less for oil changes long term because you can extend the time between changes.
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For cars that sit idle for long periods, I really don't know. |
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It can provide early warning off developing problems long before they cause an expensive headache. You'll be able to pick up on contamination or impending bearing or ringland failure with a high presence of wear metals. I generally use them a few times on each new vehicle to gauge health of the engine, how it likes the particular oil used, and if it need to be changed prior to mfg recommendations. I do it again six months prior to the car going out of warranty. Let hard data tell you what you need to know about what’s going in inside your engine. |
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Changed my oil cost me 32 bucks with 0-20W/filter and 20 mins, less if I wasn’t so old and my car wasn’t so low to ground. You are not ones trying to reach it’s ones that never check oil level or wait for idiot “change engine oil soon” to light up to get to 10% That may take years? But, don’t matter anyway cause 99% of them lease or trade every two or three years. |
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Many may be paying-$100-150+ for the dealer to change their oil. 12 mo or 10K mi always seemed hard for me to believe. I like data, a UOA on an Audi (turbo) recommended 7,500 mi oil change when doing UOA testing oil at 5K. Mfg recommend is 10K. So I would never let a turbo charged motor go more than 5K without an oil change. The one fluid that most nobody changes is brake fluid which needs to flushed every couple of years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture out of the air. Not good for modern ABS systems that can cost thousands to replace. YMMV |
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I had 3 year old Vega changed it own oil also in Texas 79, I paid 650 for it to get me work 3 miles. it had the most crappy engine ever made. Kind of wish I would have kept it, they make neat drag cars with BBC and power glide. |
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With millions of EVs on the road today and thousands of electric carts in the Villages and elsewhere, just what constitutes "taking off"? What will it take for the naysayers to accept that the boogeyman of battery-replacement cost is a non-starter? |
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Recently, I got a synthetic oil change at Wildwood Tire for $78. They don't suggest another oil change for 10,000 miles, but I will probably do it after 7,500 miles, which will be about one year. |
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What few million compared to billion. A few. |
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Just use a MB 229.52 /Porsche C30 oil 5w30 every 2 years is fine. Zero sludge or shearing. Valvoline XL-III is a good one and is relatively cheap.
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Some say true, some say false. And maybe they refine it better these days. :thumbup: |
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12K internals That was 3 oil changes in year on down road driving which puts around 80 to 90% or less wear on engine so, your Toyota actually had less than 100K wear on engine. Probably closer to 60K with oil change internals. Extreme conditions like start and go, stop and go driving, pulling heavy loads, or extreme dusty conditions like in desert states require different oil change internals. Not me saying this it’s the industry. |
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Remember the Slant 6 engine (Dodge/Chrysler)?
So durable and indestructible it would run with no oil....or pancake syrup! |
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Oh course if you have the same car and beat the hell out of it and change the oil only at the manufactures recomended mileage....your car will last forever...but I must admit there is something cathartic about changing way before it is really needed. |
LOL!
read a very interesting repair mechanic's post about changing oil about 1 particular car: the owner never changed oil once in the greater than 5 years of ownership. Never once! instead he just changed the filter every 2,000 miles and added oil. The car was traded into the same dealership, the mechanic went to check inside the engine, and the engine had very little wear. The most important point is using the best filter you can buy, as that is what keeps the oil clean in the engine and keeps the engine wear to a minimum. For low mileage driving, change the filter every 6 months and add oil. On the very small coastwise tanker I worked for about 5 years, it had twin GM locomotive 2 stroke diesel engines. The oil was changed every three years in the shipyard. The oil was kept clean with a centrifuge oil cleaner and filters. not sure how often the filters were changed, but we had to be in port for a significant period of time in order to take an engine offline, as ships need to ready to leave the dock at any time. . So don't go all oil change crazy when regular simple maintenance of the most important part of the lubrication system is required. YMMV |
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Not possible to just change the filter without draining the oil if the filter is on the bottom. |
My 2009 Volvo XC60 lux has the oil changed once a year. I have never topped it up, or needed too.
What type of oil or filter the garage uses, I have not a clue. It runs and sounds fine, been all over UK and Europe, and gets us from A to B without problems. Modern oils and filters do not need frequent changes. That's all oil company BS. 10-12,000 miles between changes is fine for family cars. Sports and supers, have their own problems. |
There might be some cars where this is true but I have never seen one. Every car that I have owned has had the filter on the bottom of the engine and could be changed without draining the oil. For convenience, I typically remove the filter first.
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I'll stick to my full synthetic with filter oil change for $30 once a year if I need it or not. |
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