[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by Bill14564

When I write, "Absolutely no maintenance," what that means, precisely, is I performed absolutely no maintenance on that battery. I didn't clean the terminals, I didn't give it a bath, and since it was designed to be maintenance free, I did not attempt to pry off the cover to check the electrolyte level. Absolutely no maintenance on that battery and it lasted at least four years and probably five.

It is possible that the electrolyte level was low and refilling it might have made the battery work again. Still, I didn't try prying off the cover of the maintenance-free battery. Or maybe I tried (can't exactly remember) but found it was not going to come off without breaking so I gave up. In either case, I did not add any water to it, I simply replaced it.

AI Overview
While often marketed as "maintenance-free," batteries still require some degree of care and attention. They are designed to minimize water loss and the need for topping off, but regular visual inspections, cleaning, and proper charging are still recommended.
Here's a more detailed explanation:
What "Maintenance-Free" Means:
Reduced water loss:
.
"Maintenance-free" batteries, particularly VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) batteries, are designed to minimize water loss during charging and discharging. This is achieved through a recombination process where oxygen and hydrogen gases produced during charging are recombined back into water within the battery.
No need to add water:
.
Unlike older flooded lead-acid batteries, you typically don't need to open the battery and add water to maintain the electrolyte level.
What Maintenance is Still Required:
Visual Inspections:
Regularly inspect the battery for any signs of damage, such as cracks, swelling, or leaks.
Terminal Cleaning:
Clean the battery terminals and cable connections to remove any corrosion, which can hinder electrical flow.
Proper Charging:
Ensure the battery is charged properly, especially if it's been deeply discharged. Overcharging or undercharging can damage the battery.
Temperature Considerations:
Extreme temperatures can affect battery performance and lifespan. Avoid prolonged exposure to high or low temperatures.
Storage:
If the battery is stored for a long period, ensure it is fully charged and stored in a cool, dry place.
In essence, "maintenance-free" refers to the reduced need for water additions and less frequent maintenance compared to older battery types. However, regular care and attention are still necessary to ensure optimal performance and longevity.

So you are no preventative type of guy?

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by P A Paul

What impact would the “new improved” starter create ($800 installed) vs existing starters on my 2017 and 2018?
All the new carts are provided with higher powered starters. My repair guy suggested after continuous issues with current battery life.

What brand cart? Yamaha’s have starter generators. What continuous issue? If there drain on battery when key off and sets days starter/ generator not going to fix that? Probably dozen more questions to ask. Like does speedometer constantly draw current? What add ons on the cart? Is charging system over or under charging? Don’t take much cranking ampere (CAs) to crank golf cart air cooled 12 HP or so engine. Again don’t which cart you have but original stater/generator should crank if fine. Unless you have V-twin engine which I am unfamiliar with in golf carts?

[P A Paul]

Thanks for follow-up questions…Yamaha quiet tech, under roof fan, 0.2 volts…reached the of slow/no start before the 18 holes was finished. Had both batteries (Less than a year old) tested at O’Reillys and showed “bad”…new higher batteries installed.

Day one — Bonifay to Lopez, (40 min drive averaging 25 mph) battery voltage on speedometer starts out 14.3 then settles in to 11.7 for the entirety of the round with the fan running for 4 hrs.
Day two — Bonifay to Glenview (30 min, 25 mph) voltage starts 11.7 then mostly 11.2, fan runs 4 hrs.

It was suggested the speedometer voltage meter isn’t accurate, though to me the numbers are relative.

Will apply a voltage meter to cart in neutral and see true measurements at battery.

[KennyP]

Originally Posted by P A Paul

What impact would the “new improved” starter create ($800 installed) vs existing starters on my 2017 and 2018?
All the new carts are provided with higher powered starters. My repair guy suggested after continuous issues with current battery life.

Your repair guy suggested "new improved" Run away!! ......its a sales pitch,,, you dont need it.

[P A Paul]

Would agree but lacking other diagnosis/remedy?

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by P A Paul

Thanks for follow-up questions…Yamaha quiet tech, under roof fan, 0.2 volts…reached the of slow/no start before the 18 holes was finished. Had both batteries (Less than a year old) tested at O’Reillys and showed “bad”…new higher batteries installed.

Day one — Bonifay to Lopez, (40 min drive averaging 25 mph) battery voltage on speedometer starts out 14.3 then settles in to 11.7 for the entirety of the round with the fan running for 4 hrs.
Day two — Bonifay to Glenview (30 min, 25 mph) voltage starts 11.7 then mostly 11.2, fan runs 4 hrs.

It was suggested the speedometer voltage meter isn’t accurate, though to me the numbers are relative.

Will apply a voltage meter to cart in neutral and see true measurements at battery.

Starting out at 14V then drops to 11.2, that’s big problem, at 11.2V battery being discharged. Should never drop below 13V with engine running t least mind never does. Most Speedometer has to have initial setup like tire diameter? It’s that’s not right won’t read right? Fans also pull little more amps than lights pushing air which further drains battery quicker when generator not charging battery at least 13V or higher. Need figure out why when cart running at governed speed the generator not charging above 13Vs Voltage regulator problem or wiring problem would be my guess?

[P A Paul]

Thanks…kinda like Sherlock Holmes/Columbo pursuit of the facts….LOL