[Arctic Fox]

.
Any recommendations/warnings - I can't find any trace on-line

Thank you

[villagetinker]

First ask for references, then check with BBB and seniors against crime.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Arctic Fox

.
Any recommendations/warnings - I can't find any trace on-line

Thank you

Barry Smith is listed as being an employee or associated with Collis Roofing. Collis Roofing is a licensed Roofing contractor in Florida, but, Barry Smith does not appear to have an individual roofing license. Collis Roofing has 19 complaints on the BBB.com website, and if you read the complaints, I don't think you would ever hire that company, or anyone who worked for them. You may want to ask Barry Smith if he is associated with Collis Roofing.

[EastCoastDawg]

always a good call, VillageTinker

[EastCoastDawg]

I suspect one person has applied for the license and others are doing the work, RetiredGuy123

Always a gamble as to who actually turns up to do the job

[dewilson58]

Sack Roofing is great.

[Arctic Fox]

Thank you all for your advice and comments

[noslices1]

Battersbee roofing did and does many of the original roof for Villages homes. All good reviews

[taruffi57]

McHale Roofing - Fruitland Park 352-255-2758. Top quality. Real pros.

[wganderson13]

Sacks roofing A+; BBB Stay away from David Hall! BIG time scammer

[caljeff]

I had my roof replaced in January of this year due to underlayment failure. The low estimate was from Dan Shepler (Fruitland Park) roofing. I was and still am quite satisfied with the results.

[Nancymacy]

Thanks for info.mi too was looking. Nancy

[ProfessorDave]

Collis is a gigantic company - so 19 complaints for them would be like 1 for most roofing companies.

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.
Hope this helps. If you want to deal director with a qualified crew – I might be able to help. My deal with them: if they do a roof for a “friend” they give me a $5.00 Starbucks gift certificate. (They wanted to give me more – I will not take it! We compromised on Starbucks.)

[Arctic Fox]

Originally Posted by Dharrisoncmo@gmail.com

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice...

Excellent advice, Dharrisoncmo - thank you

My biggest problem is that the roof has a leak and I depart TV on Labor Day so I need a company that can replace the roof immediately (and they all seem to be fully-booked for eight weeks) or make it fully waterproof until they can do the replacement.

[New Englander]

Originally Posted by Arctic Fox

Excellent advice, Dharrisoncmo - thank you

My biggest problem is that the roof has a leak and I depart TV on Labor Day so I need a company that can replace the roof immediately (and they all seem to be fully-booked for eight weeks) or make it fully waterproof until they can do the replacement.

If it is leaking in one spot a handyman could go up and apply a roofing mastic over the area and it may work until you can get the roof replaced. I did this to my house up north years ago and it worked great.