[Proplusplumbingllc]

Originally Posted by Bogie Shooter

Does be sorry, you could post on here “the sun is shining” and somebody would question where you got your information.

This is true! Thanks for the kind words

[Carla B]

Originally Posted by Blueblaze

10 years on a water heater? Give me a break!

I do not understand the obsession with water heaters since I moved to Florida. My insurance company forced me to spend $1500 to replace a perfectly serviceable 18-year-old water heater that was located in my garage, for crying out loud! How much damage can a burst water heater do in a garage? If your water heater fails by developing a leak, you will most likely just have a leak dribbling into the leak-pan and drained away. What do you think that pan is for? On the one-in-a-1000 chance it actually does split a seam and burst -- so what? You've got 40 gallons of clean water dumped on your garage floor and sloshing against your metal garage door before it drains into the street! Big whoop!

The only other time in my life I have ever replaced a serviceable water heater was a house in Houston, where they idiotically allow them to be installed in the attic. When I bought the house, I removed the 25-year-old, 50 gallon monster in my attic because I knew it would be full of calcium and difficult to remove if I let it go any longer. It was --- three burly plumbers could hardly lift the empty tank to get it down from the attic. And then they thanked me by installing a faulty CPVC fitting that failed, which squirted water in the attic for who knows how long until the sheetrock over my bathroom tub fell in, thereby producing the exact calamity I was trying to avoid!

Why would you risk disturbing functional plastic plumbing in your garage any more often than necessary? I say replace your hot water tank when it quits working and fire your insurance company if they complain.

I thought it was my husband talking as I read your reply. "If the water heater fails and leaks, it will just go out the garage." Fifteen years old and counting; same with air conditioner, same with appliances. I hope they don't all go at once.

[Blueblaze]

Originally Posted by ThirdOfFive

Seems to be a relatively common thing. We just changed home insurance and had to put in a new hot water heater as the old one was installed the same time the house was built 1999). The insurance said we had to install a new one before they'd insure us. It dropped our annual insurance premium from approx. $4000 to less than $2000, so we had a net savings of about $800 plus a new water heater.

Can't really blame the insurance companies for what is happening though. They're obviously trying to cut down their risk as much as possible. Our agent said that something like 40% of home insurance claims involve water damage. So--yeah. Old roofs, old water heaters, bad siding, etc. can all be the root of claims. If the companies cut back their risks so that they can keep premiums status quo rather than increasing them as much as they have over the past 2-3 years, then I applaud what they're doing. Saves us all in the long run.

I guess in the future, we will only be able to afford insurance on a new house. We'll live in it one a year, then buy a new one, and the old one will be demolished, to save the insurance companies from actually assuming any risk.

Waitaminit -- I thought the entire point of insurance was to assume risks.

Want to know the real reason most home insurance claims involve water damage? I guarantee its not because of hot water tanks in the garage. It's because we allowed builders to install plastic plumbing in our houses. Outlaw CPVC water pipes and water damage claims will go back to near zero -- like they were 30 years ago when we all had copper plumbing and 20-year-old roofs, and our yearly insurance payment was half a monthly house payment.

[Remembergoldenrule]

40 gallons of water (the amount in bath tub) doesn’t just go out garage door. It first goes through all the wood closet it is in and everything in that closet. Next it will seep through adjoining wall and what ever is on other side of wall. Also, what ever is in path as water flows freely in all directions. It will pool some next to door do to seal and lip of concrete there. We had a tank leak. Ruined cabinet and anther cabinet and baseboard and bottom or workbench along with few other things that were in path. Neighbors leaked into house and caused floor damage.

[Keefelane66]

Originally Posted by Remembergoldenrule

40 gallons of water (the amount in bath tub) doesn’t just go out garage door. It first goes through all the wood closet it is in and everything in that closet. Next it will seep through adjoining wall and what ever is on other side of wall. Also, what ever is in path as water flows freely in all directions. It will pool some next to door do to seal and lip of concrete there. We had a tank leak. Ruined cabinet and anther cabinet and baseboard and bottom or workbench along with few other things that were in path. Neighbors leaked into house and caused floor damage.

That’s why pans are required under hot water heaters here in Fl with overflow drain to outside

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Remembergoldenrule

40 gallons of water (the amount in bath tub) doesn’t just go out garage door. It first goes through all the wood closet it is in and everything in that closet. Next it will seep through adjoining wall and what ever is on other side of wall. Also, what ever is in path as water flows freely in all directions. It will pool some next to door do to seal and lip of concrete there. We had a tank leak. Ruined cabinet and anther cabinet and baseboard and bottom or workbench along with few other things that were in path. Neighbors leaked into house and caused floor damage.

My water heater is not located in a closet. It is in the garage about 3 feet from the garage door. Hopefully, the water would find the garage door and flow out. I would point out that, if the tank bursts, there may be a lot more than 40 gallons because the house water pressure will still be on and continue to pump water into the tank.

[Velvet]

This was several years ago. Water heater failed at my parent’s place. Hubby drove out to Lowe’s bought one for a couple of hundred dollars, installed it himself and everything was good. In case you think much skill is needed, hubby worked as a bureaucrat.

[lawgolfer]

Originally Posted by Proplusplumbingllc

If your heater is 10 years old or older, it might be time to consider changing the heater before it fails 🕒

Villages Residents Special Pricing:

40 gallon Electric water heater (Installed $875.00)
40 gallon natural gas heater (Installed $1575.00) **TECO Rebates available! We will submit the rebate for you, you get paid!

Installation includes: pan to fit, expansion tank, and haul away of your old heater

*Be sure to mention Talk of The Villages and get 10% OFF!

Give us a call OR Comment on this thread if interested and we will reach out to you!

Pro Plus Plumbing LLC -
Family Owned and Operated - Serving The Villages for over 20 years

(352) 427-0337

You can also text us at the number above!

If you want a water heater to be both efficient and long-lasting, there are three things you must do.

1. Install a water softener. This prevents the build up of calcium in the tank as well in the lines and the faucets. Adding a softener even years after the original construction will, over time, help to remove the calcium which has built up over the years.

2. Drain and flush the water heater yearly. Attach a good garden hose to the hose bib at the bottom of the tank. Run the hose out to the gutter, and open the hose bib. If you've never done this, you will be shocked at the discharge from the tank. Unfortunately, if you have not done this yearly, there will be a substantial build-up at the bottom of the tank which will be as hard as stone. If so, you are paying a lot for extra gas to heat the water.

3. Regularly replace the sacrificial anode in the water tank. Probably not one in a thousand homeowners know this or, if they do know of it, don't bother doing it. The anode is a rod of aluminum or magnesium, an inch in diameter and the length of a broomstick that is placed inside the tank. On most tanks, it will be attached to the 3rd, large hex-head bolt on the top of the tank around or between the inlet and outlet pipes. If there is not a 3rd hex-head on the top of your tank, it will be integral with the pipe for the hot water outlet.

This anode is "sacrificial" as it is being slowly destroyed by the minor electrical current that is present in all water systems. Because the anode is aluminum or magnesium, the current will corrode and destroy the anode instead of corroding (rusting) the cast iron or steel of the walls of the tank. Without the anode, the walls of the tank will corrode and, eventually, will develop a leak.

For anyone who is a sailor, the anode in a water heater is the equivalent of the "zincs" in a boat, and you know how necessary it is to regularly replace those.

Replacing the anode can be a do-it-yourself project. However, it is not easy and is messy. If the anode is the hex-head, you will need a large socket and a long, strong, "breaker" bar. First use lots and lots of WD 40 or penetrating oil and, if necessary, heat the hex-head with a propane torch. If the anode is part of the hot water outlet it is best to hire a plumber as it is very easy to twist off the top of the outlet pipe, which will, likely, cost you a new tank. I've changed both types of anodes myself, but will never do so again.

The anode should be replaced at least every 5 years. Because the rate of corrosion of the anode will vary greatly, it is a good idea to do the first replacement at three years. If you find the anode is not completely destroyed at three years, do the next replacement at four years. Use a felt-tip pen to mark the date on the outside of the tank when you replace the anode so you will know when the next replacement is due.

If the anode in your heater has never been replaced, do it now. Even though you may have a lot of corrosion in your tank, replacing the anode now will stop the tank from corroding further.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by lawgolfer

If you want a water heater to be both efficient and long-lasting, there are three things you must do.

1. Install a water softener. This prevents the build up of calcium in the tank as well in the lines and the faucets. Adding a softener even years after the original construction will, over time, help to remove the calcium which has built up over the years.

2. Drain and flush the water heater yearly. Attach a good garden hose to the hose bib at the bottom of the tank. Run the hose out to the gutter, and open the hose bib. If you've never done this, you will be shocked at the discharge from the tank. Unfortunately, if you have not done this yearly, there will be a substantial build-up at the bottom of the tank which will be as hard as stone. If so, you are paying a lot for extra gas to heat the water.

3. Regularly replace the sacrificial anode in the water tank. Probably not one in a thousand homeowners know this or, if they do know of it, don't bother doing it. The anode is a rod of aluminum or magnesium, an inch in diameter and the length of a broomstick that is placed inside the tank. On most tanks, it will be attached to the 3rd, large hex-head bolt on the top of the tank around or between the inlet and outlet pipes. If there is not a 3rd hex-head on the top of your tank, it will be integral with the pipe for the hot water outlet.

This anode is "sacrificial" as it is being slowly destroyed by the minor electrical current that is present in all water systems. Because the anode is aluminum or magnesium, the current will corrode and destroy the anode instead of corroding (rusting) the cast iron or steel of the walls of the tank. Without the anode, the walls of the tank will corrode and, eventually, will develop a leak.

For anyone who is a sailor, the anode in a water heater is the equivalent of the "zincs" in a boat, and you know how necessary it is to regularly replace those.

Replacing the anode can be a do-it-yourself project. However, it is not easy and is messy. If the anode is the hex-head, you will need a large socket and a long, strong, "breaker" bar. First use lots and lots of WD 40 or penetrating oil and, if necessary, heat the hex-head with a propane torch. If the anode is part of the hot water outlet it is best to hire a plumber as it is very easy to twist off the top of the outlet pipe, which will, likely, cost you a new tank. I've changed both types of anodes myself, but will never do so again.

The anode should be replaced at least every 5 years. Because the rate of corrosion of the anode will vary greatly, it is a good idea to do the first replacement at three years. If you find the anode is not completely destroyed at three years, do the next replacement at four years. Use a felt-tip pen to mark the date on the outside of the tank when you replace the anode so you will know when the next replacement is due.

If the anode in your heater has never been replaced, do it now. Even though you may have a lot of corrosion in your tank, replacing the anode now will stop the tank from corroding further.

Most people will never do any of those things, and their water heater will still last about 12-15 years. Note that the Rheem owners manual does not recommend draining and flushing the tank or replacing the anode as regular maintenance items. Opening the drain valve can cause the valve to start to leak due to calcium build-up.

[Velvet]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

Most people will never do any of those things, and their water heater will still last about 12-15 years. Note that the Rheem owners manual does not recommend draining and flushing the tank or replacing the anode as regular maintenance items. Opening the drain valve can cause the valve to start to leak due to calcium build-up.

I think contractors would like to make things appear much harder than they are. To scare you into buying their services. It is too bad, in my opinion, they lose people’s trust.

[HJBeck]

Agree with you, but my issue is that this post was specifically intended to advertise. !!!!

[NoMoSno]

Originally Posted by HJBeck

Agree with you, but my issue is that this post was specifically intended to advertise. !!!!

Which is why it was posted in the "Contractor and Services" area of the forum. Its meant to be where contractors advertise.

[lawgolfer]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

Most people will never do any of those things, and their water heater will still last about 12-15 years. Note that the Rheem owners manual does not recommend draining and flushing the tank or replacing the anode as regular maintenance items. Opening the drain valve can cause the valve to start to leak due to calcium build-up.

Before any reader of these posts thinks my advice is not correct, he/she should consider:

1.That Rheem doesn't want you to properly maintain your water heater. Their business is selling you a new tank and having you be happy to do so every 12-15 years. $50 if done yourself, or $150 if done by a plumber, to replace the anode every 3-5 years is a lot cheaper than the cost of replacing a water heater and repairing the damage if the tank leaks or ruptures.

2. If replacing a sacrificial anode is not necessary, why do boat owners do so on a regular schedule? One of the first reasons that marine surveyors (inspectors) will downgrade, a boat that is being inspected for insurance purposes or sale is if the zincs have not been regularly replaced.

3. The reason the hose bib valve on a tank might leak after being opened is because the system does not have a water softener that prevents the build up of calcium.

You can do regular and effective maintenance on your house, appliances, and cars, or you can make complaints on this forum about the cost of replacing them.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by lawgolfer

Before any reader of these posts thinks my advice is not correct, he/she should consider:

1.That Rheem doesn't want you to properly maintain your water heater. Their business is selling you a new tank and having you be happy to do so every 12-15 years. $50 if done yourself, or $150 if done by a plumber, to replace the anode every 3-5 years is a lot cheaper than the cost of replacing a water heater and repairing the damage if the tank leaks or ruptures.

2. If replacing a sacrificial anode is not necessary, why do boat owners do so on a regular schedule? One of the first reasons that marine surveyors (inspectors) will downgrade, a boat that is being inspected for insurance purposes or sale is if the zincs have not been regularly replaced.

3. The reason the hose bib valve on a tank might leak after being opened is because the system does not have a water softener that prevents the build up of calcium.

You can do regular and effective maintenance on your house, appliances, and cars, or you can make complaints on this forum about the cost of replacing them.

I don't disagree with your advice, but most people are too lazy to do those things, including me. Some people don't even know where their water heater is located. Also, I have never had a water softener. Just another thing to maintain.

[justjim]

It’s about time for somebody to take on the lobby of the insurance companies. Your working hot water heater should have nothing to do with your insurance as it is not covered by your homeowners policy. What’s next. You have to replace your older dishwasher, washer or refrigerator because it’s too old and could cause an insurance claim. Your battery charger for your golf cart is too old and could overcharge and cause a fire and an insurance claim. If it’s not broke, you have to replace it anyway. Ridiculous!