Talk of The Villages Florida - Rentals, Entertainment & More
Talk of The Villages Florida - Rentals, Entertainment & More
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Garage Floor
Has anyone done their own garage floor with an epoxy based paint? Which one did you use? Was it difficult?
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#2
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I did our floor, did not use epoxy, so I cannot specifically answer your question, but I can tell you to be sure you add 'shark grip' or you may have a very slippery when wet floor. Check with whomever you decide to get the epoxy from about this additive. On a side note, I used an epoxy based paint in a basement many years ago, for water proofing, and the fumes were so strong that i was almost rendered unconscious, hopefully newer products are more friendly, but in any case I would have a fan on and the garage door wide open.
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Pennsylvania, for 60+ years, most recently, Allentown, now TV. |
#3
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no fans if paint is flammable.
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#4
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It is difficult if you want a good looking job. My neighbor did his and. Call Tim Miller he does a great job.
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#5
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#6
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I used a CLEAR "paint" that gives a wet concrete look, at the time, my better half did not want the epoxy with flakes. Now she does, and it is too late...
I purchased this clear at Sherwin Williams, along with the shark grip, while this worked well, the finish does not stand up to gasoline. I can probably find the exact name of the product if you need it.
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Pennsylvania, for 60+ years, most recently, Allentown, now TV. |
#7
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I second what everyone has said so far. Doing over 400 inspections in The Villages every year, I see a lot of nice epoxy garage floors...and more than a few really bad ones. There are about a half a dozen good companies out there that do this....Tim Miller being one of the very best.
However, if you do want to do it yourself, I recommend either the Rust-o-leum product, or the H&C brand from Sherwin Williams. The Rustoleum product, done as per the directions works great. It looks even better with the clear coat over it along with Shark Grip. I have done a few of my own garage floors with it and they turned out great. You must make sure the floor temp moisture level is correct before you start. Some tips....divide in the proper sections usually using the relief cuts as a guide. Measure the "flakes" in separate cups per section, so you do not run out of flakes.....if you have a small utility closet, do not forget to do that floor also.......use shark grip and/or another usually provided anti slip additive. I usually use both......work from the back of the garage towards the front so you do not get trapped.......use good lighting so you can see across the gloss so you do not miss any spots......if possible, do all of this the day after closing before you move anything in. That is the only time in your life your garage will be empty. Do NOT use a cheap product. You need to use a product that will NOT allow hot tire pick up. Beware of the cheap product or the cheap installer. If possible, if you hire someone, go look at his previous jobs. This is a project that you do not want to be a Cheapo on......if it is not done well and you get hot tire pickup or the look is poor, you will cry every time you see it for the rest of your days.....better to cry once when you pay for it and then be happy with it forever. If you have any doubts, hire it out....this is not a project that a "redo" is easy. The difference between hiring a good outfit and doing it yourself is only a few hundred bucks....divide that by the number of years of having a nice floor and it is not much. You may ask then why did I do it myself...well, I designed and built my own house and delivered my own kids...so I do almost everything myself. So, if you are confident you can do this it is an enjoyable and rewarding project.....but if you have doubts, hire it out as this is not a forgiving project. Hope that helps! Frank D.
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Florida licensed Home Inspector #HI688. (352) 250-7818 |
#8
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frank , you delivered your kids , that's where I draw the line, next time I will call you. lol
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#9
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Frank, very well stated, and i could not agree more.
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Pennsylvania, for 60+ years, most recently, Allentown, now TV. |
#10
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My garage has very noticeable expansion joints .260 or roughly 1/4"? Did you fill them in? if so what filler did you use and did it eventually crack at the joint?
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#11
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I filled in the stress cuts with a silicone based caulk, using a color that was close to the finished paint/coating. I would not fill these first and then paint as the 'caulk' may not be compatible with the paint, and the caulks tend to be soft, which will allow the paint to crack, chip, and peel. I used the silicone based caulk, so that when the concrete slab cracks (and it will) the flexible silicone will not crack, I am sure any hard fill will crack. JMHO.
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Pennsylvania, for 60+ years, most recently, Allentown, now TV. |
#12
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#13
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I think one brand is called Racetrack. |
#14
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Do you have a phone number for Tim Miller?
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#15
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Closed Thread |
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