[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by Bill14564

Still waiting to hear about the first person who has had to change lithium batteries due to their wearing out.

I’ve replaced the lithium batteries on my cordless tools several times. After so many charging cycles one day they work and next day they don’t. When charging Computer Circuit in lithium battery pack cut them off at about 1/3 discharge. How do I know this? I check it several times with multimeter when battery was discharged. Example 56V battery pack shut off at about 41Vs.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by Bill14564

At six years and 200K miles we traded our Prius; it was time for a new vehicle.

With millions of EVs on the road today and thousands of electric carts in the Villages and elsewhere, just what constitutes "taking off"? What will it take for the naysayers to accept that the boogeyman of battery-replacement cost is a non-starter?

Admit it you traded it cause you knew if was going to cost you big time. I drove Ford Torino for 180K miles and 8 years. When I sold it didn’t use any oil between changes. In those 8 years I changed water pump, brakes, heater hoses, tires. The kid I sold it to drove it for another 4 years going to collage. Not bad for his 1100 dollar investment.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

I have a Ford, but I use synthetic oil. I think some people don't realize that synthetic oil is really not much more expensive than conventional oil anymore, especially if you extend the time and mileage between oil changes.

Recently, I got a synthetic oil change at Wildwood Tire for $78. They don't suggest another oil change for 10,000 miles, but I will probably do it after 7,500 miles, which will be about one year.

If you use motorcraft brand it’s most likely synthetic blended if in red container? Blended is not full synthetic oil.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

If you use motorcraft brand it’s most likely synthetic blended if in red container? Blended is not full synthetic oil.

I went to Wildwood Tire and asked for full synthetic oil, not blended. The receipt says "full synthetic oil package (5 qt)", $69.95. If they substituted something else, then I have no way to know what I got.

[MorTech]

Just use a MB 229.52 /Porsche C30 oil 5w30 every 2 years is fine. Zero sludge or shearing. Valvoline XL-III is a good one and is relatively cheap.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by MorTech

Just use a MB 229.52 /Porsche C30 oil 5w30 every 2 years is fine. Zero sludge or shearing. Valvoline XL-III is a good one and is relatively cheap.

Porsche has oil refineries?

[firefighter4u]

Originally Posted by dewilson58

I have a car which is over 60 years old...........the engine in it is over 50 years old (more power!!!). The engine has 70,000 miles on it. As you can imagine, it sits more than it runs.

As a result, I change oil based on time.........not miles.
I change oil between 12 & 18 months.
Never had a problem.
Have dropped the oil pan to inspect.

I do stay away from Pennsylvania oil.

Just curious, what is wrong with Pennsylvania oil?

[CarlR33]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

Let’s see how many oil changes can I do vs cost of battery pack?

LOL, you might do the math on that one. A $69 oil change once a year x 10 years is $699 minimum. If you do more driving then it will be higher and don’t forget all the other “schedule maintenance” which may put you at that replacement battery cost. I heard for the Prius that is around $2K? I’m sure it’s more for a Tesla but how long do you actually keep your car anyhow?

[dewilson58]

Originally Posted by firefighter4u

Just curious, what is wrong with Pennsylvania oil?

Creates sludge faster (than other oils) in engines.

Some say true, some say false.

And maybe they refine it better these days.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by dewilson58

Creates sludge faster (than other oils) in engines.

Some say true, some say false.

And maybe they refine it better these days.

Old penzoil formula 40 plus years ago would foam also. Had friend that used old formula and rarely changed oil. Had SBC and lifter rattle problems. When I took valve covers off I could not see one lifter due to slugging and coking buildup. Penzoil now nowhere near the old formula. Another thing older vehicles with primitive PVC systems and old formulated oils would not reduce internal condensation which in winter months would Cassie oil to get diluted and look milky.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by CarlR33

LOL, you might do the math on that one. A $69 oil change once a year x 10 years is $699 minimum. If you do more driving then it will be higher and don’t forget all the other “schedule maintenance” which may put you at that replacement battery cost. I heard for the Prius that is around $2K? I’m sure it’s more for a Tesla but how long do you actually keep your car anyhow?

I don’t care

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by MX rider

You're right about synthetic oil. When I was working I was in outside sales and drove over 50k a year. I had a new Toyota Tacoma at that time. I always ran Mobil 1 synthetic and went 12000 on an oil change. At 200k miles I sold it and it still ran like new and used no oil.

12K internals That was 3 oil changes in year on down road driving which puts around 80 to 90% or less wear on engine so, your Toyota actually had less than 100K wear on engine. Probably closer to 60K with oil change internals. Extreme conditions like start and go, stop and go driving, pulling heavy loads, or extreme dusty conditions like in desert states require different oil change internals. Not me saying this it’s the industry.