[Barefoot]

Originally Posted by jimbo2012

here!

Thanks Jimbo. I didn't mean to question you. I had just thought Stellar offered two payment options; to pay monthly, or to pay in advance and get a "reward" of two months free. Thanks for the clarification.

[gmcneill]

From the UF/IFAS website for Empire Zoysia turf in Central Florida:

Sodded areas should be watered at least twice per day with ¼ inch of water until the sod is held fast to the soil by new roots (usually 2–3 weeks), after which watering should be reduced to an as-needed basis.

Irrigating on an "as-needed" basis is the best way to water any established, mature grass as long as the proper amount of water is applied when needed. Irrigation is needed when leaf blades begin to fold up, wilt, or turn a blue-gray color, or when footprints remain visible after walking on the grass. Apply ½–¾ inch of water per application. This applies water to roughly the top 8 inches of soil, where the majority of the roots are.
--(Once the turf is established, the best time to water is between 2am-7am)--

Medium- to coarse-textured zoysiagrasses should be mowed weekly, or when they reach a height of 3–4 inches. They should be mowed at a height of 2–2.5 inches with a rotary mower.

As a general rule, the first fertilizer application of the year should be early April in Central Florida. Since zoysia grass is very slow to green-up in the spring, avoid applying fertilizer until after the turf has become fully green to avoid premature green-up, which is prone to frost injury. This is especially important in North Florida, where late spring frosts may damage the grass. Delaying spring fertilization until the turf is actively growing and can use the fertilizer also reduces the potential for nitrogen leaching from fertilizer. Likewise, don't fertilize too late in the year, as this can slow regrowth the following spring. An application of iron can enhance spring green-up. Applying nitrogen on zoysia grass in early spring and late fall significantly increases the risk of large (brown) patch disease.
--
Use fertilizer that is 15-0-15 or 16-0-8 and has at least a 15-30% slow release, water insoluble nitrogen. Too much nitrogen (the first number in the above set of three numbers results in a variety of potential problems! Three to four applications per season should be enough. Avoid using weed/feed type of fertilizers.

[Paulz]

Thanks everyone. I have a feeling that TOTV is the best guide to transtioning into our village life.

[Phanatic Luvr]

I have read here comments from some posters that you need to cut your grass weekly or even one about every 5 days. I believe the original poster has zoysia grass. I have zoysia and cut every two weeks and in the winter, if I cut every 4 to 6 weeks, thats a lot. Some people commenting may have St. Augustine grass in the northern sections of TV's which does require more frequent cutting.

[CFrance]

Originally Posted by Phanatic Luvr

I have read here comments from some posters that you need to cut your grass weekly or even one about every 5 days. I believe the original poster has zoysia grass. I have zoysia and cut every two weeks and in the winter, if I cut every 4 to 6 weeks, thats a lot. Some people commenting may have St. Augustine grass in the northern sectlions of TV's which does require more frequent cutting.

I agree with Phanatic Lovr (although I am other side-of-the-state Pirates fan!) In the winter our zoysia gets cut once a month whether it needs it or not, which I think it could go longer. In the summer it's once a week. It's kept at 3" height and does well. When we used to go to MI for the summer, we kept a twice-a-week watering of 30 minutes, set to 1:00 a.m.