[Northerner52]

"Let the buyer beware". Recently purchased a car from a Ocala new car dealer and wanted to share my experience with the readers. I knew my trade in value before I went that I obtained on KBB.com.

The first offer on my trade was 11,000. I laughed it off. I was asked what I wanted, I asked 18,000. The came back at 13,000. I thanked them for their time and left. 9 AM the next morning I get a call from the manger offering me 15,500 or 40% more than the original offer.

I agreed to buy it but the negotiation was not over. The finance person tried to overcharge me on a financing rate. I balked, said I would use a local CU. Then he 'finds' a rate 2% lower than his first offer. I accept. Then he tries to sell me GAP insurance, the type that makes me whole of the insurance company pays me less that the loan value. Cost: $1,000, I say no, then he discounts it $300. No again. When I added the car to my insurance policy I asked if they had GAP and did buy to for $19. He didn't try to sell me extended warranties because the /like new' car was still under a factory warranty but I know he would have if it was out of warranty. I also noticed in their new car showroom they had a secondary window sticker of $2000 more than the factory one. Those are rip-offs too. The name of the dealer is not important and there are many that work this way. Buyer beware.

[mulligan]

Would have been a really helpful post if the dealer was named.

[drpepper]

Most all dealers work the same way. I was at a local Toyota dealer for an oil change. While there I talked to a salesman about a new Scion XB. He said that they advertise "NO" additional mark up ever because it's the right thing to do. I asked if they had a dock fee and he said yes it was $700. Seems to me that's a little deceptive. That would be additional mark up to me but after the fact instead of before. I worked in the new car field for many years so I knew the answer to my question ahead of time. I just wanted him to say it and see if he could keep a straight face.

[biker1]

As you know, it is all negotiable. Just because the numbers are on a piece of paper does not legitimize them or mean that you have to pay it. I think people sometimes forget that they are the ones with the money. My strategy is to research the car I need extensively, know what I am willing to pay out the door (in other words, here is the amount I will pay inclusive of everything including taxes), and tie up as much of the salesperson's time as is possible. I pay cash, but don't reveal that till we have an agreement on the price, and I don't trade-in cars (I sell them privately).

Originally Posted by drpepper

Most all dealers work the same way. I was at a local Toyota dealer for an oil change. While there I talked to a salesman about a new Scion XB. He said that they advertise "NO" additional mark up ever because it's the right thing to do. I asked if they had a dock fee and he said yes it was $700. Seems to me that's a little deceptive. That would be additional mark up to me but after the fact instead of before. I worked in the new car field for many years so I knew the answer to my question ahead of time. I just wanted him to say it and see if he could keep a straight face.

[biker1]

In my opinion, it doesn't matter who the dealer is. Pick out the car that you need and negotiate the price you will pay. If they won't meet your offer, leave and go elsewhere.

Originally Posted by mulligan

Would have been a really helpful post if the dealer was named.

[Bonnevie]

or hire "The Negotiator" a former car sales manager. His name is Bill Palli. website: Best Car For The Best Price Negotiator 352-750-0487. He did all my negotiations for me. They didn't even try most of the things mentioned by the OP. He got me much more for my trade and got the doc fee thrown out and other things.

[tag460]

If you are going to use a local credit union or bank for financing always get pre-approved before you walk through the door, this way you already know what your finance rate. Most dealers will add on the back end of there rate to make extra money. An example of this is, your rate is 5% for your financial institution, the dealer's rate is also 5% but they will add 3% and try to finance you at 8% which is legal.

[RickeyD]

Originally Posted by Bonnevie

or hire "The Negotiator" a former car sales manager. His name is Bill Palli. website: Best Car For The Best Price Negotiator 352-750-0487. He did all my negotiations for me. They didn't even try most of the things mentioned by the OP. He got me much more for my trade and got the doc fee thrown out and other things.

So, how can you really be sure he got you the best deal if you hadn't tried for yourself ?

[Bonnevie]

Originally Posted by RickeyD

So, how can you really be sure he got you the best deal if you hadn't tried for yourself ?

because I'm the type of person who when they see me coming they start planning their summer vacations. I did do my research, though, so I know it was a good deal.

[Buffalo Jim]

Originally Posted by Bonnevie

or hire "The Negotiator" a former car sales manager. His name is Bill Palli. website: Best Car For The Best Price Negotiator 352-750-0487. He did all my negotiations for me. They didn't even try most of the things mentioned by the OP. He got me much more for my trade and got the doc fee thrown out and other things.

Thanks for sharing I made a note of this fellow in my address book.
This is a great example of how this site can be helpful to fellow Villagers .

[Miles42]

Dealing with any car sales person is life's worse experience< I hate it and will leave in a heartbeat. At our age you would think they would skip the bull as we have heard it all by now.

[BobnBev]

Originally Posted by Northerner52

"Let the buyer beware". Recently purchased a car from a Ocala new car dealer and wanted to share my experience with the readers. I knew my trade in value before I went that I obtained on KBB.com.

The first offer on my trade was 11,000. I laughed it off. I was asked what I wanted, I asked 18,000. The came back at 13,000. I thanked them for their time and left. 9 AM the next morning I get a call from the manger offering me 15,500 or 40% more than the original offer.

I agreed to buy it but the negotiation was not over. The finance person tried to overcharge me on a financing rate. I balked, said I would use a local CU. Then he 'finds' a rate 2% lower than his first offer. I accept. Then he tries to sell me GAP insurance, the type that makes me whole of the insurance company pays me less that the loan value. Cost: $1,000, I say no, then he discounts it $300. No again. When I added the car to my insurance policy I asked if they had GAP and did buy to for $19. He didn't try to sell me extended warranties because the /like new' car was still under a factory warranty but I know he would have if it was out of warranty. I also noticed in their new car showroom they had a secondary window sticker of $2000 more than the factory one. Those are rip-offs too. The name of the dealer is not important and there are many that work this way. Buyer beware.

YOU are a very smart shopper.

[asianthree]

I love the ad for $, and when you ask what color that car is, there is none available at $$ but, there is one for $$$ in any color you want.

[flyerguy]

Originally Posted by asianthree

I love the ad for $, and when you ask what color that car is, there is none available at $$ but, there is one for $$$ in any color you want.

Yeah, that's the old Bait & Switch tactic. Most of the stealership ads are deceptive.

[biker1]

In almost all cases, you hold all the cards as they need to sell cars more than you need to buy one. Research and preparation are the key.

Originally Posted by flyerguy

Yeah, that's the old Bait & Switch tactic. Most of the stealership ads are deceptive.