[Newbeginnings]

i just attended a class at the Life Long Learning College on landscaping, it was thru the IFAS, the instructor was great he has a very good background, teaches at the University of Florida and does certifications. One of the first things he said was "don't plant Queen Palms here" we are in zone 9A and they will freeze out eventually. Also stated is that the landscaping rocks deprive the landscaping plants of nutrients and heat the ground too much, he suggested using an organic matter or pine straw. I don't have Queens but am interested in those that have them for more than 3 years, do they last here in your experience ? I see all kinds of them going up in the new landscaping around here as I live in the new section south of 466A and questioning the landscape companies selling these trees that are doomed. Sad to say I did put in rock, but I see it everywhere, and the most reputable landscape companies are putting it in.

[gustavo]

Originally Posted by djohnson

i just attended a class at the Life Long Learning College on landscaping, it was thru the IFAS, the instructor was great he has a very good background, teaches at the University of Florida and does certifications. One of the first things he said was "don't plant Queen Palms here" we are in zone 9A and they will freeze out eventually. Also stated is that the landscaping rocks deprive the landscaping plants of nutrients and heat the ground too much, he suggested using an organic matter or pine straw. I don't have Queens but am interested in those that have them for more than 3 years, do they last here in your experience ? I see all kinds of them going up in the new landscaping around here as I live in the new section south of 466A and questioning the landscape companies selling these trees that are doomed. Sad to say I did put in rock, but I see it everywhere, and the most reputable landscape companies are putting it in.

I agree with the advice for the palms, but the rock is great for low mtce and looks good. My plants don't look like they are deprived of nutrients so, just one data point.

[Bobcuse]

I have tried mulch, pine straw, bark nuggets and landscape rock in the past 10 years. I have now gone back to landscape rock but I pull the rock away from the base of plants and bushes to avoid the problem of overheating the soil above the plant roots during the summer season and have found this to be the best for me. Everyone has their own preferences and tastes, but I love the neat look of the rock and it is maintenance free. The other options all fade out in color and lose their good looks fairly quickly, but rocks always retain their neat aesthetic value. The other options also bring lots of ticks and spiders.

[bluedog103]

Originally Posted by djohnson

i just attended a class at the Life Long Learning College on landscaping, it was thru the IFAS, the instructor was great he has a very good background, teaches at the University of Florida and does certifications.

You would distrust information from an expert and come to TOTV for landscaping advice?

[Mikeod]

During the two winters we had where the temps dipped below freezing for several hours several times, I noticed the queen palms in the northern areas of TV showed more damage than those in southern villages. I live south of 466 and have 9 queen palms. I had 10 but lost one due to disease. My temps always seem higher than the official temp so maybe I'm in a microclimate that helps my palms survive.

As I look around my neighborhood, there are many queen palms and all are doing well. So, the extension advice may be technically correct, but may not apply in all situations.

As far as landscape rock, I have that too. The advice above to keep the rock away from the trunk of the trees and plants is accurate. The rocks can get hot enough in the summer to actually burn the stem/trunk of the plant.

[mickey100]

Our last few winters have been pretty mild. I remember 3 or 4 years ago, we had quite a few nights where the temps dipped into the 20's, and a few nights were the temps were in the teens. Some of the palms in our neighborhoods (near Sumter) were damaged severely. You might be able to avoid that problem if your plantings are in a microclimate, but I think you'd be taking a chance. I think I read about a new palm called a Mule palm, a hybrid that looks like a Queen but is more hardy. If I were planting palms, I'd take a look at different varieties than the Queens. The other thing I don't like about the Queens, is they grow very quickly, and very tall. In no time at all you'll be paying someone to come in every year and trim them for you, because you won't be able to do it yourself.

[pqrstar]

Here is a link to more information regarding Queen Palms.

http://collier.ifas.ufl.edu/CommHort...se__2___2_.pdf

[angiefox10]

Mulch is an important component of creating a Florida-friendly landscape. Imparting contrasting color to planting beds is sometimes the most important consideration for the homeowner, but there are other advantages.
Studies have confirmed that mulches prevent water loss through evaporation and help to buffer soil temperatures. Mulching the garden can inhibit weed germination or suppress weed growth. It should be noted that the words “inhibit” and “suppress” are not the same as ‘eliminate’. Weeds are a garden fact of life; seeds can be brought in by a variety of uncontrollable mechanisms such as birds, wind, or the bottom of a shoe. (For tips on helping keep the number of weeds down on your mulch, see the side story on this page.)
The most frequently asked question Extension receives about mulch is ‘Which is the best mulch to use?’ There is no definitive answer to this question, because as with plant material, it depends on the individual goal for the individual garden or landscape, and the homeowner’s preference.
The number one criteria for most homeowners is mulch that will keep the garden free of weeds, but since we’ve already established this as a moot point, let’s move on and look at the most popular types of mulch, how long it takes for them to settle, color retention, and their potential as food sources for insects, as indicated by University of Florida (UF) research.
Pine bark: Pine bark mulch is a forest industry by-product. The bark cannot be used in the manufacture of lumber or paper, so it is chopped into little pieces for use as mulch after it is stripped from the trees. It seems to be a favorite in northern landscapes, but several homeowners have reported it floating down the street during heavy rains. Location and specific application may be the key here.
Results from a UF study showed pine bark had one of the lowest ranks for settling, meaning that pine bark maintained a useful depth for almost two years. In addition, test results indicated pine bark mulch had the least color change, from reddish-brown or light brown to a dark reddish gray over a two-year period, as compared with other mulches.
Pine Straw: Pine straw can also be considered a by-product of the forestry industry, although somewhat indirect. Pine needles are harvested from the floor of plantations growing pines for lumber or paper production. There is some concern about loss of nutrients and organic matter from plantation soil when the needles are removed, but monitoring the frequency of removal and replacing lost nutrients can help to minimize these problems.
Although studies showed pine straw decreased to half its original depth during the first year, thus ranking lowest of the mulches tested for settling, many homeowners have indicated its decomposition added texture and nutrients to the soil. Another plus, pine straw rated high on the list of mulches with the least color change over time.
Cypress: Cypress mulch is made from Bald Cypress and Pond Cypress trees, both of which grow in Florida’s wetlands. Tests indicated a low settling rate and good color retention after two years. Unfortunately, approximately 60 percent of the mulch sold at retail garden centers is Cypress and many people consider it ‘native’ mulch. That may very well be but production of Cypress mulch contributes to the devastation of our ecosystem. Because the trees are harvested from our natural wetlands, using it in the landscape is not considered Florida-friendly.
Eucalyptus: Most Eucalyptus trees are native to Australia, and are grown on plantations in Florida for the express purpose of mulch production. Studies showed Eucalyptus had a moderate settling rate, meaning it lasts longer in the landscape than pine-straw, but not as long as pine bark or cypress. Eucalyptus is also one of the mulches that showed the least change in color after a two year period.
Melaleuca: Another Australian native, the Melaleuca invasion of Florida’s wetlands has prompted its popular use as mulch. The entire tree is harvested, chipped, and heated to kill the seeds, and sold as landscape mulch. Of the mulches tested, Melaleuca showed the least amount of settling after two years in the landscape, and retained its color fairly well over the same time period.
Red mulch: One of the most popular and least expensive, what’s known as red mulch is produced from hardwood forest scraps or small tree stems, or in some cases, from recycled, shredded waste wood. The dye used to produce the bright red color looks attractive when new. It provides a nice, though short-lived, contrast to green plants, as the color fades quickly in the sun and can leach quickly with applications of water (irrigation, rain).
In some areas, this particular mulch is available in blue, black, green, and brown. The origins and compositions of red mulch are not well defined and it was not included in the UF studies.
The six mulches discussed above will work well for most landscapes, but there is a wide variety of other interesting materials that may be used, depending on preference. Pea gravel, river pebbles, and pond pebbles represent ascending size order if rock suits a particular application. For a really special look, consider the sparkling effect of crushed and processed glass. Although not recommended for playgrounds, or walking paths, it is particularly eye-catching in small areas, such as around the base of a fountain, and is available in several colors. Visit Landscape Glass | Terrazzo Glass | Fireplace Glass | Aquarium Glass | Fire Pit Glass or try EnviroGlas for some interesting ideas.
So which is the best mulch? The one that best suits the individual application, of course.
___
Pre-emptive weed strikes for mulch
Even the deepest of mulch will eventually have some weeds growing through it. The best protection is to keep them from getting started, even before you lay down mulch. Here are ideas from various sources:
• Make sure the ground underneath your mulch is weed-free. Don’t expect a layer of mulch to kill what’s under it. If you are starting a bed and working in topsoil before you mulch, make sure whatever soil you buy is certified weed-free.
• Before adding the mulch, spray the ground that doesn’t have bedding plants with corn gluten (available at farm stores) or a commercially prepared pre-emergent, such as Preen ’n’ Green, for the prolific plant growth in the South.
• Cover the ground before you mulch. You may prefer a garden fabric, a tough, woven dark tarp that will eventually decompose but which limits weed germination to the mulched area. It also keeps weed roots from establishing any depth underground. An easy, low-cost alternative is to layer the area to be mulched with four sheets of newspaper. Do not use glossy-finish or magazine stock.
If weeds are already established in the area you’ve mulched, here are several suggestions for getting them out:
• Pull them out by the roots, but make sure you have all of the subterranean plant. This is especially important with weeds that propagate through underground runners, such as sedge and dollarweed.
• Pour boiling water on the weeds. This will kill many of them by cooking them. Those with the deepest roots may come back and require a second bath a month later.
• Spray a full-spectrum herbicide such as Roundup on the offending weeds. Be careful to spray when wind is low to avoid drift.
— Harriet Howard Heithaus
© 2008 Naples Daily News. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

[angiefox10]

I prefer rock... I like the way it looks... *smile*

[justjim]

Technically the "expert" is correct about the Queen Palms. But most are willing to take the risk----it could be years before we have the type of freeze that will kill your Queens. Rock is low maintenance and I'm all about low maintenance! This time we planted Sabals and Sylvester's----they are attractive, hearty and have rock around them.

[jimbo2012]

I met with the 2 head extension agents last week.

They were very opposed to Queens, they are one of the least expensive so they sell good.

But you can get Sabal, the FL state palm, for about the same money, both are about $100-125 each.

If you listen to their reasoning again t rocks it makes perfect sense.

I was doing rock but now I'm not.

If you want get their 115 page book it's free, it will teach you when speaking landscapers who knows what they are talking about.

[jimbo2012]

Originally Posted by angiefox10

I prefer rock... I like the way it looks... *smile*

No surprise there

[skyc6]

Originally Posted by jimbo2012

No surprise there

Having seen Angie's landscaping, I will agree with Jimbo that her lawn and landscaping is absolutely beautiful! It is professional and has a totally tropical feel to it. Her rock edges are really a lovely final touch.

[Newbeginnings]

Originally Posted by bluedog103

You would distrust information from an expert and come to TOTV for landscaping advice?

I was interested in who had Palms that lasted longer than 3 years here, that's all, and if the rock did impact those plants that have been established for a long time here. I am new so just asking for more information from the group on TOTV.

[Bogie Shooter]

Originally Posted by djohnson

I was interested in who had Palms that lasted longer than 3 years here, that's all, and if the rock did impact those plants that have been established for a long time here. I am new so just asking for more information from the group on TOTV.

You really don't have to explain why you posted, especially to a Jets fan. They are so frustrated.