[Hyacinth Bucket]

We recently returned from a cruise from Valpariso to Buenos Aires on Oceania lines.

A JOURNEY OF 4,452 NAUTICAL MILES LONGEST JOURNEY WE HAVE EVER TAKEN
SEEING THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE VIA INSIGNIA, OCEANIC CRUISE LINE
OUR JOURNEY WILL START IN VALPARISO, CHILE GO AS FAR SOUTH AS CAPE HORN
END IN BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

From the desk of Travelling with Sue ...

Jan. 7th We left for the airport about midnight and our flight departed at 5:30 a.m., meaning that by the time we left we had been awake for about 24 hours. Needless to say, we could not wait to board the plane so that we could at least relax and hopefully sleep, which in the end we did—for most of the flight to Panama. Our flights were uneventful. We were upgraded to business class from New York to Panama City, Panama, which was lovely, and we fell asleep immediately. We sat in coach from Panama City to Santiago.

The hotel limo was not waiting for us when we arrived in Santiago; the cost for two colleagues and myself via easily arranged van to the hotel was slightly less than the limo would have been. Though he spoke no English and one of my colleagues translated, the driver was quite knowledgeable and gave us a brief tour of Santiago on the way to the hotel.

We were all very pleased with our hotel rooms. We were on the 20th floor in a corner room suite with fabulous views in two directions. We could see the snow-covered Andes and other mountains from our room. At night we could see the sunset and the setting sun creating wonderful shadows on the high-rise buildings and the Andes. We then watched the city lights come on. At night the city was ablaze with lights; it felt like the city was alive with action and romance. There were many red lights that were continually flashing; we were unable to find out why.

Prior to leaving home, I had arranged for a private guide and driver for touring in Santiago. By sharing arrangements for touring like this with a group of at least four, we have more space in a larger vehicle while sharing the cost of the guide and driver, compared to taking a bus tour. What we like about this arrangement it gives us the opportunity to change our plans. Seems like we usually change our plans; it can be for a street market we find and want to look around, a church that looks interesting, or a central square.

On January 8th we met our tour guide Carlos and driver Johann (whose grandfather was one of countless German settlers in Chile, accounting for his grandson’s having a German given name). I had arranged for a tour of small villages in the Andes and for one of our colleagues to take a guided hike in the Andes.

One of our first stops was in the little village of San Juan de Miapo. The classic cathedral found most often in the town square of Hispanic towns and cities was small, quite old, and built primarily of wood. Apparently wood structures hold up better in the earthquakes that periodically strike this region. Particularly interesting were two statues in this square—that of Bernardo O’Higgins, who had been the leader of the independence movement in Chile in the early part of the nineteenth century—and that of his father who had been the crown-appointed governor of Chile! You may recall him as Bernard, not Bernardo O’Higgins.

Our hiking colleague was dropped off at a private resort, Cascada Adventura Limitada, San Jose de Maipo, phone 861 13 03. He reported that he had a fantastic time hiking in the Andes. His group consisted of the guide, a family of three from Tennessee, a young couple from Brazil, plus himself. First the guide presented a narrative of the flora and fauna of where they would be hiking. At the same time he was telling them what they would observe, he informed the group which plants were indigenous and which were not, and where possible he showed examples of the plants.

While he was hiking and exploring the Andes, we visited a small family-run winery called Los Nietos (“The Grandchildren”). The winery looked like it had been there forever. It was made of stone, with a stone floor. The woman who served us appeared to be in her 80s. This winery made wine not only from grapes but from cherries, berries, walnuts, and almonds. The fruits and nuts for the wine grew on the property. As we entered the winery we walked under walnut and almond trees. In the wine tasting area were numerous enormous old oak cask—about six feet in diameter—filled with wine. We had not planned to buy anything, but after tasting the wines, we purchased every one that we had tried. I guess I should mention that the alcohol content was 25% and the prices were extremely reasonable, averaging the equivalent of about $3/bottle.

After we picked up our hiking colleague, we had lunch in a local restaurant in the area. A musician and dancers provided regional entertainmen. We ordered pork pulpa, not knowing what it was; English translation – pork chop. All in all we had a very pleasant time.

In the evening we crashed. We were very tired and the beds were unbelievably comfortable. We all agreed that it had been a wonderful day.

On Jan. 9th we took a city tour with Carlos, the same guide. We each had a place we wanted to visit. Our tour guide and driver took us to the city’s main square with the main cathedral. We went into the cathedral and the first thing we noted was how well maintained the oil paintings were. It reminded us of when we were in Quito and the church did not have the monies to restore the old paintings. The women’s chapel was painted in some of the softest pastel hues I have seen in a long time. This created a warm, welcoming feeling when one entered. It felt as though your troubles would be lifted from your shoulders and the pain in your heart would be eased.

Next we went to the post office. Outside the post office was a vendor selling an extensive assortment of post cards. The presidential palace and adjoining government buildings showed remnants from a military uprising some 35 years earlier; you could still see where the patchwork-covered bullet holes. There were also areas where you could still see the actual bullet holes. The Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino (the Chilean Museum of Precolumbian Art), had numerous artifacts. We find museums pertaining to the original peoples from an area quite interesting, and this one was no exception. Through their pottery, utensils and other items you learn how the people lived. By the designs on these items you could see what was important to them.

From there we went to the museum that highlighted sex and power in the pre-Columbian Moche world. In this museum we learned how sex and power were used by the Moche. Inside the museum was an extensive exhibit of artifacts depicting Moche sex, power, and sacrifice—clearly well-designed galleries and exhibits with descriptions and information in English as well as, of course, in Spanish. This was the first time any of us had been to a museum depicting how sex, power, and sacrifice were used to control the people. From there we went to the Mercado Central (Central Market); and a local seafood restaurant for lunch that resulted in mixed reviews. The central market was a small one, with fewer vendors than we were hoping to see.

Prior to today’s outing we all talked about going into the tourist areas and reminded each other about the need to be vigilant about petty crime. We agreed that we would all be aware of our surroundings and who was around each one of us. This was no different, from what I always remind all of you when you travel. Carlos also advised us to be very conscious of the possibility of petty crimes, notably pickpocketing, in the crowded downtown streets—a doubtless important warning. Both guide and driver Johann were quite protective of us, and when they noticed particular situations that had the potential to be unsafe for us, they immediately stepped in.

We were looking at scenic postcards of the Santiago and areas we were going to, and if it hadn’t been for Carlos, one of our group could have lost a wallet. Carlos pointed out who the potential pickpocket was, and immediately when this young person was identified to us, he was aware of the warning and left. There was also a well-dressed man and woman who casually surrounded one of the men, also looking at postcards. Once again Carlos intervened by placing himself between the couple and one of the men in our group.

We had gotten this same warning in other major city downtown areas, so it was not unique by any means, but our being made even more conscious certainly showed again the value of having a private guide. We also realized we were as susceptible as anyone else in letting down our guard. Hopefully, we will be more aware in the future.

That evening two of my colleagues went for a walk in the neighborhood (mixed commercial and residential) around the hotel. They felt very safe in this part of the city and fell in love with Santiago. They experienced it as a clean and vibrant city, very green with far more parks than in other comparably sized cities, with friendly people, in which they felt safe. They particularly enjoyed the warm breeze that was blowing, knowing that back home they would have been experiencing a cold wind. . . .

[784caroline]

WOW this was quite an adventure...how long did this trip take! I see this is part 1 and it only covers 2 days. This obviously was an article wirtten for a travel section or magazine....are you a professional or free lance travel writer?

Look forward to reading about the rest of your journey and your impressions about Oceanic Cruise Line.

[Hyacinth Bucket]

Hi, to answer your questions. I am a Travel Agent and I keep a diary of some of the places we travel to where my clients are interested in going to. I then send it to them.

I have only positive things to say about the cruise and the ship. Please let me know what you want to know about the cruise line and I will answer you. Prior to our last journey that was the smallest ship we have ever been on.

We just returned from a river cruise in France and there were approximately 130 passengers on board. We went on one of Uniworld's newer boats.

Will post more of the diary tonight.

Glad you enjoyed what you have read so far.

HB