Cracks in lanai ceiling, Sheetrock.

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Old 01-27-2018, 10:16 AM
upstate upstate is offline
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Default Cracks in lanai ceiling, Sheetrock.

Our CYV is seven years old, during that time we have had the one crack repaired, while having the house painted. Since then, the crack has reappeared along with a second one. I noticed on some of the new villas the ceiling on the lanai has a white soffit type of look, not sure if it's wood or vinyl. I asked the salesperson and he didn't know that it was even there. This appears to be a issue and I took photos and sent them to the POA with no reply. Has anyone come up with permanent fix for this, I don't want to get it repaired and the cracks to reappear once more. Any info would be appreciated, thank you.
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Old 01-27-2018, 10:36 AM
Jima64 Jima64 is offline
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Best way I saw them repaired was to make a grove along the crack to widen it and then treat it like a normal sheetrock joint.
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Old 01-27-2018, 12:06 PM
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Join the crowd. Had it repaired once by TV Lanai & Garage. This time when I painted I did it myself. So far so good. There is a long thread on TOTV about it. Bottom line not all edges have a nailer under them. My guess is after this cold weather there will be a lot more ceiling cracks when the heat returns.
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Old 01-27-2018, 01:12 PM
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Join the crowd. Had it repaired once by TV Lanai & Garage. This time when I painted I did it myself. So far so good. There is a long thread on TOTV about it. Bottom line not all edges have a nailer under them. My guess is after this cold weather there will be a lot more ceiling cracks when the heat returns.
This is exactly the same problem we have. I have not done any repairs yet, waiting to see if anything comes of the discussion of the POA with the developer. Also, there was at least on post with photos that showed NO nailers (or rafters) along one of the long seams in the center of the lanai.
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Old 01-27-2018, 02:19 PM
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My garage seam is open front to back. No nailer present at all !
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Old 01-27-2018, 02:47 PM
HiHoSteveO HiHoSteveO is offline
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Default Cracked Lanai ceiling

Most of my garage seams were split but repaired at one year warranty. Still holding.
(UPDATE: Hadn't actually checked in a while. Repairs not holding at garage ceiling either, re-cracking at repaired areas and unfixed areas are continuing along straight line to the wall.)

That's not the case with the lanai cracks repaired at same time. Cracks opened again after a few months. Hate to spend the money to have repaired again and again.

Last spoke with warranty yesterday. They had no fix to offer. Only the name of original drywaller.

Have reported info to POA as requested by them.
The last "Cracked Ceiling Update" that I've seen is in the December 2017 POA Bulletin on Page 2.

http://www.poa4us.org/bulletins_files/bulletin201712.pdf


Last edited by HiHoSteveO; 01-28-2018 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 01-27-2018, 05:15 PM
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Eight out of ten houses (non confirmed survey I:E. gut feel) I've been in south of 466 have cracks in the lanai ceiling.
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Old 01-27-2018, 06:32 PM
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The Florida outdoor environment is not the suitable atmosphere for sheet rock durability.
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:41 PM
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The Florida outdoor environment is not the suitable atmosphere for sheet rock durability.


No environment anywhere will drywall not split at it’s seam if it’s not nailed to anything.


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Old 01-27-2018, 10:26 PM
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You can use 1x3 wood or poly rvery 4ft to cover each seam. Or if you want to spend the money you can get 4x8 poly beed board sheets. Looks real nice.
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by billethkid View Post
The Florida outdoor environment is not the suitable atmosphere for sheet rock durability.
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:44 AM
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requires to get in the attic and take 1 by 3 or 4 by 1/2 thick with locktite #3 in a chalk tub and glue the poly board along the seam.
Let it dry for a week, if you want also put some 2" by 4" across the poly screwed to the adjacent trusses ever 4 feet and then screw through the poly below through the drywall into the poly and 2 X 4.
This will reduce the expansion and contraction of the drywall during temperature change.
When doing a repair remove the tape on the seam and reuse a mess tape with a dura-bond and drywall mixture for strength. Then re-stipple and paint.
This is alot of work but will hold up, three years now and still ok.
Bottom line is you don't put a seam over a void with no 2 by 4 to screw to.
More shortcuts by the villages and they need to stand behind there screw-ups.
I believe when the lawsuits start to out-way the repairs they will start to do the right thing. No different than the Copper a/c lines underground that leaked due to Installing them underground. Villages had to go back ten years and more to repair these homes due to a class-action lawsuit. Some of the failures also has come from recycled products with impurity's in them.
Just some FYI's for DIYers
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chellybean View Post
requires to get in the attic and take 1 by 3 or 4 by 1/2 thick with locktite #3 in a chalk tub and glue the poly board along the seam.
Let it dry for a week, if you want also put some 2" by 4" across the poly screwed to the adjacent trusses ever 4 feet and then screw through the poly below through the drywall into the poly and 2 X 4.
This will reduce the expansion and contraction of the drywall during temperature change.
When doing a repair remove the tape on the seam and reuse a mess tape with a dura-bond and drywall mixture for strength. Then re-stipple and paint.
This is alot of work but will hold up, three years now and still ok.
Bottom line is you don't put a seam over a void with no 2 by 4 to screw to.
More shortcuts by the villages and they need to stand behind there screw-ups.
I believe when the lawsuits start to out-way the repairs they will start to do the right thing. No different than the Copper a/c lines underground that leaked due to Installing them underground. Villages had to go back ten years and more to repair these homes due to a class-action lawsuit. Some of the failures also has come from recycled products with impurity's in them.
Just some FYI's for DIYers
Very interesting - seams in the middle of no where (and outside). I wonder if this was standard practice all along or was incorporated at a particular point in time. My casual observation is this is more prominent in homes south of 466. Of course the lanais also seem to have grown bigger south of 466.
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:20 AM
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a lot of the problems are the speed that the contractors are forced to push out these homes.
2013 they were building homes in the range of 350 to 400 a month and they started pouring concrete at 1:30 am in the morning to keep up.
as contractors found ways of saving time to keep up, it was not a known practice of the Villages building methods, but i can guaranty it has been corrected now with all the complaints.
Time will tell what will happen with the repairs and if the villages makes it right!
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chellybean View Post
a lot of the problems are the speed that the contractors are forced to push out these homes.
2013 they were building homes in the range of 350 to 400 a month and they started pouring concrete at 1:30 am in the morning to keep up.
as contractors found ways of saving time to keep up, it was not a known practice of the Villages building methods, but i can guaranty it has been corrected now with all the complaints.
Time will tell what will happen with the repairs and if the villages makes it right!
Almost everyone has a problem with lanai ceilings separating and I am interested to see the solution.

I do not think that the speed of homes being built has changed at all over time. They have a well ordered plan and no sub is kept if they do NOT measure up.

The POA has changed a lot for the better in the last couple of years in my opinion, losing what was to me a combative stance against the developer. It is also my opinion that some disgruntled realtors who could not sell new homes here influenced some of the negative attitude shown in the newsletter.
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Last edited by graciegirl; 01-28-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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