[cathell62]

Call The Villages construction and home warranty 352-753-6222. Not 100% sure on the middle three numbers. They can give you quality referrals that they use in the villages. You really need to be careful that you don't get these companies that get you sucked into an assignment of benefits to put against your insurance company. They will make a prefab date of loss based on a storm guidelines that is legal. However the illegal part is that they have to get you to commit to one of the storms that would qualify. The assignment of benefits or aob as they're known will lock you into a contract with the roofer. Whether they can get a claim approved by the insurance companies you gave them your rights to act on your behalf and you get locked into having to pay the bill if the claim is denied by the insurance company. This is why you see so many new roofs in The Villages. Homeowners don't realize that falsifying a date is a crime and the roofer will tell you otherwise.

QUOTE=cordenny;1950104]Will be getting estimates on a new roof. Our house is 1,392 sq. ft. (Gable Roof). Would appreciate if you would share who you used and any info on what I should look for when deciding who to go with. Thanks so much![/QUOTE]

[G.R.I.T.S.]

Originally Posted by cordenny

Will be getting estimates on a new roof. Our house is 1,392 sq. ft. (Gable Roof). Would appreciate if you would share who you used and any info on what I should look for when deciding who to go with. Thanks so much!

A friend paid $12,000 for an Amarillo with sunroom and decking work. Batterbee.

[Papa Jim]

$12,300 for an Amarillo with sunroom, yesterday. Batterbee

[NoMo50]

Wait for a hailstorm. Let your insurance company handle it.

[mimlof]

Covenant Roofing. Jared at 407-450-1544. Tell him I referred you. Everyone I know that used this company was very satisfied. Michele on Shelby Street.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by J1ceasar

Ouch I'm going to wait as long as possible, if it ain't leaking the money is not coming out of the bank account

Mine stained, I think I try to get new roof, course I expect insurance to pay for it.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by NoMo50

Wait for a hailstorm. Let your insurance company handle it.

Yes, pea size hail really does damage.

[swiley]

I had a roof put on a 1188 sq ft patio villa with a simple gable roof last month by McGinnis Roofing. The cost was $6400.00

[rrb48310]

New roof installed by McGinnis February 2020, @1600 sq ft $8760. Started around 6:30am, completely done, cleaned up and gone by 2:30pm.

[GrumpyOldMan]

I don't know, my last "new roof" came with a house attached...


Sorry, I couldn't resist... LOL

[Byte1]

Bowles gave me the most reasonable estimate out of three bidders. I paid $9700 for architectural shingles on my designer home. They were very good about detail and did an excellent job. That was about two years ago. The other two companies wanted $16,000 to $1800+. I think I am the only resident in my neighborhood that paid out of my pocket for a new roof. Everyone else got their home owners insurance to pay. My insurance went up about $400 a year, this year.

[charlieo1126@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

Yes, pea size hail really does damage.

enough to not have to experienced a major hailstorm. I was in one in Orlando many years ago it created terrible damage to roofs and cars , mine was considered totaled because it was 4 years old and cost to much to fix , you still ran into people years later that we’re driving cars with lots of little dents

[Ben Franklin]

A friend just used Batterbee, and I believe it cost him $12,000 for a 1600 sq ft house.

[conman5652@aol.com]

Retired contractor. Total square of shingles 14. Cost of labor is paid in squares
$350 to 450 per square. That includes drip edge felt and ridge vent.
Tear off included in labor
Cost of dumbest and dump fees 500 to 700.
The best thing todo is see what current materials cost is at Home Depot for on square. I know materials has arisen alot

[ProfessorDave]

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.