[idlewild]

We're looking to install a mini-split heat pump in our enclosed lanai here in The Villages and would appreciate input, especially from current/former HVAC professionals or homeowners with experience with these brands.

Our Lanai:
* Approximately 309 sq. ft., south-facing, with considerable direct afternoon sun.
* Enclosed with single-pane glass (not insulated or low-E).
* Currently no meaningful ceiling insulation; planning to add **R-30 blown-in insulation** as part of the project.
* Gets extremely hot and muggy, particularly from April through October, with August being brutal.
* We want reliable cooling and, equally importantly, good humidity control without excessive cycling or energy consumption.

We've received two substantially different recommendations from established local HVAC contractors.

Contractor A — Mitsubishi 12K
Recommended a 12,000 BTU Mitsubishi mini-split with two equipment options:

-Mitsubishi WX12 (MSZ-WX12NL / MUZ-WX12NL): 18 SEER2 — $6,705 installed
-Mitsubishi GX12 (MSZ-GX12NL / MUZ-GX12NL): 25.6 SEER2 — $8,005 installed

Both prices include approximately $415 for R-30 blown-in ceiling insulation, the mini-split installation, and a new dedicated electrical circuit. I still need to confirm permitting and clarify some conflicting warranty details in the written estimate.

Their load calculations:
The salesperson provided two screenshots from a load-calculation tool labeled "EDS Load Calculator," showing:

- Existing ceiling (R-1): 27,295 BTU/h cooling load (25,911 sensible + 1,385 latent)
- After R-30 insulation: 10,210 BTU/h cooling load (8,825 sensible + 1,385 latent)

Based on the insulated calculation, they recommended a 12K unit.

I don't know whether this represents a complete Manual J calculation or a simplified estimate. A reduction of approximately 17,085 BTU/h from ceiling insulation alone seems a bit too...substantial. Does that seem reasonable, particularly with our south-facing single-pane glass? I'm curious whether the calculation adequately accounts for the glass area, solar heat gain, and other conditions.

Contractor B — Lennox/Samsung 18K
Recommended an 18,000 BTU Lennox mini-split powered by Samsung:

- Indoor model: MWHD018S6-1P
- Outdoor model: MWHD018S6S-1P
- 21.5 SEER2 / 12.85 EER2
- Inverter-driven, R-32 refrigerant, built-in Wi-Fi and Dry mode
- 10-year parts warranty, 10-year compressor warranty, and 2-year service agreement (labor warranty coverage still needs clarification)

Quote: $5,745 installed, including electrical work, permit, taxes, new condenser pad, hurricane tie-downs, surge protector, condensate drain, and safety float switch. R-30 ceiling insulation is not included and is estimated separately at approximately $900.

* Total with insulation: approximately $6,645. *

This representative felt that 18K was necessary, primarily because of the single-pane glass, southern exposure, and heat/humidity conditions. He also inspected the electrical routing, condenser placement, and possible code/egress issues involving nearby windows. He offered to quote Mitsubishi as well, but estimated a comparable GX system would cost approximately $1,500 more and didn't feel the additional expense was justified.

Here's Our Dilemma

We have two established local contractors recommending **12K versus 18K** for the same 309-square-foot room, at almost identical overall project prices when insulation is included.

I'm particularly interested in feedback on:

1. Sizing and humidity control: Is 18K excessive for a 309-square-foot enclosed lanai, even with substantial south-facing single-pane glass? Or would 12K struggle on a sunny August afternoon? Since these are inverter systems, how important is their minimum cooling capacity in controlling humidity without short-cycling? Would a 15K unit be a better compromise?

2. Load calculations: Does a drop from approximately 27,300 to 10,200 BTU/h simply by adding R-30 ceiling insulation seem plausible? Would you recommend a more detailed Manual J calculation before selecting equipment?

3. Long-term reliability and brand value: Mitsubishi has an established reputation in mini-splits, and I understand The Villages has used Mitsubishi equipment extensively. Does anyone have experience with the newer Lennox/Samsung mini-splits, especially their longevity, compressor or control-board failures, parts availability, and local service support? I realize Samsung's somewhat poor reputation in other appliance categories isn't necessarily representative of its HVAC equipment, so I'm particularly interested in firsthand experiences rather than assumptions.

I like features such as built-in Wi-Fi, adjustable airflow, and intelligent humidity-control modes, but reliability and serviceability are much more important to me than extra features.

Is Mitsubishi worth the premium? If the equipment is correctly sized and installed, would you pay approximately $1,500 more for Mitsubishi GX over the Lennox/Samsung? Why or why not?

4. Other manufacturers: Should we also consider Daikin, Fujitsu, Carrier, or another brand with good local service and parts support?

5. Installation considerations: Any advice on condenser placement, proper refrigerant-line installation, condensate drainage, warranty coverage (especially labor), or permitting issues specific to enclosed lanais in The Villages? The second contractor seemed particularly attentive to the electrical routing, outdoor unit location, and potential egress issues.

We're less interested in saving $2,000 today than in getting a system that cools effectively in August, controls humidity during milder weather, and provides 10–15+ years of dependable service.

I'd especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has installed, serviced, or owned these particular Mitsubishi or Samsung/Lennox systems.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

[BrianL99]

Originally Posted by idlewild

We're looking to install a mini-split heat pump in our enclosed lanai here in The Villages and would appreciate input, especially from current/former HVAC professionals or homeowners with experience with these brands.


Contractor A — Mitsubishi 12K
Recommended a 12,000 BTU Mitsubishi mini-split with two equipment options:

-Mitsubishi WX12 (MSZ-WX12NL / MUZ-WX12NL): 18 SEER2 — $6,705 installed
-Mitsubishi GX12 (MSZ-GX12NL / MUZ-GX12NL): 25.6 SEER2 — $8,005 installed


Contractor B — Lennox/Samsung 18K
Recommended an 18,000 BTU Lennox mini-split powered by Samsung:

I'd especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has installed, serviced, or owned these particular Mitsubishi or Samsung/Lennox systems.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

I wouldn't touch a Samsung unit, if it was free. Mitsubishi or Fujitsu only for a mini-split in my experience. For a single zone, Fujitsu will save you money ... for a multi-zone, Mitsubishi is probably the way to go.

The load calculations should be simply and straight-forward and most everyone is using the same software, so I'm not sure why you ended up with such a variance. I only do commercial applications, so I don't know anything about loading in a small, residential space, only to caution you about get an over-sized unit. Over-sizing in HVAC is worse than under-sizing. You need the right load rating for the application, as you seemed to have figured out.

[villagetinker]

OP, before you do anything, I am assuming you are in Sumter county, and there are some restrictions on "air conditioning" enclosed lanais. As far as I know ONLY the Mitsubishi units are approved for humidity control, and unless your enclosed lanai was class 4 or 5 it cannot be "air conditioned" under current permits. Our project was stopped a couple of years ago from be air conditioned, so we are now going with the Mitsubishi mini split dehumidifier unit. PS our enclosure is just under 400 square feet and an 18,000 BTU unit is fine.

[retiredguy123]

I would go with the larger unit. These rooms need a lot of cooling capacity. And, you definitely want to install as much ceiling insulation as you can.

[idlewild]

Originally Posted by BrianL99

I wouldn't touch a Samsung unit, if it was free. Mitsubishi or Fujitsu only for a mini-split in my experience. For a single zone, Fujitsu will save you money ... for a multi-zone, Mitsubishi is probably the way to go..

Thanks so much. This is exactly what I was thinking, afraid of, and asked Contractor B who was convinced Samsung/Lennox was just as good, if not better. It surprised me since Contractor B is a well-known Villages contractor - perhaps they should be called Contractor “De.”

Why do you avoid Samsung in your experience? And this is mini-splits, not their home appliances, correct?

I found this HACRated site that seems to agree with you. Here’s their take on the 18k BTU Samsung: 21.5 SEER2

Lennox MWMD018S6-1P: 21.0 SEER2, 9.7 HSPF2, 18,000 BTU Mini-Split

And the 12k BTU 25.6 SEER2 Mitsubishi::

Mitsubishi Electric MUZ-GX12NL Specs: 25.6 SEER2, 10.7 HSPF2

Finally, why would Fujitsu save money? Is it initial installation cost, cooling efficiency, or both?

[idlewild]

Originally Posted by villagetinker

OP, before you do anything, I am assuming you are in Sumter county, and there are some restrictions on "air conditioning" enclosed lanais. As far as I know ONLY the Mitsubishi units are approved for humidity control, and unless your enclosed lanai was class 4 or 5 it cannot be "air conditioned" under current permits. Our project was stopped a couple of years ago from be air conditioned, so we are now going with the Mitsubishi mini split dehumidifier unit. PS our enclosure is just under 400 square feet and an 18,000 BTU unit is fine.

Thank you. I was only aware that the county checks to permitting for verbiage (“dehumidification” vs. “air conditioning”) and to see if the lanai floor is leveled to your home, but only for tax purposes. What brand unit were you trying to install previously and did your permit specify dehumidification initially? I wonder if this changed since your installation — and if it will change again after the upcoming vote!

This new Samsung/Lennox features “intelligent humidity-control modes” and we’ve had two neighbors use this same contractor to install them and they seem happy with it.

[BrianL99]

Originally Posted by idlewild

Thanks so much. This is exactly what I was thinking, afraid of, and asked Contractor B who was convinced Samsung/Lennox was just as good, if not better. It surprised me since Contractor B is a well-known Villages contractor - perhaps they should be called Contractor “De.”

Why do you avoid Samsung in your experience? And this is mini-splits, not their home appliances, correct?

I found this HACRated site that seems to agree with you. Here’s their take on the 18k BTU Samsung: 21.5 SEER2

Lennox MWMD018S6-1P: 21.0 SEER2, 9.7 HSPF2, 18,000 BTU Mini-Split

And the 12k BTU 25.6 SEER2 Mitsubishi::

Mitsubishi Electric MUZ-GX12NL Specs: 25.6 SEER2, 10.7 HSPF2

Finally, why would Fujitsu save money? Is it initial installation cost, cooling efficiency, or both?

Fujitsu usually offers better efficiency for the money and the unit is not gummed up with electronics, like Samsung.

Mitsubishi has always been the gold standard in this type of system and as such, can be a little pricy ... it's sort of little like the old "Hertz vs Avis" thing ... Fujitsu tries harder. I had 2 Mitsubishi units in home in New England.

I had a Fujitsu unit in house in NH and it was a great unit and when it needed repair after about 10 years, it was simple, reasonable & efficient to replace the part it needed.

I've used both Fujitsu & Mitsubishi in at least 10 commercial applications and never a problem with either.

I have not owned a Samsung unit, based on my experience with Samsung appliances. Their business model (IMO) is to provide a lot of bells & whistles, while using glitchy electronics to power them ... great until they stop working.

[Footer]

We have 2 recently installed Gree units from Chuck Farrell in our uninsulated 1300 ft2 RV garage - each 2.5 ton (30,000 btu). The fans run continuously, don't draw much power, but the condenser units outside start and stop as needed, just like your house unit. $9200 for 2. It's permitted as a dehumidifier. I have a 3 ton Mitsubishi in my 600 ft2 sunroom with no insulation and glass walls and that's not nearly enough. That's permitted as AC so the sunroom counts as house square feet for tax purposes.

[jimkerr]

Stay away from Samsung. Unless you don’t mind constant repairs and misery. Mitsubishi is the way to go.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Footer

We have 2 recently installed Gree units from Chuck Farrell in our uninsulated 1300 ft2 RV garage - each 2.5 ton (30,000 btu). The fans run continuously, don't draw much power, but the condenser units outside start and stop as needed, just like your house unit. $9200 for 2. It's permitted as a dehumidifier. I have a 3 ton Mitsubishi in my 600 ft2 sunroom with no insulation and glass walls and that's not nearly enough. That's permitted as AC so the sunroom counts as house square feet for tax purposes.

That is why square footage is not a good way to calculate the cooling capacity needed for a room that has single pane windows and inadequate ceiling insulation. These rooms leak too much energy to use a square footage calculation. Also, you can add blown in insulation above an uninsulated lanai ceiling, but you will not get a vapor barrier which you normally get directly above the ceiling when you install blanket insulation with new construction.

[Southwest737]

DeSantis installed Lennox mini split in our lanai and garage just over a year ago. Used em daily throughout the summer. Worked great.

[dsattazahn]

Originally Posted by idlewild

We're looking to install a mini-split heat pump in our enclosed lanai here in The Villages and would appreciate input, especially from current/former HVAC professionals or homeowners with experience with these brands.

Our Lanai:
* Approximately 309 sq. ft., south-facing, with considerable direct afternoon sun.
* Enclosed with single-pane glass (not insulated or low-E).
* Currently no meaningful ceiling insulation; planning to add **R-30 blown-in insulation** as part of the project.
* Gets extremely hot and muggy, particularly from April through October, with August being brutal.
* We want reliable cooling and, equally importantly, good humidity control without excessive cycling or energy consumption.

We've received two substantially different recommendations from established local HVAC contractors.

Contractor A — Mitsubishi 12K
Recommended a 12,000 BTU Mitsubishi mini-split with two equipment options:

-Mitsubishi WX12 (MSZ-WX12NL / MUZ-WX12NL): 18 SEER2 — $6,705 installed
-Mitsubishi GX12 (MSZ-GX12NL / MUZ-GX12NL): 25.6 SEER2 — $8,005 installed

Both prices include approximately $415 for R-30 blown-in ceiling insulation, the mini-split installation, and a new dedicated electrical circuit. I still need to confirm permitting and clarify some conflicting warranty details in the written estimate.

Their load calculations:
The salesperson provided two screenshots from a load-calculation tool labeled "EDS Load Calculator," showing:

- Existing ceiling (R-1): 27,295 BTU/h cooling load (25,911 sensible + 1,385 latent)
- After R-30 insulation: 10,210 BTU/h cooling load (8,825 sensible + 1,385 latent)

Based on the insulated calculation, they recommended a 12K unit.

I don't know whether this represents a complete Manual J calculation or a simplified estimate. A reduction of approximately 17,085 BTU/h from ceiling insulation alone seems a bit too...substantial. Does that seem reasonable, particularly with our south-facing single-pane glass? I'm curious whether the calculation adequately accounts for the glass area, solar heat gain, and other conditions.

Contractor B — Lennox/Samsung 18K
Recommended an 18,000 BTU Lennox mini-split powered by Samsung:

- Indoor model: MWHD018S6-1P
- Outdoor model: MWHD018S6S-1P
- 21.5 SEER2 / 12.85 EER2
- Inverter-driven, R-32 refrigerant, built-in Wi-Fi and Dry mode
- 10-year parts warranty, 10-year compressor warranty, and 2-year service agreement (labor warranty coverage still needs clarification)

Quote: $5,745 installed, including electrical work, permit, taxes, new condenser pad, hurricane tie-downs, surge protector, condensate drain, and safety float switch. R-30 ceiling insulation is not included and is estimated separately at approximately $900.

* Total with insulation: approximately $6,645. *

This representative felt that 18K was necessary, primarily because of the single-pane glass, southern exposure, and heat/humidity conditions. He also inspected the electrical routing, condenser placement, and possible code/egress issues involving nearby windows. He offered to quote Mitsubishi as well, but estimated a comparable GX system would cost approximately $1,500 more and didn't feel the additional expense was justified.

Here's Our Dilemma

We have two established local contractors recommending **12K versus 18K** for the same 309-square-foot room, at almost identical overall project prices when insulation is included.

I'm particularly interested in feedback on:

1. Sizing and humidity control: Is 18K excessive for a 309-square-foot enclosed lanai, even with substantial south-facing single-pane glass? Or would 12K struggle on a sunny August afternoon? Since these are inverter systems, how important is their minimum cooling capacity in controlling humidity without short-cycling? Would a 15K unit be a better compromise?

2. Load calculations: Does a drop from approximately 27,300 to 10,200 BTU/h simply by adding R-30 ceiling insulation seem plausible? Would you recommend a more detailed Manual J calculation before selecting equipment?

3. Long-term reliability and brand value: Mitsubishi has an established reputation in mini-splits, and I understand The Villages has used Mitsubishi equipment extensively. Does anyone have experience with the newer Lennox/Samsung mini-splits, especially their longevity, compressor or control-board failures, parts availability, and local service support? I realize Samsung's somewhat poor reputation in other appliance categories isn't necessarily representative of its HVAC equipment, so I'm particularly interested in firsthand experiences rather than assumptions.

I like features such as built-in Wi-Fi, adjustable airflow, and intelligent humidity-control modes, but reliability and serviceability are much more important to me than extra features.

Is Mitsubishi worth the premium? If the equipment is correctly sized and installed, would you pay approximately $1,500 more for Mitsubishi GX over the Lennox/Samsung? Why or why not?

4. Other manufacturers: Should we also consider Daikin, Fujitsu, Carrier, or another brand with good local service and parts support?

5. Installation considerations: Any advice on condenser placement, proper refrigerant-line installation, condensate drainage, warranty coverage (especially labor), or permitting issues specific to enclosed lanais in The Villages? The second contractor seemed particularly attentive to the electrical routing, outdoor unit location, and potential egress issues.

We're less interested in saving $2,000 today than in getting a system that cools effectively in August, controls humidity during milder weather, and provides 10–15+ years of dependable service.

I'd especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has installed, serviced, or owned these particular Mitsubishi or Samsung/Lennox systems.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

I did exactly what you are looking for. I would be fine with giving you some advice on my experience. I have also owned an HVAC company in Pennsylvania. I used a Contractor in The Villages and everything went great. I would be fine with chatting with you for a couple minutes on the phone if you would wanna do that. Send me a message with your contact information and I can give you a call later today if you prefer.

[spieka1912]

Your project will struggle severely if you don’t consider high quality roll down sunshades. (interior) I have 300 sf north facing lanai w/ 1.5 ton Mitsubishi. Had to install shades on east and west facing glass full height glass. This system worked well this summer. New this January.

[Dave Laluk]

Originally Posted by idlewild

We're looking to install a mini-split heat pump in our enclosed lanai here in The Villages and would appreciate input, especially from current/former HVAC professionals or homeowners with experience with these brands.

Our Lanai:
* Approximately 309 sq. ft., south-facing, with considerable direct afternoon sun.
* Enclosed with single-pane glass (not insulated or low-E).
* Currently no meaningful ceiling insulation; planning to add **R-30 blown-in insulation** as part of the project.
* Gets extremely hot and muggy, particularly from April through October, with August being brutal.
* We want reliable cooling and, equally importantly, good humidity control without excessive cycling or energy consumption.

We've received two substantially different recommendations from established local HVAC contractors.

Contractor A — Mitsubishi 12K
Recommended a 12,000 BTU Mitsubishi mini-split with two equipment options:

-Mitsubishi WX12 (MSZ-WX12NL / MUZ-WX12NL): 18 SEER2 — $6,705 installed
-Mitsubishi GX12 (MSZ-GX12NL / MUZ-GX12NL): 25.6 SEER2 — $8,005 installed

Both prices include approximately $415 for R-30 blown-in ceiling insulation, the mini-split installation, and a new dedicated electrical circuit. I still need to confirm permitting and clarify some conflicting warranty details in the written estimate.

Their load calculations:
The salesperson provided two screenshots from a load-calculation tool labeled "EDS Load Calculator," showing:

- Existing ceiling (R-1): 27,295 BTU/h cooling load (25,911 sensible + 1,385 latent)
- After R-30 insulation: 10,210 BTU/h cooling load (8,825 sensible + 1,385 latent)

Based on the insulated calculation, they recommended a 12K unit.

I don't know whether this represents a complete Manual J calculation or a simplified estimate. A reduction of approximately 17,085 BTU/h from ceiling insulation alone seems a bit too...substantial. Does that seem reasonable, particularly with our south-facing single-pane glass? I'm curious whether the calculation adequately accounts for the glass area, solar heat gain, and other conditions.

Contractor B — Lennox/Samsung 18K
Recommended an 18,000 BTU Lennox mini-split powered by Samsung:

- Indoor model: MWHD018S6-1P
- Outdoor model: MWHD018S6S-1P
- 21.5 SEER2 / 12.85 EER2
- Inverter-driven, R-32 refrigerant, built-in Wi-Fi and Dry mode
- 10-year parts warranty, 10-year compressor warranty, and 2-year service agreement (labor warranty coverage still needs clarification)

Quote: $5,745 installed, including electrical work, permit, taxes, new condenser pad, hurricane tie-downs, surge protector, condensate drain, and safety float switch. R-30 ceiling insulation is not included and is estimated separately at approximately $900.

* Total with insulation: approximately $6,645. *

This representative felt that 18K was necessary, primarily because of the single-pane glass, southern exposure, and heat/humidity conditions. He also inspected the electrical routing, condenser placement, and possible code/egress issues involving nearby windows. He offered to quote Mitsubishi as well, but estimated a comparable GX system would cost approximately $1,500 more and didn't feel the additional expense was justified.

Here's Our Dilemma

We have two established local contractors recommending **12K versus 18K** for the same 309-square-foot room, at almost identical overall project prices when insulation is included.

I'm particularly interested in feedback on:

1. Sizing and humidity control: Is 18K excessive for a 309-square-foot enclosed lanai, even with substantial south-facing single-pane glass? Or would 12K struggle on a sunny August afternoon? Since these are inverter systems, how important is their minimum cooling capacity in controlling humidity without short-cycling? Would a 15K unit be a better compromise?

2. Load calculations: Does a drop from approximately 27,300 to 10,200 BTU/h simply by adding R-30 ceiling insulation seem plausible? Would you recommend a more detailed Manual J calculation before selecting equipment?

3. Long-term reliability and brand value: Mitsubishi has an established reputation in mini-splits, and I understand The Villages has used Mitsubishi equipment extensively. Does anyone have experience with the newer Lennox/Samsung mini-splits, especially their longevity, compressor or control-board failures, parts availability, and local service support? I realize Samsung's somewhat poor reputation in other appliance categories isn't necessarily representative of its HVAC equipment, so I'm particularly interested in firsthand experiences rather than assumptions.

I like features such as built-in Wi-Fi, adjustable airflow, and intelligent humidity-control modes, but reliability and serviceability are much more important to me than extra features.

Is Mitsubishi worth the premium? If the equipment is correctly sized and installed, would you pay approximately $1,500 more for Mitsubishi GX over the Lennox/Samsung? Why or why not?

4. Other manufacturers: Should we also consider Daikin, Fujitsu, Carrier, or another brand with good local service and parts support?

5. Installation considerations: Any advice on condenser placement, proper refrigerant-line installation, condensate drainage, warranty coverage (especially labor), or permitting issues specific to enclosed lanais in The Villages? The second contractor seemed particularly attentive to the electrical routing, outdoor unit location, and potential egress issues.

We're less interested in saving $2,000 today than in getting a system that cools effectively in August, controls humidity during milder weather, and provides 10–15+ years of dependable service.

I'd especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has installed, serviced, or owned these particular Mitsubishi or Samsung/Lennox systems.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

I would make sure that any unit you buy is an inverter type. More efficient. If feasible, also get a heat pump style unit so you can heat in the cooler months. Given that you're south facing with single pane glass, I would go with the larger unit. Also check to see if the contractor is quoting ASHREA or SACC ratings. They can be very different. Use the SACC rating for load calculations. I looked into air conditioning our 150 sq. ft. lanai, south facing with double pane low-e glass, no extra insulation and came up with a 9000 BTU requirement.

[cleosmum]

Two years ago I had Munn’s install a mini split on my 300 ft.² lanai. Works like a charm! I have single pane windows on my enclosed lanai, and I did have insulation put above the lanai through the attic. Honestly, even on the hottest days it cools off within minutes! Good luck to you.