[Michael G.]

Originally Posted by Woodbear

Paints are made with similar base components (i.e. film forming polymer, non-film forming polymer, resin, titanium dioxide, water and various additives for wetting, defoaming, cross-linking). The better polymers cost more, water costs less. The polymer system matters (acrylic, alkyd or epoxy). Additives that contribute to better rheology cost more. If you ever painted with a cheap paint, I bet you see the splatter on your arm. The more expensive paint does not do this. Understanding percent solids helps explain why some paints may be better. As for those that have better hiding, expect that formula to contain more titanium dioxide.

If I was painting today, I do not need the top of the line paint. I find a "B+" paint to do just fine. I also expect to paint 2 coats on any surface I work with. In my days working with Pratt & Lambert Paints I would have sworn by it. Today after being owned by Sherwin Williams for 20+ years I have no clue what they have done to this once great paint.

Lastly, when taping off, I paint my first coat along the tape line the same color as the trim. Therefore any bleed through matches the trim. I find there is always some bleed through.

Thanks
One is never too old to learn.

[La lamy]

If you do use tape, here is a type that is known to have a no bleed technology. I prefer to not use tape myself, so can't assure you of its claim.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by La lamy

If you do use tape, here is a type that is known to have a no bleed technology. I prefer to not use tape myself, so can't assure you of its claim.

Tape good when surface is flat Like around door framing, windows) if it textured (like most ceilings ) I find it’s best to use high end cut in brush if you got steady hand. If you tape line between textured and smooth surface you will get some bleed through and have to us cut brush to correct it.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by djlnc

Thank you all for the advice. I was just curious if there was anything about the paint here that would complicate the job, but it sounds like that's not an issue. I'm ready to forge ahead!

Naturally more expense paint will cover better and maybe last longer as described by woodbear, not saying it’s same but will do vs 30 dollars gallon vs 80 dollars gallon.

[JayBee]

It is great to hear from some who knows what he is talking about..

[Proveone]

Originally Posted by djlnc

We purchased a veranda that's a few years old and all the walls are the original textured white. I'd like to initially paint one wall as an accent wall. I've done a fair amount of painting over the years, but just want to be sure that these walls will take paint without a coat of primer first. Don't want to wind up with adhesion problems. Any do-it-yourselfers out there with advice?

Thanks!

Surface light sand and prime.

[Investment Painting Contractors]

Originally Posted by Proveone

Surface light sand and prime.

Builders coat will act as a Primer. You don't have to sand "Textured Walls" that are painted with Flat Paint. Len. 55 years Experience

[dp.reed]

Recommend a sheep skin roller. They cost more but do a lot better job, holding a lot more paint than a synthetic roller.
Also, buy at least one handle for easier rolling and less stress on your arm and back. The handle is not for reaching up high, it is for better leverage on the roller. I bought two and cut one in half; using the short one in tight spaces like the hallway.

[DaleDivine]

Originally Posted by Investment Painting Contractors

Builders coat will act as a Primer. You don't have to sand "Textured Walls" that are painted with Flat Paint. Len. 55 years Experience

The "paint" that the builders use is more primer than regular paint. Try taking a wet cloth in a small hidden area, ie. a closet and rub a little. Doesn't take any effort to rubbing the paint off into the drywall...