[charles_2000]

I just wanted to say. You can install an LPS system on your roof without pentrating your roof. They make Adhesive style Air-terminals mounting bases and Adhesive Cable Fastener. This how I am doing my house.

[mrf6969]

Originally Posted by charles_2000

I just wanted to say. You can install an LPS system on your roof without pentrating your roof. They make Adhesive style Air-terminals mounting bases and Adhesive Cable Fastener. This how I am doing my house.

Wonder how well those glued down air terminals will hold up over time. Using copper? What company is doing your installation?

[jrref]

Originally Posted by mrf6969

Wonder how well those glued down air terminals will hold up over time. Using copper? What company is doing your installation?

They work because the air terminals and cables have very low wind resistance. But as mentioned in speaking to the owners of Triangle and A1, there haven't been any issues using the approved roofing fasteners. There are thousands of LPS installations here in the Villages so if there was a problem, many would be talking about it.

[Altavia]

Originally Posted by Bill14564

This is where I am today. Haven’t contacted a company yet but it’s on my list (a little discouraged by the talk of a five month lead time).

There are several nationally based firms in the business that do commercial and residential installations.

Try Googling company's in Tampa and Orlando if you haven't already.

Suggest to prioritize multi-level surge protection first since that is the most likely scenario for damage.

[jrref]

When we were talking about Lightning Protection Institute (LPI) and UL certified vs non-certified installers, people were asking why they needed to worry about that. They said they checked the Better Business Bureau and the non-certified installer had an excellent rating. Well, I can't say whether the non-certified installers working here in the Villages do the correct job or not since I haven't been able to look at any of these installations but the first two pictures below shows incorrect work done here in the Villages. I have no idea when this system was installed or by whom but clearly running the grounding cable from the air terminal over the aluminum siding facia along with the tight angles from the roof to the side of the house is clearly incorrect. I've seen this type of installation on more than one home here in the Villages. See the first two attached photos for the incorrect installation and the remaining three for the correct installation. Note one of the correct photo's shows the cable from the roof making a gentile arc over the gutter while the next photo shows the cable going through the roof through the soffit. Either method is acceptable. What is wrong is in the second photo where the cable tightly running aroung the siding and gutter to get from the roof to the side of the house to the grounding rod.

[jrref]

Update:
If you employ a lightning protection system vendor that is not listed by Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and they do not employ Master Installers by exam according to the criteria of the Lightning Protection institute (LPI) you may want to ask the following questions since these contractors self-certify their installations:
1) Do they follow the NFPA 780 standards for installing lightning protection systems? They should show you their copy of the document.
2) Do they use UL listed components, meaning wire, air terminals, ground rods and connectors with the UL label attached?
3) Do they use all copper components which are better conductors? Aluminum is a cheaper option and is appropriate in certain circumstances but copper can be re-used when you eventually replace your roof.
4) How many ground rods will be installed and what length? They should install three to four ground rods depending on the size of your home. 10ft rods may be fine depending on your soil but 20ft will be better for most soil variations here in the Villages. The concern is although the Villages tries to build your home on good solid ground with a good soil mixture, some areas may have soil that is sandier than others and require longer ground rods to get to the less than 25-ohm specification.
5) Do they test all ground rods to verify they have less than 25 ohms resistance to earth ground. The installer should provide you with a report for each rod tested?
6) If they use 10ft ground rods make sure you see a report that all rods are less than 25 ohms to earth ground. If any are out of spec, you can ask and pay for an additional 10ft to get the rod in specification, less than 25 ohms.
7) Will the air terminals will have at least 2 paths to ground?
8) Do they ground and bond everything metal on the roof such as attic and dryer vents, gutters, and your HVAC, pool and spa equipment? Do they Bond the natural gas service piping entering the structure and distribution manifold in the attic if you have natural gas? Bonding means connecting to your earth grounding system.
9) What type of roofing connectors do they use? Is there any guarantee if there is a leak and for how long? Do they use any sealants used to prevent leaks?
10) What is their recommended maintenance interval is and how much it will cost? You should have your system checked every 3-5 years.

[deborah.pfau@outlook.com]

Originally Posted by jrref

Update:
If you employ a lightning protection system vendor that is not listed by Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and they do not employ Master Installers by exam according to the criteria of the Lightning Protection institute (LPI) you may want to ask the following questions since these contractors self-certify their installations:
1) Do they follow the NFPA 780 standards for installing lightning protection systems? They should show you their copy of the document.
2) Do they use UL listed components, meaning wire, air terminals, ground rods and connectors with the UL label attached?
3) Do they use all copper components which are better conductors? Aluminum is a cheaper option and is appropriate in certain circumstances but copper can be re-used when you eventually replace your roof.
4) How many ground rods will be installed and what length? They should install three to four ground rods depending on the size of your home. 10ft rods may be fine depending on your soil but 20ft will be better for most soil variations here in the Villages. The concern is although the Villages tries to build your home on good solid ground with a good soil mixture, some areas may have soil that is sandier than others and require longer ground rods to get to the less than 25-ohm specification.
5) Do they test all ground rods to verify they have less than 25 ohms resistance to earth ground. The installer should provide you with a report for each rod tested?
6) If they use 10ft ground rods make sure you see a report that all rods are less than 25 ohms to earth ground. If any are out of spec, you can ask and pay for an additional 10ft to get the rod in specification, less than 25 ohms.
7) Will the air terminals will have at least 2 paths to ground?
8) Do they ground and bond everything metal on the roof such as attic and dryer vents, gutters, and your HVAC, pool and spa equipment? Do they Bond the natural gas service piping entering the structure and distribution manifold in the attic if you have natural gas? Bonding means connecting to your earth grounding system.
9) What type of roofing connectors do they use? Is there any guarantee if there is a leak and for how long? Do they use any sealants used to prevent leaks?
10) What is their recommended maintenance interval is and how much it will cost? You should have your system checked every 3-5 years.

Wow! Thanks for all this information. It is really helpful.

[mrf6969]

All good points. If you hire Danny Mack with A-1 you can be assured that your LPS is installed correctly using the right materials.

[jrref]

Originally Posted by mrf6969

All good points. If you hire Danny Mack with A-1 you can be assured that your LPS is installed correctly using the right materials.

Correct, because he is LPI and UL certified and a very knowledgable LPS installer. The same with Triangle.