[cafw1]

The law concerning replacement of roofs was written very liberally and so roofing companies were able to legally or possibly illegally get their clients free roofs but that law is changing on July 1st and will no longer be possible. I personally am confused as to how I feel about what has happened. I don't like seeing people get 15 year old roofs replaced for free when I feel they should pay for them but then I wonder if my thinking is flawed and I should also take advantage of poorly written laws with no concern of how it will effect insurance rates. How do you feel about this fiasco?

[bilcon]

I just played golf with a guy who bought his second home, a resale. He applied for insurance and paid a binder on the new policy. Right before the closing, he received a notice from the insurance company that were no longer insuring homes over 10 years old in TV and returned his check. He was now faced with no insurance and ended up having to get into the pool and pay a much higher rate. All you people who got new roofs for nothing are one of the causes. My homeowners insurance went up over $900 and I never had a claim. My home is 12 yrs old, and the new policy restricts the amount I get towards a new roof. I will probably end up paying for a new roof myself when I need it in order to sell the home.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Annie66

The issue is once you sign the Assignment of Benefits, you've basically tied the hands of your insurance company. Sure, they can contest the claim filed by the contractor which is invariably 30-40% higher cost than if you contracted with a reputable roofer. The roofing companies have hired a battery of lawyers that will ultimately cost the insurance company much more money in legal fees than if they simply paid the inflated claim. Or, they can roll over and pay it. You can suffer in two ways: (1) the aforementioned poorer quality may result and (2), your insurance company may annotate your file as having filed a fraudulent claim, which they share with all the other insurance companies. You make out this year, but expect to either see your homeowners insurance canceled the following year or they jack up your premium so high it is out of sight. If you have your homeowners insurance canceled, good luck in getting another company to give you a good deal ...... remember that fraudulent claim information sharing.

What is your source for this information? In particular, I don't think you can force an insurance company to pay 30-40 percent more than a new roof is worth, or to pay anything for a bogus claim.

[DAVES]

Originally Posted by bilcon

I just played golf with a guy who bought his second home, a resale. He applied for insurance and paid a binder on the new policy. Right before the closing, he received a notice from the insurance company that were no longer insuring homes over 10 years old in TV and returned his check. He was now faced with no insurance and ended up having to get into the pool and pay a much higher rate. All you people who got new roofs for nothing are one of the causes. My homeowners insurance went up over $900 and I never had a claim. My home is 12 yrs old, and the new policy restricts the amount I get towards a new roof. I will probably end up paying for a new roof myself when I need it in order to sell the home.

Where we are today, perhaps it has always been so. For many, honorable, honest are words that mean stupid and fool. I am not religious but for too many thou shalt not steal is don't steal from me but it is fine if I steal from you.

[cafw1]

To the person who questioned the increase in an insurance claim initiated by a door to door solicitor company vs. a non- door to door solicitor company: Charging 30-40% more by door to door roofing companies getting people new roofs makes perfect sense. The roofing company involved has to hire workers to go door to door and talk people into having their roofs inspected, draw up and get paperwork signed and authorized and deal with the insurance companies' inspector. If the claim is rejected the roofing company is linked to a law firm that then takes the insurance company to court at no cost to the homeowner. This all takes time and manpower which translates into money. The roofing company, the man who goes door to door etc and the lawyer all have to make money on the deal therefore a 30-40% increase in the cost of the roof---makes sense to me.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by cafw1

To the person who questioned the increase in an insurance claim initiated by a door to door solicitor company vs. a non- door to door solicitor company: Charging 30-40% more by door to door roofing companies getting people new roofs makes perfect sense. The roofing company involved has to hire workers to go door to door and talk people into having their roofs inspected, draw up and get paperwork signed and authorized and deal with the insurance companies' inspector. If the claim is rejected the roofing company is linked to a law firm that then takes the insurance company to court at no cost to the homeowner. This all takes time and manpower which translates into money. The roofing company, the man who goes door to door etc and the lawyer all have to make money on the deal therefore a 30-40% increase in the cost of the roof---makes sense to me.

It doesn't make sense to me. The insurance companies have lawyers too. What are they doing?

[Rzepecki]

In the Bonnybrook area the roofs are around 16 years old, but shingled with 25 year shingles. When your roof reaches 15 years old in Florida/this area (?), the insurance companies will either not insure your home or charge a higher price because the roof is “too old”. Doesn’t seem kosher to me.

[stevesliders]

I would not let Eustis roofing put a roof on my dog house.

[Curtisbwp]

Money

[ProfessorDave]

I'm sorry. Much of the information shared is NOT ACCURATE. It is often TOO your advantage to let the roofing contractor be responsible for dealing with the insurance company. Here's why:

a) Insurance Company... in their interest to pay the least amount they can get away with. They will tell you to get three quotes. That way, they believe their more likely to get the lowest liability. The problem is - often it means you are getting the weakest roofing contractor.

b) Your Right... to get your own quotes. You even have the right to give the contractor the right to negotiate on your behalf.

c) What You'd Want... the best roofing system you can get. They are usually VERY DIFFERENT. Would you call a Toyota Yaris the same as a Toyota Avalon? Of course you wouldn't.

d) What A GREAT Contractor Does... negotiate with the insurance company to get you the BEST SYSTEM they can. Your best option is get the commitment from the contractor PRIOR to giving them responsibility to negotiate with the insurance company (and/or adjuster assigned) that THEY will use the UPGRADED system they present - AND - put that one on - at their risk - regardless if they get the insurance company to agree. For example, in the Villages, at least bringing the attachments up to hurricane code (which also can lower your insurance).

e) What I Personally Would Do? As the contractor to commit to all (or at least most) of the following - and - at their risk - that's what they commit to - and let them go battle it out with insurance. That's because they now have a vested interest and commitment to get the most from the insurance company. The following are things I WOULD ASK FOR (and get as much as you can):

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.

[ProfessorDave]

I'm sorry. Much of the information shared is NOT ACCURATE. It is often TO your advantage to let the roofing contractor be responsible for dealing with the insurance company. Here's why:

a) Insurance Company... in their interest to pay the least amount they can get away with. They will tell you to get three quotes. That way, they believe their more likely to get the lowest liability. The problem is - often it means you are getting the weakest roofing contractor.

b) Your Right... to get your own quotes. You even have the right to give the contractor the right to negotiate on your behalf.

c) What You'd Want... the best roofing system you can get. They are usually VERY DIFFERENT. Would you call a Toyota Yaris the same as a Toyota Avalon? Of course you wouldn't.

d) What A GREAT Contractor Does... negotiate with the insurance company to get you the BEST SYSTEM they can. Your best option is get the commitment from the contractor PRIOR to giving them responsibility to negotiate with the insurance company (and/or adjuster assigned) that THEY will use the UPGRADED system they present - AND - put that one on - at their risk - regardless if they get the insurance company to agree. For example, in the Villages, at least bringing the attachments up to hurricane code (which also can lower your insurance).

e) What I Personally Would Do? As the contractor to commit to all (or at least most) of the following - and - at their risk - that's what they commit to - and let them go battle it out with insurance. That's because they now have a vested interest and commitment to get the most from the insurance company. The following are things I WOULD ASK FOR (and get as much as you can):

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.

[ProfessorDave]

I'm sorry. Much of the information shared is NOT ACCURATE. It is often TO your advantage to let the roofing contractor be responsible for dealing with the insurance company. Here's why:

a) Insurance Company... in their interest to pay the least amount they can get away with. They will tell you to get three quotes. That way, they believe their more likely to get the lowest liability. The problem is - often it means you are getting the weakest roofing contractor.

b) Your Right... to get your own quotes. You even have the right to give the contractor the right to negotiate on your behalf.

c) What You'd Want... the best roofing system you can get. They are usually VERY DIFFERENT. Would you call a Toyota Yaris the same as a Toyota Avalon? Of course you wouldn't.

d) What A GREAT Contractor Does... negotiate with the insurance company to get you the BEST SYSTEM they can. Your best option is get the commitment from the contractor PRIOR to giving them responsibility to negotiate with the insurance company (and/or adjuster assigned) that THEY will use the UPGRADED system they present - AND - put that one on - at their risk - regardless if they get the insurance company to agree. For example, in the Villages, at least bringing the attachments up to hurricane code (which also can lower your insurance).

e) What I Personally Would Do? As the contractor to commit to all (or at least most) of the following - and - at their risk - that's what they commit to - and let them go battle it out with insurance. That's because they now have a vested interest and commitment to get the most from the insurance company. The following are things I WOULD ASK FOR (and get as much as you can):

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.

[taruffi57]

Shingle roofs in that area are not near worn out. (42 yrs. roofing experience in Cen. Fla.)

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by ProfessorDave

I'm sorry. Much of the information shared is NOT ACCURATE. It is often TOO your advantage to let the roofing contractor be responsible for dealing with the insurance company. Here's why:

a) Insurance Company... in their interest to pay the least amount they can get away with. They will tell you to get three quotes. That way, they believe their more likely to get the lowest liability. The problem is - often it means you are getting the weakest roofing contractor.

b) Your Right... to get your own quotes. You even have the right to give the contractor the right to negotiate on your behalf.

c) What You'd Want... the best roofing system you can get. They are usually VERY DIFFERENT. Would you call a Toyota Yaris the same as a Toyota Avalon? Of course you wouldn't.

d) What A GREAT Contractor Does... negotiate with the insurance company to get you the BEST SYSTEM they can. Your best option is get the commitment from the contractor PRIOR to giving them responsibility to negotiate with the insurance company (and/or adjuster assigned) that THEY will use the UPGRADED system they present - AND - put that one on - at their risk - regardless if they get the insurance company to agree. For example, in the Villages, at least bringing the attachments up to hurricane code (which also can lower your insurance).

e) What I Personally Would Do? As the contractor to commit to all (or at least most) of the following - and - at their risk - that's what they commit to - and let them go battle it out with insurance. That's because they now have a vested interest and commitment to get the most from the insurance company. The following are things I WOULD ASK FOR (and get as much as you can):

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.

Regarding your paragraph b), I would never allow a roofer or any contractor to negotiate with my insurance company on my behalf, especially if that means signing an Assignment of Benefits form. I would much prefer to find and approve my own contractor, do any required negotiations myself, and maintain control of the project for scheduling and payment. I would do this even if I had to pay some of the cost out of pocket.

[cafw1]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

It doesn't make sense to me. The insurance companies have lawyers too. What are they doing?

It costs the insurance company money to pay their lawyers to defend a claims rejection and the lawyers who the roofing companies hire work cheaply so it's cheaper for the ins. company to give in and give people a new roof. Why do you think they're giving free roofs?