[Singerlady]

Originally Posted by TCRSO

Considering a Gardenia model. It would need a new roof soon. Would like an idea of replacement cost. If you have info on cost your input would be welcomed.

Thanks

You are getting robbed! I hope you got at least two other quotes.

[Singerlady]

Originally Posted by perrjojo

He has solar panels and lightning rods to be removed and replaced. That is an additional charge.

Ok... now I understand. That is an important part of your quote.

[stadry]

imo, those are high however my only comparison is past 6 mos in atl,,, tearoff, new felt, reshingle w/235# arch - labor $165sq,,, solar & rods addl

[dstark]

Our Gardenia roof was replaced for 20k this year. We have 3 solar tubes and they removed the old roofing.

[caljeff]

I had my roof replaced on a 2000sf dwelling by Dan Shepler Roofing. As a baseline, my price was approx $14K and did not have the extras you mentioned in your post.

[murray5258]

call Robert Collins for estimate. guarantee he will get you the lowest cost,maybe just your deductible. Tell him you heard it from Mr. Greene. His number is 407-401-5730

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

Originally Posted by Singerlady

Ok... now I understand. That is an important part of your quote.

10k additional?

54 squares cost me 15.5 thats with Owens duration and the upgraded underlayment.

[Kahuna32162]

[QUOTE=CWGUY;1871504] You need to know how many square your roof is...... not how many sq. ft. your house is. Next you need to ask for the price per square. Ask each roofing company what they get per square...... then you can compare quotes. There are web sites to measure your roof without coming to your house. Sack Roofing used one to give us a quote. He also told us how much per square. [/Q

[holmesperdue]

SPS roofing did our stretch Gardina for 14K; Sacks was about the same. Keep in mind that a general roofer is much cheaper than a general contractor. Our insurance company approved a general contractor price that was 1/3 again as high as a general roofer. I saved them 6.5K by going with SPS or Sacks vs say a company like Secured Roofing...

[harby]

Originally Posted by TCRSO

Considering a Gardenia model. It would need a new roof soon. Would like an idea of replacement cost. If you have info on cost your input would be welcomed.

Thanks

We had it replaced with new one (removed all old shingles and put new ones) on our oversized Gardenia for 14k last March done by Sack Roofing, Fruitland/Lady Lake. They did neat work. Chas

[Bill32]

Are people still getting their insurance companies to pay for a new roof? How? If the roof is just getting old will the ins co. pay for a new one???

[kappy]

McHale Roofing gave us a very reasonable quote and completed the entire roof in a day and a half. They also did an excellent job of cleaning up. We highly recommend them.

[Dlbonivich]

Also 600 sq ft more than the average Gardinia

[Kahuna32162]

Originally Posted by Bill32

Are people still getting their insurance companies to pay for a new roof? How? If the roof is just getting old will the ins co. pay for a new one???

The short answer is Yes, but we had to really fight with them to get a fair settlement. Every home north of 466 will need a new roof before your insurance company will renew your yearly policy as these roofs are, or are close, to being 20 years old.

In our case, we could prove wind and hail damages from storms in February of this year. We were actually gone at the time of the storm, but were told about it by our house sitters.

[ProfessorDave]

Don't know the cost - but my rule of thumb is $400 per square foot.
Here is what I do know - and hope it helps:

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.