[Barefoot]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

My point for gas carts was CHECK your oil Occasionally, but better to do it Often!.

Thanks for the heads up. I've never owned a gas cart before, so your instruction is appreciated.

[manaboutown]

Oil is cheaper than engines.

[tophcfa]

Agree, changing the oil (I prefer to use a synthetic called Amsoil) is the most important. But also important is to make sure the air filter is clean, slow way down for all those dam speed bumps, and never use gas containing ethanol. The gas is very important if you are a part time resident. If you must use ethanol, always use a quality fuel stabilizer. Also a good idea to put the battery on a trickle charger periodically and check the PSI in the tires.

[photo1902]

Originally Posted by bbbbbb

We have an EZ Go and love it. No problems ever, no smoke, no vibration, no gas. NO, we did not buy from the village carts. Why buy a cart from someone who owns a gas pump? Maybe they want to sell gas??????????

I like that they sell Ethanol free gas. Very convenient. And to my knowledge, other than the gas station at Pinellas Plaza, The Villages Golf Cart stores are the only cart accessible place that sells it.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by Barefoot

Thanks for the heads up. I've never owned a gas cart before, so your instruction is appreciated.

Just keep it in the XXXXX on the dip stick. Normal engine won't use much oil till the oil looses it viscosity and become dirty with combustion by products. Once this happens the oil losses it ability to clean, cool,, and lubricant which will be obvious from the color of the oil, black and dirty looking when you wipe it off with paper towel. IMO this is beyond time to change it, but it is vital to at least keep it within the XXXXXs on the dip stick and you will have to check it more often due to overheating effect on the engine.

Over several years of use the engine clearances become worn and the seals that seal oil in the crank case become brittle and worn (or from lack of oil changes). This causes oil consumption and leaks. Leaks will be noticeable by oil drops under the cart when it sets for while. This is when checking the oil becomes weekly or every other day depending on use.

You will find lots of opinions on when to change oil. Even owner's manual may be unclear due to use and conditions. IMO I can't leave oil in air cooled (basically lawn mower engine) for year. Snow birds could probably get away with it due to limited use. But, IMO any full time resident that uses golf cart every day twice year with quality oil. Some claim the put 15k year on they're cart. IMO that would be every 4 months minimum IMO.

[Nucky]

Our Yamaha Gas is in for its first year service. Where did the time go? Anyway we only have about 1200 miles on it rite now and changing the oil once a year and having it checked over is worth the peace of mind and the $75 to $100. I bought new because I want it to be us from day one putting every mile on that cart ourselves. I have no plan of any adult children being loaned our cart. We have had friends ask to borrow our cart when they had company and were surprised when I said no. Rite in stride I asked if I could borrow their tooth brush, I hope they got the point that the cart is a personal item and should be cared for the way you wish to care for it. Krazorback Bravo for the low mileage oil change. I baby our cart the same way our car get the best treatment.....Pay me now or pay me later...I want to try and prevent the TOW of shame.

[biker1]

According to Yamaha, up to 10% ethanol is fine. The problem with ethanol is that it absorbs water so a fuel stabilizer would be good if the cart sits for long periods of time. If you are using the cart regularly, it isn't clear that a fuel stabilizer will make any difference. I have 11,000 miles with regular gas with 10% ethanol and no issues.

Regarding oil changes, I change the oil every 50-75 hours of running time (roughly every 1000 miles). This is in line with the Yamaha owner's manual (1250 mile oil changes). Without a used oil analysis, it is impossible to know whether this is too frequent or not. It only takes a quart so erroring on the conservative side is really not an issue. Mobil 1 from Walmart ($24 for 5 quarts) is a cost effective synthetic. The air filter should be good for about 10K miles. The differential oil (1.8 quarts) should also be changed periodically. The Villages Golf Cart store has the OEM differential oil with the friction modifiers for a very good price. A shot of grease for the clutch if it has a zerk fitting is probably a good idea also.

Originally Posted by tophcfa

Agree, changing the oil (I prefer to use a synthetic called Amsoil) is the most important. But also important is to make sure the air filter is clean, slow way down for all those dam speed bumps, and never use gas containing ethanol. The gas is very important if you are a part time resident. If you must use ethanol, always use a quality fuel stabilizer. Also a good idea to put the battery on a trickle charger periodically and check the PSI in the tires.

[biker1]

I doubt anyone is driving a golf cart 15k miles per year. That would work out to about 40 miles a day, 365 days a year. If you don't drive your cart one day then you need to drive it 80 miles the next day to maintain the pace. It is hard to average more than about 16 mph on the MMPs and the roads so you would be looking at somewhere between 2 and 3 hours a day of driving. The Villages is only 12 miles long. A round of golf on the Championship courses is about 5 miles.

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

Some claim the put 15k year on they're cart. IMO that would be every 4 months minimum IMO.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by biker1

According to Yamaha, up to 10% ethanol is fine. The problem with ethanol is that it absorbs water so a fuel stabilizer would be good if the cart sits for long periods of time. If you are using the cart regularly, it isn't clear that a fuel stabilizer will make any difference. I have 11,000 miles with regular gas with 10% ethanol and no issues.

Regarding oil changes, I change the oil every 50-75 hours of running time (roughly every 1000 miles). This is in line with the Yamaha owner's manual (1250 mile oil changes). Without a used oil analysis, it is impossible to know whether this is too frequent or not. It only takes a quart so erroring on the conservative side is really not an issue. Mobil 1 from Walmart ($24 for 5 quarts) is a cost effective synthetic. The air filter should be good for about 10K miles. The differential oil (1.8 quarts) should also be changed periodically. The Villages Golf Cart store has the OEM differential oil with the friction modifiers for a very good price. A shot of grease for the clutch if it has a zerk fitting is probably a good idea also.

I found two grease zerks on the drive line. One on the centrifugal clutch (as you mention) and one on the transaxle pulley ujoint to the transaxle.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by biker1

I doubt anyone is driving a golf cart 15k miles per year. That would work out to about 40 miles a day, 365 days a year. If you don't drive your cart one day then you need to drive it 80 miles the next day to maintain the pace. It is hard to average more than about 16 mph on the MMPs and the roads so you would be looking at somewhere between 2 and 3 hours a day of driving. The Villages is only 12 miles long. A round of golf on the Championship courses is about 5 miles.

I didn't proof read and put 1 in there. I meant 5k or more. Not me We average around 2k year for full time resident

[biker1]

OK, that makes sense. We drive 3.5k miles per year. I have no doubt that there are plenty of folks driving 5k miles per year.

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

I didn't proof read and put 1 in there. I meant 5k or more. Not me We average around 2k year for full time resident

[biker1]

I believe 1 shot of grease is good. I believe less is better than more.

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

I found two grease zerks on the drive line. One on the centrifugal clutch (as you mention) and one on the transaxle pulley ujoint to the transaxle.

[Topspinmo]

O, one more thing. IMO don't over fill crankcase. Almost as bad as not checking it. Keep the oil level in the XXXXXXs on the dip stick. If you over fill it this create blow by pressure which could lead to leaks and oil pushed up into the carb. Through the blow by tube. Basically the excess oil has to go some where cause it expands when it gets hot making even less room in the crankcase so it starts pushing it out and the first place usually up in the air filter housing IMO. Rebuttal???? Open for discussion?

[Wiotte]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

O, one more thing. IMO don't over fill crankcase. Almost as bad as not checking it. Keep the oil level in the XXXXXXs on the dip stick. If you over fill it this create blow by pressure which could lead to leaks and oil pushed up into the carb. Through the blow by tube. Basically the excess oil has to go some where cause it expands when it gets hot making even less room in the crankcase so it starts pushing it out and the first place usually up in the air filter housing IMO. Rebuttal???? Open for discussion?

Huh ? Do you mean more is not better ? Typically I'll run 1.5 qts. 50W and add a can of STP and Marvel Mystery Oil. Keeps my cart running cool and super quiet all year long. No blow by [emoji6]


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[Wiotte]

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