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  #16  
Old 05-20-2024, 07:18 AM
Blueblaze Blueblaze is offline
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First thing I did when I bought this house was replace all those ridiculous pop-off valves, along with that leaking plastic master shut-off in the garage, and those insane CPVC plastic pipes sticking out of the wall to the 18-year-old hotwater tank in the garage, which I also replaced. I also replaced all the flexible hoses.
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Old 05-20-2024, 07:57 AM
JRcorvette JRcorvette is offline
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
Last week, I had Mike Scott Plumbing replace the plastic push-pull valves on my 2 toilets with quarter turn metal valves. The total fixed cost was $213 ($69 for each valve plus a $75 trip charge). I know that some people have replaced every plastic valve in their house, and I also know there are cheaper ways to replace the valves. But, the toilets occasionally need to be repaired with a new gasket, or a new fill valve. Now, I know that I can turn off the water to the toilets and have more confidence that I will not encounter a leaking valve that would require the water to be shut down for the entire house. To me, the peace of mind was worth the cost.
They use a special Glue. I would not recommend doing this yourself unless you are experienced in doing such work. The two biggest water damage insurance claims are: Washing machine hoses and toilet hoses & fitting. You insurance deductible is probably way hight than the $213 not to mention the hassle of having your house flooded.
  #18  
Old 05-20-2024, 08:08 AM
Marmaduke Marmaduke is offline
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
Last week, I had Mike Scott Plumbing replace the plastic push-pull valves on my 2 toilets with quarter turn metal valves. The total fixed cost was $213 ($69 for each valve plus a $75 trip charge). I know that some people have replaced every plastic valve in their house, and I also know there are cheaper ways to replace the valves. But, the toilets occasionally need to be repaired with a new gasket, or a new fill valve. Now, I know that I can turn off the water to the toilets and have more confidence that I will not encounter a leaking valve that would require the water to be shut down for the entire house. To me, the peace of mind was worth the cost.
We did the same, even though we had lots of other expenses when moving in to our resale house in TV.
We also changed everything out behind the refrigerator.
A slow leak back there is almost impossible to witness before affecting the drywall which can morph into mold/ mildew issues pretty quickly.

We had Mike Scott Plumbing do the work too. Ended up a very easy bill to pay for peace of mind.
  #19  
Old 05-20-2024, 09:13 AM
bshuler bshuler is offline
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A plumber in Missouri laughed at the pop off valves. Said they were for mobile homes. “Your builder probably got a great deal at an auction for these - or picked them up for nearly nothing”. (They still work fine after 25 years).

I used a shark bite on one when the braid wouldn’t reach a new toilet.

Train everyone in the house where the main shutoff is..
  #20  
Old 05-20-2024, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
Last week, I had Mike Scott Plumbing replace the plastic push-pull valves on my 2 toilets with quarter turn metal valves. The total fixed cost was $213 ($69 for each valve plus a $75 trip charge). I know that some people have replaced every plastic valve in their house, and I also know there are cheaper ways to replace the valves. But, the toilets occasionally need to be repaired with a new gasket, or a new fill valve. Now, I know that I can turn off the water to the toilets and have more confidence that I will not encounter a leaking valve that would require the water to be shut down for the entire house. To me, the peace of mind was worth the cost.
Why dont you just shut off the main water valve and have a double back up to no leaks
  #21  
Old 05-20-2024, 09:21 AM
bilcon bilcon is offline
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
Have you checked your expansion tank on top of the water heater? These only last about 7 years, and, if they fill up with water, the water pressure in the house can greatly increase, which can cause the push-pull valves to close. Use a screw driver to tap the top and bottom halves of the expansion tank. You should hear a dull thud sound when you tap the bottom half, and a hollow sound when you tap the top half.
My home was 14 years before I go a new hot water heater. I never had a problem and only replaced it because I also got a new A/C - heating system installed.
  #22  
Old 05-20-2024, 10:18 AM
retiredguy123 retiredguy123 is offline
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Originally Posted by bilcon View Post
My home was 14 years before I go a new hot water heater. I never had a problem and only replaced it because I also got a new A/C - heating system installed.
The expansion tank can fail and you may or may not have a water pressure issue. The expansion tank is designed to maintain a safe pressure in the event that you have thermal expansion or some other high pressure issue. So, you may have had a failed expansion tank years before you replaced the water heater. Expansion tanks usually do not last as long as the water heater tank.
  #23  
Old 05-20-2024, 01:21 PM
MrChipster MrChipster is offline
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Originally Posted by elevatorman View Post
I used these https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCra...X-C1/205214414 From Home Depot. They do not stock the 1/4 turn at the store they only stock full turn which cost less. You can order and have them delivered to the store. Or if your order is larger enough they will deliver to your home. They are not available at Lowes. Someone asked how long does it take to replace. Well what took me the longest time was draining the line. The toilet line is the lowest point in the piping. My suggestion is to shut the water off, open all faucets in the house, flush toilet and remove water from tank with sponge or vac, remove the toilet valves with a pan under each. Go somewhere and relax for awhile when the water stops dripping finish the job. My house had 14 valves and took 4 or 5 hrs to do. You also need supply lines $6 or $7 each. Another hint toilets and ice maker valves are easy. Before you even try to do a sink valve go under your sink and shut off one valve and disconnect a supply line, it is not as easy as it sounds. The older you get your body does not contort to the positions it may need to be in.
Keep the shop vac handy, remember to open the outside valves also and with the toilet valve removed place the business end of the vac over the pipe coming out of wall vacuum the water out. This will save a lot of time, and guarantee no water.


The other way is to have only one other distant valve open and suck the line clear. Assemble the new valve with the vacuum running this is the best way when you need to solder a joint water gets sucked away from the work area.
  #24  
Old 05-20-2024, 03:16 PM
Road Apple Road Apple is offline
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Good thread. Don’t panic, but we had a rental house down on Marco Island that had a faulty connector on the back of the toilet. Of course it broke and of course flooded for 3 days or so before our homewatch guy found it. 26K in damage.
Casually, the adjuster mentioned that there was a class action law suit going on against the connector maker, DuraPro. I looked into it. Sure enough, he was right. Long story short, I was awarded ~3K for my trouble. Better than nothing.
Next time your plumber stops by, you might ask him/her to check those.
  #25  
Old 05-20-2024, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
Last week, I had Mike Scott Plumbing replace the plastic push-pull valves on my 2 toilets with quarter turn metal valves. The total fixed cost was $213 ($69 for each valve plus a $75 trip charge). I know that some people have replaced every plastic valve in their house, and I also know there are cheaper ways to replace the valves. But, the toilets occasionally need to be repaired with a new gasket, or a new fill valve. Now, I know that I can turn off the water to the toilets and have more confidence that I will not encounter a leaking valve that would require the water to be shut down for the entire house. To me, the peace of mind was worth the cost.
We had every push/pull in the house changed; didn’t want to have a chance of failure while away from the house. Peace of mind.
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  #26  
Old 05-21-2024, 06:07 AM
Marathon Man Marathon Man is offline
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So, after reading all the posts, it seems to me that the valves are ok. No need to replace them, other than "I don't like them".
  #27  
Old 05-21-2024, 06:44 AM
retiredguy123 retiredguy123 is offline
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Originally Posted by Marathon Man View Post
So, after reading all the posts, it seems to me that the valves are ok. No need to replace them, other than "I don't like them".
Most plumbers would disagree. The one in my master bath worked, but you had to hold the pipe while pulling it out to turn it off, or the pipe would pull out of the wall about an inch or so. That was because the retaining clip behind the drywall was either loose or not installed at all. Very common. Also, a lot of people think that you turn the round plastic knob to turn it off. These people will never be able to turn off the valve because you need to pull it out to turn it off. Another issue is that some of the valves will turn off when there is a spike in water pressure. Too much pressure can cause the valve to automatically turn off. That being said, I do not plan to replace all 14 valves in my house because most of them will never need to be used. However, in my opinion, the builder should not install these valves on toilets that will definitely need to be used to replace the interior toilet parts and gaskets that need to be maintained.
  #28  
Old 05-21-2024, 09:09 AM
retiredguy123 retiredguy123 is offline
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Originally Posted by lookingtoo View Post
Why dont you just shut off the main water valve and have a double back up to no leaks
True, but it is common practice and code to have a shutoff valve at most plumbing fixtures. You especially need one when your toilet is clogged and overflowing. You don't want to run to the garage to turn off the main valve while your bathroom is flooding.
  #29  
Old 05-21-2024, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
Most plumbers would disagree. The one in my master bath worked, but you had to hold the pipe while pulling it out to turn it off, or the pipe would pull out of the wall about an inch or so. That was because the retaining clip behind the drywall was either loose or not installed at all. Very common. Also, a lot of people think that you turn the round plastic knob to turn it off. These people will never be able to turn off the valve because you need to pull it out to turn it off. Another issue is that some of the valves will turn off when there is a spike in water pressure. Too much pressure can cause the valve to automatically turn off. That being said, I do not plan to replace all 14 valves in my house because most of them will never need to be used. However, in my opinion, the builder should not install these valves on toilets that will definitely need to be used to replace the interior toilet parts and gaskets that need to be maintained.
I replaced my Accor valve and hose assembly due to age the vinyl hose (about 20 years) I used shark bite. The hardest part was getting Accor valve off. I watched several pressure tests with all types of valves and hoses, copper, pex, clued PVC, couple brands push on valves. Shark bite fails around 850 psi. That s about 7 times pressure than utilities water pressure. I highly doubt utility pressure get that high beings water heater blow off valve will blow around 150 PSI. If one of these blows off most likely from improperly installed. IMO over time all styles will corrode, deteriorate, and leak or fail. Some plumbers want run up bill naturally they will say replace anything. Bottom line to each his own and what ever eases the mind.
  #30  
Old 05-21-2024, 10:10 AM
retiredguy123 retiredguy123 is offline
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Originally Posted by Topspinmo View Post
I replaced my Accor valve and hose assembly due to age the vinyl hose (about 20 years) I used shark bite. The hardest part was getting Accor valve off. I watched several pressure tests with all types of valves and hoses, copper, pex, clued PVC, couple brands push on valves. Shark bite fails around 850 psi. That s about 7 times pressure than utilities water pressure. I highly doubt utility pressure get that high beings water heater blow off valve will blow around 150 PSI. If one of these blows off most likely from improperly installed. IMO over time all styles will corrode, deteriorate, and leak or fail. Some plumbers want run up bill naturally they will say replace anything. Bottom line to each his own and what ever eases the mind.
There have been several posts where Accor valves have closed due to high water pressure. Some people actually think that they are designed to close as a safety feature, but Accor denies it. So, the valves must have been defective.
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