[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Priebehouse

Can't agree with the "most have electric" comment. Maybe half. Above 466 where we live, most have gas. Between the sixes have electric, and below 466A have a mixture according to the realtors. We replaced our antique 40 Gal with external mounted tankless in our current house and the one we sold and are completely happy. No "EXTRA TIME FOR THE HOT WATER TO GET TO THE BATHROOMS". More efficient and no running out of hot water when our friends visit.

According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, approximately 88 to 90 percent of homes in The Villages have electric water heaters.

[Skip]

Originally Posted by merrymini

In my experience, the tanks now last about 10 years. I have been in my house 11 and replaced the tank already as a preventative measure. My neighbor had the tank spring a leak (it was in the garage of course) and it flooded the house destroying her kitchen cabinets. No thanks.

Here's a cheap $9 Leak Detector that will sound a loud alarm if the Water Heater starts to leak. Put it in the pan, lowest spot under the tank, on some clear packing tape if your pan is galvanized metal. It will wake you up if the tank starts to leak, even during the night. Then turn off the water main, drain the tank and shop for your replacement the next day. My pan is drained to outside the house, so little chance of flooding the garage. We turn off the water main when we are away for a few days. Takes the pressure off the tank - so not likely to leak while you're gone. I replaced the Whirlpool HWH at 21 years old when TECO offered a good rebate. May have lasted 5 more years. Who knows?

LINK: Amazon Search: "TECKNET Water Leak Detectors for Home"

Not a brand recommendation, just a suggestion.

Skip

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Skip

Here's a cheap $9 Leak Detector that will sound a loud alarm if the Water Heater starts to leak. Put it in the pan, lowest spot under the tank, on some clear packing tape if your pan is galvanized metal. It will wake you up if the tank starts to leak, even during the night. Then turn off the water main, drain the tank and shop for your replacement the next day. My pan is drained to outside the house, so little chance of flooding the garage. We turn off the water main when we are away for a few days. Takes the pressure off the tank - so not likely to leak while you're gone. I replaced the Whirlpool HWH at 21 years old when TECO offered a good rebate. May have lasted 5 more years. Who knows?

LINK: Amazon Search: "TECKNET Water Leak Detectors for Home"

Not a brand recommendation, just a suggestion.

Skip

I have been using these battery-operated water alarms in my house for about 10 years. I have about 8 of them. So far, they have detected a leak in my expansion tank and in my garbage disposal.

Geevon 2 Pack Water Leak Detectors, 100dB Water Sensor Alarms Flood Detector for Basements, Bathrooms, Laundry Rooms, Kitchens, Garages, and Attics, Water Alarms Battery-Operated (Battery Included) - Amazon.com

I would also add that, if your water heater starts to leak, you may not need to turn off the water main. My house has a valve that shuts off the cold water supply pipe to the water heater. If you close that valve, you will shut off your hot water, but you will still have cold water in the house.

[merrymini]

You can shut the water off to your house but the tank has 40 gallons in it and that will leak out. I also turn off the water when I leave and most water heaters have pans with drains but you do not know if they work properly when needed until you find out it doesn’t.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by merrymini

You can shut the water off to your house but the tank has 40 gallons in it and that will leak out. I also turn off the water when I leave and most water heaters have pans with drains but you do not know if they work properly when needed until you find out it doesn’t.

My water heater is in the garage, so I think 40 gallons would just drain out under the garage door and cause very little damage. If my water heater was located inside the house, I may consider pouring some water into the drain pan periodically to see if it drains properly.

[lawgolfer]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

My water heater about 6 years old. I was thinking about replacing the anode rod. Not that hard IF you access and can get to it? In my case nearly impossible to get to it to get break it loose with all the piping in road plus less than 19 “ from top of tank to ceiling. (Maybe my impact gun could fit on it? I’ll have to get closer look to see?). Which if I could get it loose I could pull it up cut and pull it up till got solid rod out.

If I accomplish than I could get the collapsing anode rod and feed the section down into tank. In my situation I would probably have to drain tank disconnect it heave it down to floor. Then there problem getting rod broke loose without the weight water helping hold tank while I’m using extension on break bar to get it loose. IMO in my case not worth effort?

Anode rod procedure explained

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IUNIUZz4Os

The collapsing anode rod.

Error Page


Added, if I do mine I’m going to borescope tank see what inside and bottom looks like, being I have borescope camera.

Apply a good penetrating oil around the hex nut for two or three days.

Next turn off the water at the inlet and open the nearest faucet to relieve the pressure.Then remove the flexible exhaust tubing. If this doesn't give you enough access to the hex nut, remove the two flex water lines. You should now have unimpeded access to the hex nut.

Hit the hex nut a couple of times with a hammer. This will help break it free. Put on the socket with a long "breaker bar". I recommend the breaker bar instead of a ratchet as you can destroy a ratchet if you use an extension on the handle, which you will have to do.

If this doesn't work, use a propane torch to heat the nex nut. This can get nasty as you will be burning off the penetrating oil.

Don't worry about being able to remove the old anode due to only having 19" of clearance from the ceiling. The original anode should be completely used up by this time and all that should remain will be a 1/8" steel rod which was the core around which the aluminum or magnesium was formed. It will easily bend to allow it to be pulled from the tank.

The best replacement anode uses a flexible cable to connect the links. Cheaper ones just have narrowed points at several spots along the rod. As the narrowed points are the same aluminum or magnesium, they will soon be destroyed and the thicker links will fall to the bottom. Thus, if necessary to get the new rod in the tank, you can break off a link or two and just drop them into the tank.

Reassemble the parts. If you took the water lines off to gain access to the hex nut, install new washers in the end of the lines. Put several wraps of teflon tape on the stubouts for the water lines and around the threads of the new anode.

Finally, use a marker to write the date the new anode was installed. I'd replace the anode after three years. If the anode is not fully consumed in three years, go ahead and install a new one and then replace it at either four or five years, depending on how much of the first one was consumed after three years.

Following this routine and you'll get years of service from a water heater. Our heater up north was going strong at 27 years when we sold the house. The one in The Villages is original and was installed in 2004.

The other thing that allows you to keep a water heater in service for many years is to have a water softener. A softener prevents calcium (limestone) from building up in the tank in the same way it prevents white deposits building up on your shower heads and faucet aerators. A softener is probably more important when you have an electric heater as calcium buildup on the heating elements restricts the transfer of heat from the element to the water.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by lawgolfer

Apply a good penetrating oil around the hex nut for two or three days.

Next turn off the water at the inlet and open the nearest faucet to relieve the pressure.Then remove the flexible exhaust tubing. If this doesn't give you enough access to the hex nut, remove the two flex water lines. You should now have unimpeded access to the hex nut.

Hit the hex nut a couple of times with a hammer. This will help break it free. Put on the socket with a long "breaker bar". I recommend the breaker bar instead of a ratchet as you can destroy a ratchet if you use an extension on the handle, which you will have to do.

If this doesn't work, use a propane torch to heat the nex nut. This can get nasty as you will be burning off the penetrating oil.

Don't worry about being able to remove the old anode due to only having 19" of clearance from the ceiling. The original anode should be completely used up by this time and all that should remain will be a 1/8" steel rod which was the core around which the aluminum or magnesium was formed. It will easily bend to allow it to be pulled from the tank.

The best replacement anode uses a flexible cable to connect the links. Cheaper ones just have narrowed points at several spots along the rod. As the narrowed points are the same aluminum or magnesium, they will soon be destroyed and the thicker links will fall to the bottom. Thus, if necessary to get the new rod in the tank, you can break off a link or two and just drop them into the tank.

Reassemble the parts. If you took the water lines off to gain access to the hex nut, install new washers in the end of the lines. Put several wraps of teflon tape on the stubouts for the water lines and around the threads of the new anode.

Finally, use a marker to write the date the new anode was installed. I'd replace the anode after three years. If the anode is not fully consumed in three years, go ahead and install a new one and then replace it at either four or five years, depending on how much of the first one was consumed after three years.

Following this routine and you'll get years of service from a water heater. Our heater up north was going strong at 27 years when we sold the house. The one in The Villages is original and was installed in 2004.

The other thing that allows you to keep a water heater in service for many years is to have a water softener. A softener prevents calcium (limestone) from building up in the tank in the same way it prevents white deposits building up on your shower heads and faucet aerators. A softener is probably more important when you have an electric heater as calcium buildup on the heating elements restricts the transfer of heat from the element to the water.

Thank you!

[lawgolfer]

Originally Posted by Bill14564

I would use the impact gun and not even try with the breaker bar. The problem with the breaker bar is you could put a strain on the pipes or it might break free and the bar slips and hits the pipes. The impact gun poses neither of those problems.

The video I watched on doing this in a tight space used vise grips to hold the rod partially out of the tank and a hacksaw to cut the exposed portion off then pull more out and repeat. Apparently you can purchase a replacement rod that comes in threaded segments that you piece together as it goes into the tank.

All that said, my last electric tank lasted 20+ years before I replaced it prior to selling the house. Maybe I got lucky then. Hopefully I'll be just as lucky now. We'll see.

Victor,
The OP will have to remove the large flex tube that serves as the exhaust pipe to get to the hex nut. It would be best if he also removed the in/out flexible water lines to avoid the problem you outlined should something slip.

I doubt that any impact wrench/gun a homeowner has will work. The socket that fits the hex nut is 27mm and uses a 1/2" drive. My Ryobi impact wrench is a 3/8" drive. I've seen adapters that are 1/2"female to 3/8" male, but not the opposite. Probably, there is one, but I doubt it can be found at a local store. If the OP can find such an adapter or a 27mm socket with a 3/8" drive, I still doubt that any impact wrench a homeowner is likely to have will be powerful enough to break the hex nut free.

I've changed at least 6 anodes over the past 25 years. For each one, I had to use an 18" breaker bar inside a 24"+ galvanized pipe to get enough leverage to turn the hex nut. The problem is that the factory does not put teflon tape dope on the threads and the hex is screwed into a threaded hole that is either cast or drilled into a cast iron tank. In the absence of tape dope or grease, the threads in the cast iron will rust. That's why it is necessary to soak the fitting in penetrating oil for several days before attempting to turn the hex nut. It is also the reason why you want to put several turns of teflon tape dope on the threads of the new anode.

I haven't seen the video where a vice grips is used to hold the "core" of the old anode while it is cut with a hacksaw. However, I don't know why this would be necessary. The anode installed at the factory will not be in segments. Instead, it will have a 1/8" steel rod as a core around which the aluminum or magnesium is cast. Over the years, as the aluminum or magnesium is eroded or eaten away, the steel rod is exposed. It bends as if it was a coat hanger. Once the hex nut has been removed, you pull up the attached rod and bend it as needed to extract it from the tank.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by lawgolfer

Victor,
The OP will have to remove the large flex tube that serves as the exhaust pipe to get to the hex nut. It would be best if he also removed the in/out flexible water lines to avoid the problem you outlined should something slip.

I doubt that any impact wrench/gun a homeowner has will work. The socket that fits the hex nut is 27mm and uses a 1/2" drive. My Ryobi impact wrench is a 3/8" drive. I've seen adapters that are 1/2"female to 3/8" male, but not the opposite. Probably, there is one, but I doubt it can be found at a local store. If the OP can find such an adapter or a 27mm socket with a 3/8" drive, I still doubt that any impact wrench a homeowner is likely to have will be powerful enough to break the hex nut free.

I've changed at least 6 anodes over the past 25 years. For each one, I had to use an 18" breaker bar inside a 24"+ galvanized pipe to get enough leverage to turn the hex nut. The problem is that the factory does not put teflon tape dope on the threads and the hex is screwed into a threaded hole that is either cast or drilled into a cast iron tank. In the absence of tape dope or grease, the threads in the cast iron will rust. That's why it is necessary to soak the fitting in penetrating oil for several days before attempting to turn the hex nut. It is also the reason why you want to put several turns of teflon tape dope on the threads of the new anode.

I haven't seen the video where a vice grips is used to hold the "core" of the old anode while it is cut with a hacksaw. However, I don't know why this would be necessary. The anode installed at the factory will not be in segments. Instead, it will have a 1/8" steel rod as a core around which the aluminum or magnesium is cast. Over the years, as the aluminum or magnesium is eroded or eaten away, the steel rod is exposed. It bends as if it was a coat hanger. Once the hex nut has been removed, you pull up the attached rod and bend it as needed to extract it from the tank.

My impact gun has 250 to 300 Ft pounds torque. I can get socket straight down on it. I have bolt cutter also. If impact gun won’t break it loose it be non project.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, approximately 88 to 90 percent of homes in The Villages have electric water heaters.

I wish mine was one of them..

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by lawgolfer

Apply a good penetrating oil around the hex nut for two or three days.

Next turn off the water at the inlet and open the nearest faucet to relieve the pressure.Then remove the flexible exhaust tubing. If this doesn't give you enough access to the hex nut, remove the two flex water lines. You should now have unimpeded access to the hex nut.

Hit the hex nut a couple of times with a hammer. This will help break it free. Put on the socket with a long "breaker bar". I recommend the breaker bar instead of a ratchet as you can destroy a ratchet if you use an extension on the handle, which you will have to do.

If this doesn't work, use a propane torch to heat the nex nut. This can get nasty as you will be burning off the penetrating oil.

Don't worry about being able to remove the old anode due to only having 19" of clearance from the ceiling. The original anode should be completely used up by this time and all that should remain will be a 1/8" steel rod which was the core around which the aluminum or magnesium was formed. It will easily bend to allow it to be pulled from the tank.

The best replacement anode uses a flexible cable to connect the links. Cheaper ones just have narrowed points at several spots along the rod. As the narrowed points are the same aluminum or magnesium, they will soon be destroyed and the thicker links will fall to the bottom. Thus, if necessary to get the new rod in the tank, you can break off a link or two and just drop them into the tank.

Reassemble the parts. If you took the water lines off to gain access to the hex nut, install new washers in the end of the lines. Put several wraps of teflon tape on the stubouts for the water lines and around the threads of the new anode.

Finally, use a marker to write the date the new anode was installed. I'd replace the anode after three years. If the anode is not fully consumed in three years, go ahead and install a new one and then replace it at either four or five years, depending on how much of the first one was consumed after three years.

Following this routine and you'll get years of service from a water heater. Our heater up north was going strong at 27 years when we sold the house. The one in The Villages is original and was installed in 2004.

The other thing that allows you to keep a water heater in service for many years is to have a water softener. A softener prevents calcium (limestone) from building up in the tank in the same way it prevents white deposits building up on your shower heads and faucet aerators. A softener is probably more important when you have an electric heater as calcium buildup on the heating elements restricts the transfer of heat from the element to the water.

I need good excuse to get bigger impact gun….

https://www.amazon.com/MAGSEN-Cordle...15&sr=8-7&th=1

This one should do it?

[thevillagernie]

Originally Posted by Bill14564

I would use the impact gun and not even try with the breaker bar. The problem with the breaker bar is you could put a strain on the pipes or it might break free and the bar slips and hits the pipes. The impact gun poses neither of those problems.

The video I watched on doing this in a tight space used vise grips to hold the rod partially out of the tank and a hacksaw to cut the exposed portion off then pull more out and repeat. Apparently you can purchase a replacement rod that comes in threaded segments that you piece together as it goes into the tank.

All that said, my last electric tank lasted 20+ years before I replaced it prior to selling the house. Maybe I got lucky then. Hopefully I'll be just as lucky now. We'll see.

don't be afraid to bend it if there is anything left of it...and bend it to get it in...

[lawgolfer]

Originally Posted by Topspinmo

I need good excuse to get bigger impact gun….

https://www.amazon.com/MAGSEN-Cordle...15&sr=8-7&th=1

This one should do it?

It should, although I would like it to have a handle on the side of the gun to deal with the torque. As an aside, there is one brand of gas water heater (maybe Bradford White) which does not have dedicated hole in the tank for the anode. Instead, the anode is part of the outlet. It is very difficult to change the anode in such a water heater as you have to use a pipe wrench on the top of the outlet tube, which will quickly crush under the load. Years ago, I changed the anode on one of these tanks. I feared that I would have to buy a new heater as I couldn't get the tube out and I couldn't reattach the flex line as I had damaged the threads. I solved the problem by inserting a large bolt inside the outlet pipe which prevented the pipe from being crushed and by heating the pipe at the point it screwed into the tank with a propane torch. If I again come upon a tank with the anode being the outlet pipe, I doubt that I'll bother changing the anode.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by lawgolfer

It should, although I would like it to have a handle on the side of the gun to deal with the torque. As an aside, there is one brand of gas water heater (maybe Bradford White) which does not have dedicated hole in the tank for the anode. Instead, the anode is part of the outlet. It is very difficult to change the anode in such a water heater as you have to use a pipe wrench on the top of the outlet tube, which will quickly crush under the load. Years ago, I changed the anode on one of these tanks. I feared that I would have to buy a new heater as I couldn't get the tube out and I couldn't reattach the flex line as I had damaged the threads. I solved the problem by inserting a large bolt inside the outlet pipe which prevented the pipe from being crushed and by heating the pipe at the point it screwed into the tank with a propane torch. If I again come upon a tank with the anode being the outlet pipe, I doubt that I'll bother changing the anode.

The torque in the hammering mechanism, agree have to have good grip on it but tool does most of jolting loose. My tank has separate hole for anode rod, I have straight shot at it only problem is no height clearance (which shouldn’t be problem)or side clearance. I have little over 6 years on this heater. I should have thought about this couple years ago? I gathering estimates on parts to switch to electric maybe when I need replacement course I’ll have licensed electrician make hook up at panel I should be able to run wire secure it and mount plug in one wall by where heater at. I need about 27 feet wire from panel to reach water heater.

Added

After researching options not worth effort, if and when I replace this one I’ll make sure installer installed it so I can get anode out, might consider “short” gas water heater which 51 inch tall and 21 inch around. Which would make it much easier access to anode rod