[ithos]

I replaced my anode rod recently and flushed the tank. The water was very clear and the anode rod was mostly in tact.
I think it is a waste of money to replace a water tank if it is in good shape.
Highly recommend getting a steel drain pan. Can get one on Amazon for $40.
You will need an impact wrench and a very stable platform to stand on to replace the drain pan. I did it myself but you will need help unless you are in good shape.
Amazon.com
Amazon.com

[jrref]

Originally Posted by ithos

I replaced my anode rod recently and flushed the tank. The water was very clear and the anode rod was mostly in tact.
I think it is a waste of money to replace a water tank if it is in good shape.
Highly recommend getting a stainless steel drain pan. Can get one on Amazon for $40.
You will need an impact wrench and a very stable platform to stand on to replace the drain pan. I did it myself but you will need help unless you are in good shape.
Amazon.com
Amazon.com

For those able to change the anode rod several of us have used this and it works well. You will need to run electric by your water heater but some have it already. You can always get an electrician to run a new outlet. Since your heater should be near the electric panel, the job shouldn't be too expensive.

Corro-Protec Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater, 20-Year Warranty, Eliminates Rotten Egg/Sulfur Smell within 24 hours, Stops Corrosion and Reduces Limescale, Electrical Anode Rod Made of Titanium - Amazon.com

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by ithos

I replaced my anode rod recently and flushed the tank. The water was very clear and the anode rod was mostly in tact.
I think it is a waste of money to replace a water tank if it is in good shape.
Highly recommend getting a stainless steel drain pan. Can get one on Amazon for $40.
You will need an impact wrench and a very stable platform to stand on to replace the drain pan. I did it myself but you will need help unless you are in good shape.
Amazon.com
Amazon.com

The link you provided is for a galvanized steel pan for $50, not stainless steel. What is wrong with the round plastic pan that the builder installs?

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by New Englander

Please describe your method of flushing your tank.

You can drain the water heater but you cannot actually "flush" it because the drain valve is way too small to get any flushing action. The Rheem manual doesn't recommend ever draining or flushing the entire tank. Opening the drain valve can cause the valve to start leaking because of lime deposits that accumulate in the valve. Personally, I don't think you will remove much of the sediment by draining the tank.

[ithos]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

The link you provided is for a galvanized steel pan for $50, not stainless steel. What is wrong with the round plastic pan that the builder installs?

Sorry about that. You don't need SS since it should rarely be exposed to water. It would also be alot more expensive.

[ithos]

This is the $2 drain pan that Mike Scott Plumbing used when installing the water heater. It broke apart like peanut brittle. It was so small that I couldn't even connect a water hose to the bibb to drain it. Actually it probably cost $12 but still not the quality I would expect from a reputable company.

[ithos]

In case it hasn't already been brought up, you can get instant hot water much cheaper than installing a tankless water heater.
Watts Hot Water Recirculating Pump Installation
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...rculating+pump

It should also save money if you put a timer on it.

[ithos]

Fortunately I had a very strong table to set the water heater on. It was a little bit of effort to get it back in the pan but the sides of it were strong enough to support the weight when putting the water heater back in. I've couldn't have done that with plastic.

[Skip]

Originally Posted by jrref

Thanks for the very accurate information. Yes, when I replaced my anode rod with the electronic type, my neighbors came over and using a breaker bar and all other types of tools we finally got the rod loose and out. This is why a plumber asks so much to do this service. It's not easy.

ANODE REMOVAL: Yes, penetrating oil on the top of the old rod, 24 hours prior, does help. Impact wrench is one way that works well. Long Breaker Bar plus a 2-3 foot piece of iron pipe over the handle gives you the extra leverage you need. The tank should be near full but not pressurized when you try to get the old one free. The weight helps stabilize the tank. The house water must be OFF. Drain a few ounces to eliminate the tank pressure. The old Anode will break free with moderate force at a 3 foot torque moment. Remove the old rod straight up carefully not to chip off any junky deposits. New simple Anodes are about $25 (some are 3 section flexible if you are too close to s ceiling) and come with the 27mm Socket and Teflon Tape. When applying Tape to the new threads, only cover the top half of the threads to allow the other threads to be grounded in the tank's threaded fitting. Tighten with a breaker bar and check for leaks there the next day.

FLUSHING: Turn the control to Pilot (Gas) or Off (Electric). Turn off the house water. Attach a garden hose to the drain and run it out to your driveway or other place where hot water won't matter. Open the drain fully - you may need a 7/16" socket if there is no knob. Crack open a faucet in your utility room to allow air in. The 40 gallons of hot water will drain in a few minutes. Close the faucet in the utility room. With the drain still open full, turn on the house water slowly. The cold water will fill and flush most of the sediment from inside the tank. Allow to run for a few minutes. Close the drain. Open the house water to full open. Open the utility room faucet very slowly to allow air to escape. Turn the control back to normal heat. Do this every 1-2 years and save a lot of money. Sediment is what makes that gurgling sound when the heater is running.

PAN: Every heater should be on a pan that drains to the outside of the house. Look in the pan at least once per week to make sure there is no water, signifying the hot water heater needs to be replaced. I have a battery operated wet alarm in my pan. If the tank leaks, the alarm will beep loudly and let me know, IT'S TIME !

Skip

[ithos]

If you are working by yourself and have never done it before, get the impact wrench(or rent one). It takes 1-2 seconds to come off. You are a master if you can remove it by your self with straps and torque wrenches. Even with a helper it will be a major hassle.

[Dexterconfetti]

I live north of 466A and I replaced every gas appliance I had with electric and I have not been disappointed. I especially like not having to pay the monthly TECO fee when I am out of town during the summer months.

[John Sarubbi]

We replaced our 40 gal with a 50 gal a few years ago for $1025.00 by Dove Plumbing of Wildwood, Fl. Did an excellent job and was much cheaper than all the plumbers trucks you see here in The Villages.

[New Englander]

Originally Posted by John Sarubbi

We replaced our 40 gal with a 50 gal a few years ago for $1025.00 by Dove Plumbing of Wildwood, Fl. Did an excellent job and was much cheaper than all the plumbers trucks you see here in The Villages.

That was a few years ago. The price may have increased a bit.

[New Englander]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

You can drain the water heater, but you cannot actually "flush" it because the drain valve is way too small to get any flushing action. The Rheem manual doesn't recommend ever draining or flushing the entire tank. Opening the drain valve can cause the valve to start leaking because of lime deposits that accumulate in the valve. Personally, I don't think you will remove much of the sediment by draining the tank.

Well, the tank I replaced yesterday was never drained and was not leaking Yet. The anode rod was original. Twelve years on a basic water heater is pretty darn good. The new tank is about the same as the original. The plumber did an excellent job as well. Nice and neat work and took the old tank away.

[ithos]

There are plenty of youtube videos that demonstrate how to replace a water heater. The one thing not mentioned is to support the pvc lines before disconnecting them. Most likely the damage would be inside the drywall.