Code Change for enclosed Lanai

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Old 09-02-2010, 07:51 PM
dar118 dar118 is offline
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Default Code Change for enclosed Lanai

We want to enclose our lanai and have just had several estimates on enclosing it. We have been told that the Florida Code has been changed and if we put in glass we would not have to pay any additional taxes as long as we don't run A/C duct into the room. However we would have to put a light outside the lanai door. Has anyone else heard this or been told this as well? We are also trying to decide between glass low e windows or the acrylic? Our concern is over time 7-10yrs. will the acyrlic windows discolored, get small cracks, or bow. Has anyone had this problem with the acyrlic windows? I don't want to be replacing windows down the road.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:39 PM
NormaJean NormaJean is offline
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Default Lanai Enclosure

We just went through the same thing you are going through, however we decided not to enclose our lanai. We were going to enclose the lanai with Florida low-e glass slider windows as we were told that they were more durable. We were also told about the increase in taxes if we put in air/heat, however check and see what your Warranty Office says. We were also going to put on a 18 by 16 room and our taxes were only going up $500 a year...well worth the money. Since we also were going to add on, we needed to check and see if our air/heating unit would support the addition. Don't know how truthful the person was, but we needed to buy a bigger unit to support the addition or put on a special unit on just the addition. Good luck in your decision, but in my opinion, I would go with the low-e glass. A little bit more, but the rewards are greater.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:09 PM
784caroline 784caroline is offline
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the amount of extra taxes you may pay should not be a major factor in what will provide you the comfort you would enjoy by adding any addition to your home. Any tax increase would be minimal since you are already paying taxes on the lanai itself. DONOT go with acrylic...it may be cheaper now but you will be sorry in the long run.

We just enclosed our lanai and took out the sliding glass doors PLUS we added a 150 sq ft room off the master bedroom that also attaches itself to teh enclosed lanai. We were able to use our exisiting heat/AC unit and just added duct work directly from the furnace area. DONOT accept any contract that simply wants to extend the duct work from your family area to the lanai. So in total we added approx 400-410 sq ft to our heat ac system and it is handling it fine. We enclosed the lanai with low e windows.

If you need additional information send me a PM.

Last edited by 784caroline; 09-02-2010 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:14 PM
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Are these some changes that can be made prior to construction or are they after closing?
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:30 PM
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I am in the middle of a like process. We went with the low-E glass. The low-E should save a few bucks on energy. I put windows in a veranda in our Ohio house 6-7 years ago, going with low-E glass, and it was the right move. We got the same story on the light outside. I am hoping the low-E glass and a ceiling fan will be all that we need, climate control-wise. We are a week away from putting the glass in, screens are gone and infrastructure is ready. Gotta sort out what to do with the cement floor now, leaning toward ceramic tile on a 45.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:20 PM
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Default A/C

If u want to make sure u have a big enough A/C unit, go on to the internet and search A/C size ( 3 ton, 4 ton, etc. ) versus the square feet of the interior of ur house. If it is too small it will run constantly and freeze up on u.
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:53 AM
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Enclosed our lanai over two years ago with double pane glass. Did not install heat/air. At the same time we added a large bird cage. We had a visit from the property appraiser's office shortly after the job was done. He specifically targeted the bird cage and said there was no additional tax on the lanai.

During the hot summer months we do not use the enclosed lanai. It is great in the spring and fall, and we continue to use it in the winter with a small portable heater. I don't think our existing AC unit could handle the additional square footage.

The outdoor light was necessary but we already had installed one when we had some other electrical work done.
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:13 AM
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Thanks everyone for you suggestions. I still want to know if anyone who has Acrylic windows have had problems with the acrylic windows over the 7-10 years time. We don't want to replace windows over time due to the acrylics getting cloudy, cracks, spider vines, and the windows bowing. If this is the case we think Low e are the best bet and would go that route. We have 3 quotes so far but of 2 are suggesting acrylic and 1 for low e?
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dar118 View Post
Thanks everyone for you suggestions. I still want to know if anyone who has Acrylic windows have had problems with the acrylic windows over the 7-10 years time. We don't want to replace windows over time due to the acrylics getting cloudy, cracks, spider vines, and the windows bowing. If this is the case we think Low e are the best bet and would go that route. We have 3 quotes so far but of 2 are suggesting acrylic and 1 for low e?
Was there a sugnificant cost difference between acrylic and Low-e?
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:48 AM
784caroline 784caroline is offline
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You need not only be concerned about replacing acrylic windows due to discoloring in 7-10 years, (you will have discoloring and scratches) but there are other issues. WE live in FLorida and we should prepare for hurricanes. Acrylic windows are only rated for approx 70 MPH where glass is required to be rated to withstand winds up to approx 110MPH. IN fact if winds are expected to exceed 70mph, I believe it is recommended you remove the acrylic windows. If you have any western exposure on your lanai (to any degree) you want low-E windows for the insulation it provides. LOW E windows decrease the temperature within a room signnificantly compared to standard windows while acrylic windows offer very little insulation. The same holds true with noise reduction if you back to a road. The cost factor should NOT be be significantly higher to use windows vs acrylic.

As part of the permit process, our general contractor was required to do a heat/AC energy analysis. This review was done by MUNNS, and considers the furnace/AC unit (size) we currently have, the positioning of our home (in relation to the setting sun) and the location/size of the addition we plan to add, The windows and type we plan to install and again the geographic exposure the windows will have. NOt all windows are created equal..not even all low e windows and this energgy review is only good for specific types of windows used..ie heat gain, energy loss, translucent factor etc. We added 400 sq ft to our exisiting AC/Heat and our back has a NNW exposure. Again I would not accept a contractor who is simply going to tap off your family room AC ductwork. Cheaper yes but you will not be happy for you will be stealing needed heat/ac from you family room to heat/cool your lanai area. We added a direct line from the furnace and then added an exchange box in the attic leading to 4 vents in our lanai / addition. It works great with only a modest incerase in electic cost.maybe $10 a month.
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