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Cold Water Valve pops out on its own

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  #31  
Old 11-16-2022, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by laboutj View Post
As others have stated it's probably the expansion tank on the hot water heater. I also swapped out those pop-out shutoffs with shark bite shutoffs when I swapped out our bathroom sinks. I don't trust those things.
Absolutely change those cheap junk valves!!!
  #32  
Old 11-16-2022, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by n8xwb View Post
Comparing my using a cable tie to replacing a fuse with a piece of wire is not a fair comparison.

The water valve is not a safety device. It is simply placed where it is as a matter of convenience. If you didn't have such a valve and you needed to replace a sink (or toilet) you would have to turn the water off to the entire house.

My villa does not even have an expansion tank. So clearly some of my valves may be getting a little weaker with age and occasionally pop off. Sure, I could replace them, or perhaps unstall an expansion tank which is not required, but why bother spending the money? My solution has worked flawlessly for years AND I haven't even had to use any of the valves in question! So, I haven't had to cut and replace any cable ties!!
Ok makes sense except……

It is Florida code since 2000 I believe that it is mandatory here to have an expansion tank unless you have a tankless water heater..

Basically most homes built south of 466 and north of 44 have expansion tanks. And a few neighborhoods south of 44.
If you do not have an expansion tank on top of your hot water tank then you have a thermal expansion valve and they can also fail in fact most homes over 10 years those thermal expansion valves are leaking and most plumbers will come in and replace them with an expansion tank because it’s Florida code now.

I don’t like the expansion tanks because they fail constantly between three and five years. But you can’t fight Florida code. I personally think it’s an extremely poor design and every single home we do service on with we check the expansion tank and approximately 70% we find bad that are more than 3 to 5 years old. I believe they were improperly installed from day one because they never pressurize those tanks correctly therefore failing prematurely.

Step 1. Pressurize the tank before installation to the house pressure.

I have seen several plumbers in fact some of the main plumbers in the villages that do not do this? They take it off the shelf at 25 psi slap it on and they fail in three years? Now your expansion tank Brand New and is 50 psi below the operating pressure so of course it will fail prematurely.
  #33  
Old 11-16-2022, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TVJim View Post
You DO NEED the expansion tank, there is a check valve in the line between your house and the street. When the water heater cycles the expansion tank suppresses the pressure of the expanding heated water.

Have a plumber change out the expansion tank and replace all the shutoff valves while they are there.
You couldn’t be more right but some people ignore it and pay the price. It is so important to check your expansion tank annually just Google it it’s simple.
  #34  
Old 11-16-2022, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by elevatorman View Post
This is true unless you have a tankless water heater, According to the 2018 International Plumbing Code (IPC) section 608.3, tankless water heaters do not require a thermal expansion tank when no water storage device is used. However, there are a few exceptions. If a tankless water heater is being used in conjunction with a tank water heater or a recirculating system that utilizes a storage tank in a closed plumbing system, an expansion tank is required to control thermal expansion.This does not apply directly to most homeowners who have a tankless water heater system.
Correct but keep in mind The water authority pressure can fluctuate anywhere between 20 and 40 psi randomly especially when they’re flushing out the lines in your neighborhood.
  #35  
Old 11-16-2022, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by midiwiz View Post
that works? interesting.... I wonder how the CPVC is handling the additional pressure .....
The cpvc shouldn’t be the concern. What is of concern are the plumbing fitting in your house it’s always possible for a leak especially when the pressure gets too high.

The expansion tank is designed to handle the thermal expansion of water as it heats up in the water heater, preventing excessive water pressure in your home. If the water pressure gets too high it can damage valves and plumbing fixtures, joints and supply pipes and the water heater it’s self.

Bottom line if your expansion tank is more than five years old and it tests good , replace it don’t wait for the failure.
  #36  
Old 11-16-2022, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Brad-tv View Post
The cpvc shouldn’t be the concern. What is of concern are the plumbing fitting in your house it’s always possible for a leak especially when the pressure gets too high.

The expansion tank is designed to handle the thermal expansion of water as it heats up in the water heater, preventing excessive water pressure in your home. If the water pressure gets too high it can damage valves and plumbing fixtures, joints and supply pipes and the water heater it’s self.

Bottom line if your expansion tank is more than five years old and it tests good , replace it don’t wait for the failure.

I really didn't need the plumbing lesson , it was more of a "wtf is that crap" with drilling a hole and a zip tie.... plus a hit on 'the developer' using CPVC.... which we all should know gives out fairly easily.


but thanks for thinking I didn't know that already...... appreciate it.
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Old 11-16-2022, 08:10 AM
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Replace them with better ones. Worth the $$$.
  #38  
Old 11-16-2022, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by TVJim View Post
You DO NEED the expansion tank, there is a check valve in the line between your house and the street. When the water heater cycles the expansion tank suppresses the pressure of the expanding heated water.

Have a plumber change out the expansion tank and replace all the shutoff valves while they are there.
I agree. Note that if you don't have an expansion tank, when you replace your water heater, you should pay the extra money to have the plumber install one. And, if you are getting competitive quotes, some plumbers will include the expansion tank, and some will not. You need to ask, so you are comparing "apples to apples" in the quotes. Even though the code requires an expansion tank for new installs, some plumbers will not automatically install one. They will claim that they are doing a "repair", not a new install, so the code requirement does not apply. This is a gray area loophole in the code.
  #39  
Old 11-16-2022, 08:43 AM
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Put a picture of the valve so a plumber can see what it looks like what you discribe makes no sense
  #40  
Old 11-20-2022, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n8xwb View Post
Comparing my using a cable tie to replacing a fuse with a piece of wire is not a fair comparison.

The water valve is not a safety device. It is simply placed where it is as a matter of convenience. If you didn't have such a valve and you needed to replace a sink (or toilet) you would have to turn the water off to the entire house.

My villa does not even have an expansion tank. So clearly some of my valves may be getting a little weaker with age and occasionally pop off. Sure, I could replace them, or perhaps unstall an expansion tank which is not required, but why bother spending the money? My solution has worked flawlessly for years AND I haven't even had to use any of the valves in question! So, I haven't had to cut and replace any cable ties!!
Some people will argue about anything. My OPINION, if, you or relatives sell that place no one will buy it without the seller putting it right.
  #41  
Old 11-21-2022, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by tophcfa View Post
Those button valves are a cheap piece of crap. One failed and flooded our neighbors house and another one leaked and damaged our friends home. Fortunately, our home was renovated before we purchased it and the renovations included new ADA height toilets with new throw valves on the feeder lines. Replacement of those button valves should be on the to do list if you ever need to hire a plumber.
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I was recently quoted around $2000 to replace all the valves, approximately 9 in a patio villa. That is crazy expensive. Does anyone know of a plumber or plumbing company that will do this job for less. I just can't believe how much it costs to replace the junk they used in these houses.
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  #42  
Old 11-21-2022, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Jerseygirl08 View Post
.
I was recently quoted around $2000 to replace all the valves, approximately 9 in a patio villa. That is crazy expensive. Does anyone know of a plumber or plumbing company that will do this job for less. I just can't believe how much it costs to replace the junk they used in these houses.
I stopped by the Wildwood ACE hardware store with some plumbing questions, and the very helpful person told my hold to replace these myself, also referenced some youtube videos. I am planning on doing this if we start to have any problems with the original valves.
OP, you may be able to find a handyman to do this for you.
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  #43  
Old 11-21-2022, 09:18 AM
laboutj laboutj is offline
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Originally Posted by villagetinker View Post
I stopped by the Wildwood ACE hardware store with some plumbing questions, and the very helpful person told my hold to replace these myself, also referenced some youtube videos. I am planning on doing this if we start to have any problems with the original valves.
OP, you may be able to find a handyman to do this for you.
I was forced to change them out when I decided to install new faucets in the bathrooms. The shark bite shutoffs were about $12 apiece at Lowes. You would also have to swap out the lines from the faucets to the new shutoffs. It is really simple, I shut off the main water supply coming into the house and then turned on some faucets to relieve the pressure. I used a sawzall to make a cut into the shutoff valve and then placed a screwdriver into the slot I created. Twist with the screwdriver and it cracks open like shucking an oyster. Do NOT cut the water line behind the shutoff, there won't be enough room to place the new shark bite fitting.

It really is pretty simple.
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