First electric bill with nobody home

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  #46  
Old 10-22-2010, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill-n-Brillo View Post
The fresh coffee grounds will absorb any odors in a room. Give it a go - it does work!

Bill
What if you don't like the smell of coffee?
  #47  
Old 10-22-2010, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by greg802 View Post
Does anyone use damprid at all to remove moisture , the coffee idea sounds great never heard of it.
Yup, I've used DampRid for years to absorb moisture inside stored cars and covered boats. It does great - needs periodic attention, though (emptying and refilling the containers). If you need DampRid in any kind of volume (if you use it a lot), find a store that sells large bags of calcium chloride.........that's all Damp Rid is! Farm supply stores are a good source. Or any place up north that sells snow/ice melting products will probably carry it. Calcium chloride is mildly corrosive so some amount of caution is necessary when using.

Other things I've used for confined spaces to control moisture are 1.) Goldenrod dehumidifiers, and 2.) Happy's Air Dryers. Both operate off of 120v - plug 'em into a wall outlet - and basically contain low wattage heating elements inside. Kinda like little toasters! They become warm to the touch but never more than that. No fans involved - they circulate the air via natural convection (warm air rises, cooler/heavier air falls). Essentially, they dry out the moisture that would be present in the space. Goldenrods come in several lengths - good for closets or inside cabinets. The Air Dryers are good for somewhat larger spaces. A Google search for either one will yield more info and available sources for purchasing. They're big with boaters as well as RVers.

Hope that helps!!

Bill
  #48  
Old 10-22-2010, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bosoxfan View Post
What if you don't like the smell of coffee?
HA!!

Here's an idea: Stick your face down into a barrel of fermenting alcohol and inhale deeply. Your sinuses will get so messed you won't be able to smell coffee grounds or anything else for quite a long time!! Sandy wasn't listening to the tour guide at a whiskey distillery a number of years back when he was warning people not to get their faces too close to the open vats. Her smeller was messed up for weeks!!

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  #49  
Old 10-22-2010, 08:10 PM
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It's usually valved so that you can shut of the house supply while leaving the irrigation supply on.

Or, the irrigation recycled sewage water is completely separate from the potable water.
As I understand it, the water in the holding ponds around TV is from street runoff. This water is used for residential irrigation.
The sanitary sewers have seperate holding ponds for the treat sewer water. This water is used to irrigate the golf courses, never for residential irrigation.
There was a thread awhile back where this was explained.
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:56 PM
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My Bad, I have read many times that the irrigation water was smelly and figured it was processed sewage water.

Did a search on irrigation water and found this regarding irrigation water south of 466:

"Originally Posted by villages07 View Post
On a related note, I read somewhere recently that the ponds around the Villages are only used to irrigate golf courses (not sure about other common areas along roadside). Those of us on the South side are watering with non-potable water but it comes from the upper aquifier not from The Villages ponds.

NJBlue:
I read the same thing but this is a contradiction from what we were told in a presentation by the engineer in charge of the water system. He said that the water for residential irrigation south of 466 comes from two sources: the retention ponds and the acquifer - but not the same acquifer that is used for potable water. The golf courses use the above two sources plus use the reclaimed water from the sewage treament plant - after it has gone through a number of purification processes. "



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Last edited by chuckinca; 10-23-2010 at 01:02 AM.
  #51  
Old 10-23-2010, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by K9-Lovers View Post
Cutting off the water supply to a vacant home prevents flooding which can occur due to a busted or poorly connected waterhose to the fridge, or to a leaky hot water heater. We used to own rental homes and learned about this the hard way. However, do not drain your hot water heater as the coils sometimes break when the heater is being refilled.
Our house watch person (actually Redwitch) advised us, as brand new owners of a brand spanking new Lily in Buttonwood , to leave on the water to the house to more or less test the system. Since our house is essentially empty at this stage (a bedroom set and entertainment cabinet but NOTHING else yet! ) we thought it would be better to find any leaks/problems while there is less to be damaged and while still under warranty. If there are any problems, we'll find out about them sooner rather than later. Of course, this would not apply to anyone who is out of warranty for whatever reason...
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  #52  
Old 10-23-2010, 03:10 PM
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All I know is that one of the large retention ponds which looks really pretty is awfully stinky at times. Pretty to look at but hold your nose.

Sometimes the pond is absolutely fine, and sometimes not. I've noticed that houses backing on the pond are really inexpensive. Perhaps that explains why!

Whoops, I just realized this thread is about electrical bills, sorry I wandered off topic.
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  #53  
Old 10-23-2010, 10:04 PM
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Hi Tom, just received my statement today. Electric charge with adjustment and taxes was $25.60. We leave the fridge running and have the de-humidistat. 1481 sq. ft.
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  #54  
Old 10-24-2010, 06:21 AM
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Larry- My house is an Iris. (1963 square feet) That could explain my bill being 25% higher than yours which would bring my bill to approx $32 ($26 unaccounted for) LIke many people on this post recommend - I will change the temp of A/C to 82, lower the fridge settings and turn off the ceiling fans. (I may keep one running to circulate the air). The de-himidstate is a consideration but with my intentions of being a frog in two years, I'm not sure if the tradeoff is worth the expense.
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  #55  
Old 10-24-2010, 03:27 PM
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Tom, like you, I'm not sure about the de-humidistat, since I have nothing to compare it to. I don't think you'll make a bad decision either way. We're probably talking a few bucks a month.
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  #56  
Old 10-24-2010, 08:55 PM
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Here's a question. What about when you become full timers ?? What happens to the de-humidistat then. Does it become an ugle instrument on the wall or what ??? Do you use it after the home is occupied all the time ??
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  #57  
Old 10-24-2010, 09:09 PM
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If you don't need it why not just take it down? A couple of screw holes to fill in and you're good to go.
Not an issue for me because I'll probably never be a full timer. I really like my northern home. For me, snowbirding is the best of all worlds. I keep my home in the north and stay close to family and friends. I was out today watching a farmer press cider. The mountains around my home are brilliant colors of yellow, gold and red. The air is crisp, cool and fragrant.
I do look forward to high tailing it out of here before the cold, ice and snow arrive.
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  #58  
Old 10-26-2010, 10:26 PM
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Here's a question. What about when you become full timers ?? What happens to the de-humidistat then. Does it become an ugle instrument on the wall or what ??? Do you use it after the home is occupied all the time ??
Tommy, it doesn't become an ugly instrument, it already is! I will probably leave mine there and use it if I should go away for any extended times. If not, as stated above, shouldn't be a big deal to remove it.
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  #59  
Old 10-27-2010, 05:51 AM
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Keep in mind the most important function of the humidistat is not to save A/C money, but to protect your home from excess moisture. I have personally witnessed some severe damage from humidity including cabinets so warped they needed to be replaced, a cracked and broken laminate countertop, and mushrooms growing out of the carpet.
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  #60  
Old 10-27-2010, 05:59 AM
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, and mushrooms growing out of the carpet.[/QUOTE]


Is that an exaggeration?
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