[Lisanp@aol.com]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

I just helped a friend buy a car at Hyundai of Central Florida. We paid the MSRP minus a dealer discount of $5,000, plus the sales tax of 6 percent plus a title and tag transfer fee of about $150. No dealer installed options. We didn't pay any other fees. Period. That is the way Mullinax dealers sell all of their vehicles. All of the fees you cited are totally bogus.

Hyundai of Central Florida is an honest dealer that doesn't charge excess fees.

[ElDiabloJoe]

Huh, okay. This is the 2nd car-dealership thread this week. No one has mentioned what I'm going to say. I wasn't going to say it because I'd rather not have so many people using it that I have to suffer in selection whenever I need to buy another car.

How come no one has mentioned CarMax? Simple process, out the door pricing, no haggle, no hassle, and you can shop vehicles all over the country on their website. If the one you want is in Sacramento, they will "hold" it for you (take it off their sales website) and ship it to the Carmax local to you. Of course, there's a fee and the further the shipping the more the fee. Sometimes I have gotten the sales guy to waive the fee if I bought the car that was brought to my local CarMax. They have a several day return period also - no questions.

I sold a car to them once. The car was 13 years old (Toyota Avalon). The KBB / Edmunds on it was 3200 for private party, 2600 for trade in. CarMax not only gave me 3000 for it (no private party hassles), but I could still drive it for two weeks before I had to turn it in to them. That was very helpful in the final days before a move across country and having the car the last few days was needed.

[Pinball wizard]

I just used Chase Jordan from getdealguard.com. He saved me money and did all of the heavy lifting with dealers. All I had to do was go to the dealer, sign the papers, and say NO to the finance guy.

[tophcfa]

We’re in the process of buying a new ride right now. I feel like we’re in a strong position because we don’t need a car right now, we’re buying a car for the future because both my wife’s car and my truck have high mileage and won’t last forever. We live in the middle of nowhere when up north and one of us will be stranded at home if one of our current vehicles needs to go into the shop, so we decided to get an emergency car (we have plenty of garage space) that will eventually replace one of our current vehicles. Plus, we don’t want to keep driving a high mileage vehicle between our homes in the Villages and Massachusetts since that’s a problem waiting to happen. Here’s what I’m planning on doing. I have identified the exact vehicle we want, year, make, model, trim level, drivetrain (front wheel versus all wheel drive), exterior and interior color, and any add on features. We are going to buy a 2026 Honda HRV Sport with front wheel drive, in Urban Gray Pearl with a black interior, and all weather floor mats. North East dealers typically only carry AWD vehicles, so it’s highly unlikely I will find any FWD vehicles in stock, but that shouldn’t be a problem given our timeframe. I am going to contact all 6 Honda dealerships within a 50 mile radius and tell them I want to order an exact vehicle from the factory and can pick it up anytime between late April and fall of next year, since we won’t need the new vehicle while at our Villages home this winter anyways. I will make it very clear with each dealer that this is a cash deal with no trade in so I never want to talk about leases, financing, monthly payments, etc…. I will tell each dealer I am competively shopping this transaction and want their one time best price to meet our very specific pre specified conditions. I will clearly explain that the best price they give me will include 100% of our cost, including the car, destination and all dealer fees, title, registration, inspection, taxes, and anything else. I don’t care how they want to itemize our total cost, just how much lighter our retirement savings will be when we drive it off the lot. The dealer that gives us the lowest “100% all inclusive price” wins, and we will give them a deposit and sign a contract so they can order the vehicle from the factory. If there is a tie I guess we will have to decide who to give our business to based on dealer location and ease of working with. There will be no negotiations on this competitive pricing process.

[BrianL99]

Originally Posted by tophcfa

I have identified the exact vehicle we want, year, make, model, trim level, drivetrain (front wheel versus all wheel drive), exterior and interior color, and any add on features.

Great idea, but it doesn't work that way. Dealers can't "order" vehicles like they did with American Manufacturers, back in the 70's. If a Honda dealer takes an "Order" from you, you're being conned.

The only foreign manufacturers I know of, who will still take an order for a specific car, with specific options/colors/equipment, are BMW and Mercedes (maybe Land Rover).

[BrianL99]

Originally Posted by ElDiabloJoe

How come no one has mentioned CarMax?
.

Perhaps because CarMax is constantly being sued for misleading customers, not providing Titles for the vehicles they sell and generally have the worst reputation of any major automobile seller in the USA?

They are great to sell a car to ... they'll buy any piece of crap and pay all the money.

[ElDiabloJoe]

Originally Posted by BrianL99

Perhaps because CarMax is constantly being sued for misleading customers, not providing Titles for the vehicles they sell and generally have the worst reputation of any major automobile seller in the USA?

They are great to sell a car to ... they'll buy any piece of crap and pay all the money.

Interesting. I know Carvana is constantly in financial and litigious straits, have not heard that about CarMax. Between myself, my sister-in-law, and one of my best friends, we have about 8 purchases and a couple of sales from CarMax over the years with nary an issue.

[ElDiabloJoe]

Originally Posted by tophcfa

We’re in the process of buying a new ride right now. I feel like we’re in a strong position because we don’t need a car right now, we’re buying a car for the future because both my wife’s car and my truck have high mileage and won’t last forever. We live in the middle of nowhere when up north and one of us will be stranded at home if one of our current vehicles needs to go into the shop, so we decided to get an emergency car (we have plenty of garage space) that will eventually replace one of our current vehicles. Plus, we don’t want to keep driving a high mileage vehicle between our homes in the Villages and Massachusetts since that’s a problem waiting to happen. Here’s what I’m planning on doing. I have identified the exact vehicle we want, year, make, model, trim level, drivetrain (front wheel versus all wheel drive), exterior and interior color, and any add on features. We are going to buy a 2026 Honda HRV Sport with front wheel drive, in Urban Gray Pearl with a black interior, and all weather floor mats. North East dealers typically only carry AWD vehicles, so it’s highly unlikely I will find any FWD vehicles in stock, but that shouldn’t be a problem given our timeframe. I am going to contact all 6 Honda dealerships within a 50 mile radius and tell them I want to order an exact vehicle from the factory and can pick it up anytime between late April and fall of next year, since we won’t need the new vehicle while at our Villages home this winter anyways. I will make it very clear with each dealer that this is a cash deal with no trade in so I never want to talk about leases, financing, monthly payments, etc…. I will tell each dealer I am competively shopping this transaction and want their one time best price to meet our very specific pre specified conditions. I will clearly explain that the best price they give me will include 100% of our cost, including the car, destination and all dealer fees, title, registration, inspection, taxes, and anything else. I don’t care how they want to itemize our total cost, just how much lighter our retirement savings will be when we drive it off the lot. The dealer that gives us the lowest “100% all inclusive price” wins, and we will give them a deposit and sign a contract so they can order the vehicle from the factory. If there is a tie I guess we will have to decide who to give our business to based on dealer location and ease of working with. There will be no negotiations on this competitive pricing process.

Hey Tophcfa, if it doesn't work out for you, we used authority auto (dot com) to buy a car while we were in California and have it delivered to us in Tennessee. They found the exact car we wanted at a Toyota dealership in Maryland. Everything went smooth as silk.

Hope this helps,

EDJ

[ElDiabloJoe]

/// Duplicate of previous post.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by tophcfa

We’re in the process of buying a new ride right now. I feel like we’re in a strong position because we don’t need a car right now, we’re buying a car for the future because both my wife’s car and my truck have high mileage and won’t last forever. We live in the middle of nowhere when up north and one of us will be stranded at home if one of our current vehicles needs to go into the shop, so we decided to get an emergency car (we have plenty of garage space) that will eventually replace one of our current vehicles. Plus, we don’t want to keep driving a high mileage vehicle between our homes in the Villages and Massachusetts since that’s a problem waiting to happen. Here’s what I’m planning on doing. I have identified the exact vehicle we want, year, make, model, trim level, drivetrain (front wheel versus all wheel drive), exterior and interior color, and any add on features. We are going to buy a 2026 Honda HRV Sport with front wheel drive, in Urban Gray Pearl with a black interior, and all weather floor mats. North East dealers typically only carry AWD vehicles, so it’s highly unlikely I will find any FWD vehicles in stock, but that shouldn’t be a problem given our timeframe. I am going to contact all 6 Honda dealerships within a 50 mile radius and tell them I want to order an exact vehicle from the factory and can pick it up anytime between late April and fall of next year, since we won’t need the new vehicle while at our Villages home this winter anyways. I will make it very clear with each dealer that this is a cash deal with no trade in so I never want to talk about leases, financing, monthly payments, etc…. I will tell each dealer I am competively shopping this transaction and want their one time best price to meet our very specific pre specified conditions. I will clearly explain that the best price they give me will include 100% of our cost, including the car, destination and all dealer fees, title, registration, inspection, taxes, and anything else. I don’t care how they want to itemize our total cost, just how much lighter our retirement savings will be when we drive it off the lot. The dealer that gives us the lowest “100% all inclusive price” wins, and we will give them a deposit and sign a contract so they can order the vehicle from the factory. If there is a tie I guess we will have to decide who to give our business to based on dealer location and ease of working with. There will be no negotiations on this competitive pricing process.

I would make two comments:

1. Most dealers will not give you their best price and compete with other dealers in that manner. This is because they have no control over how you are shopping the price. They may give you a price, but it will not be their best price.

2. If you do provide a deposit for a vehicle that you order, they may ask you to sign an agreement to provide that car "OR EQUVALENT". If you sign it, even if you use a credit card, you may not get the car you want and you most likely will not get your deposit back. That is why I always buy a car that is on the lot and ready to drive away. I never give a deposit.

[tophcfa]

Originally Posted by ElDiabloJoe

Hey Tophcfa, if it doesn't work out for you, we used authority auto (dot com) to buy a car while we were in California and have it delivered to us in Tennessee. They found the exact car we wanted at a Toyota dealership in Maryland. Everything went smooth as silk.

Hope this helps,

EDJ

Thanks for the suggestion. My current backup plan is to consider buying the car from Honda of Ocala, as Florida dealers carry almost exclusively FWD vehicles, and would most likely have exactly what we want. Plus, since my timeframe is extremely flexible and it’s a cash transaction, there is negotiating leverage. I could fly down just about anytime next year, spend some time at our Villages home, and drive the new ride back north. The only hassle is that the car would come with temporary plates and I would have to take care of all the MA title, registration, taxes, inspection, etc… myself. Unfortunately, it’s a hassle wanting a FWD option up north. But why pay more for an AWD option that reduces MPG, requires more maintenance, has more stuff that could break, and wears tires faster, when we spend the snow season in the Villages shoving sunshine? One things for certain, I’m not dealing with Jenkins. We brought my wife’s HRV there last winter for a manufacturers recall (fuel pump) and never before have dealt with such a highly questionable dealership.

[tophcfa]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

I would make two comments:

1. Most dealers will not give you their best price and compete with other dealers in that manner. This is because they have no control over how you are shopping the price. They may give you a price, but it will not be their best price.

2. If you do provide a deposit for a vehicle that you order, they may ask you to sign an agreement to provide that car "OR EQUVALENT". If you sign it, even if you use a credit card, you may not get the car you want and you most likely will not get your deposit back. That is why I always buy a car that is on the lot and ready to drive away. I never give a deposit.

Good information, thanks. I fully anticipate at least some of the dealerships not wanting to do it my way. That’s fine, I’ll work with those that do, and expand my dealer radius if necessary. If a dealer puts a contract in front of us that has “or equivalent”, we won’t sign it. But thanks for the heads up, that will part of the up front specifications. I will also specify a very low mileage limit, so the car isn’t used for potential buyers test driving it while on the lot. It will also be specified that the car will not have any permanent dealer logo or badging on the vehicle. If they want to put on a removable license plate bracket on the car with a dealer logo, that’s fine.

[tophcfa]

Originally Posted by BrianL99

Great idea, but it doesn't work that way. Dealers can't "order" vehicles like they did with American Manufacturers, back in the 70's. If a Honda dealer takes an "Order" from you, you're being conned.

The only foreign manufacturers I know of, who will still take an order for a specific car, with specific options/colors/equipment, are BMW and Mercedes (maybe Land Rover).

My research indicates Honda still takes factor orders, but not Toyota (which is one of the reasons we selected the HRV over the Cross). That being said, I never trust what I read on the internet, so I very well might find out differently very soon when I begin contacting Honda dealers.

[Berwin]

Several years back I wanted a new motorcycle and drove up to the Yamaha dealership in Ocala. There were two of the model I wanted. One new and one a year old with very low miles. The sticker price on the used one was actually higher than the price on the new one. When I asked what the deal was, the salesman said the used one would not have all the add-on fees that the new one would and that justified the higher price on the sticker. ????? I told them no thanks and went down the street a hundred yards and got a Suzuki.

[RoboVil]

Generally, the doc fee maximum is set by the state. Dealers must charge each customer the same doc fee. However, dealers do not have to charge the maximum or any doc fee. I have even been successful in having the dealer reduce the price of the car the additional amount of the doc fee essentially negating the doc fee. Everything is negotiable.