[rockyhyder]

Good points made already, no need to repeat. The availability of the product and contractor could have a major influence on the decision. I would go ahead and get three quotes for both and find out the time frame for each job, chose my contractor and schedule it. If the roof is last make sure they cover your new outdoor unit.

[Lindaws]

Totally agree. Summer now. The last thing you need is no air c. when 100 outside.

[dlebuis]

We just had our roof replaced and had to wait 3 months to get it due to shortage of shingles. We had Batterbee do it as they have been around for many years and had a good reputation. When we informed our insurance company we had it done we were told our premium would most likely decrease. They also told us we were smart in going with a reputable company as many roofing companies come in and do a lot of roofs and as soon as problems occur they close down and return under a new name. Just do your homework before choosing a contractor. Not saying anything bad about all the contractors but be cautious and check them out. You’re spending a lot of money.

[Blue Oval]

As mentioned get some estimates and scheduling info from reputable companies. We are in the beginning of the rainy season, so if you need to order shingles now to have them in 3 or 4 months from now, your timing would be about perfect. I would not replace a roof this time of year but in the Fall when it rains less. Best of luck.

[Gray lady of the sea]

Thank you ! Makes a lot of sense

[merrymini]

I would hope that a reputable roofer would take trouble to protect plants, trees and air unit during the roofing procedure. If they do not, I would look for someone who does. This is one of the questions they should be able to address when you get a quote.

[yanksansky]

Originally Posted by GOLFER54

Is bester a word ? ������

This practice is grammatically incorrect, because best is already the superlative of good. Bestest appears in dictionaries, but it's marked as an informal, nonstandard, or humorous word. Nevertheless, English speakers have been using it since the mid-eighteenth century.

Snarky Grammar police. I believe the OP meant to use “better”. The OP was asking for advice not looking for a lesson. I suppose you think you are PERFECT.

[Celebrator]

Thanks to all of you who replied. I think I will start getting estimates for the roof and plan to go with one of the local companies I have read about in other posts. I was glad to give the person who corrected my typo something to criticize.

[Lottoguy]

If your A/C is working good right now then get the roof first. You get a better deal in the winter on A/C install because their all looking for the work then. In the summer they charge higher prices because they know your in a bind. You can't go wrong with Chuck Farrel for the A/C. And The Roof Guys for that roof.

[noslices1]

I would avoid any of these “Door-to-door” roof salesmen. Call Batterbee for a quote and ask the Villages Ins office who they recommend.

[OhioBuckeye]

Originally Posted by Celebrator

Both our roof and air conditioner are almost 20 years old so we have decided to replace both. My question is it bester to replace the roof or the air conditioner first or doesn't it matter. Of course roofers say do the roof first and air conditioning companies say replace the air conditioner first. We have a courtyard villa.

Thanks

Also Safe and Secure roofers have or are replacing many houses in the Mallory Square area. Any feedback on them? No info on BBB site.

Anything that protects your home or helps insulates it do first, so I say do the roof first. Otherwise you’ll just be over working the Air Conditioner. Plus if your roof starts leaking, there’s another problem!

[Belva100$]

Munns will take really good care of you. Fair n honest.

[stevesliders]

Bowels roofing best price great quality.

[ProfessorDave]

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.

[Garywt]

I don’t know what one has to do with the other. Do whichever one is giving you trouble and then the other. If you have the money, do them both.