[villagetinker]

The fan was installed to cool the attic, since I already had windows in both garage doors, it was a simple matter to replace the glass window with Lexan and screen grates. This allows light in, and plenty of air flow, and keeps the rain out. The setup seems to have significantly reduced the temperature in the attic. It also has helped keep the garage cooler.

[e-flyer]

Here is the link to the one I saw on-line for dyi, $399, or the Solar guys sell/install them also >$500-600.

https://www.coolmygarage.com/shop/gf...-attic-cooler/

If it's not against code, a simple ridge vent exhaust fan can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes for less than $150 and installed in your garage ceiling. I just can't find any definitive answers on whether this is ok to do.

[drstevens]

Hi Vt,
What fan did you get & where? I am interested & in Mallory.
Thanks for your input!

[The Buckeyes]

Had Solar Guys install 2 vents (bottom of garage door) and exhaust fan in garage controlled on a thermostat. When it hits 90 degrees it clicks on pulling hot air out of garage and forcing it into attic to circulate that air and pushing out hot air through attic vents. As soon as temp drops below 90 it shuts off. Well pleased with result.

[photo1902]

I still have yet to find out if having a vent fan from the garage to the attic is approved by code. I'd hate to be the guinea pig, and in the unfortunate event of fire, have my insurance company balk at the claim. From the little research I've done, why not a wall mounted vent fan in the garage?

[villagetinker]

drstevens, I bought the fan at either Lowes or Home depot, it was listed as a gable fan, 20 inches in diameter, with thermostat.

phto1902, I really was not interested in cutting through 10 inches of block wall`, and then doing all of the work to have the hole match the rest of the house. Also, the primary goal was to cool the attic, I would have installed in a gable on the roof if we had one, but our house is a hip roof design, no gables.

[photo1902]

Originally Posted by villagetinker

drstevens, I bought the fan at either Lowes or Home depot, it was listed as a gable fan, 20 inches in diameter, with thermostat.

phto1902, I really was not interested in cutting through 10 inches of block wall`, and then doing all of the work to have the hole match the rest of the house. Also, the primary goal was to cool the attic, I would have installed in a gable on the roof if we had one, but our house is a hip roof design, no gables.

Going through the block wall is not a big deal. It's done all the time for mini-split systems and conduits for pool electric supply lines. I've reached out to the Sumter County Building Inspector to get his take on the code portion garage vent fan before I decide which option I would like to do.

[e-flyer]

Please let us all know what the Inspector tells you. I haven't found anything in National Fire or Fl. Building Code that I've read so far. A few Home Inspection forums mentioned that they feel that they should write it up in their inspection report, but nothing listing code violations. I see folks leaving the attic access hatch open all the time, I don't see a real difference. I'll probably end up just doing the inexpensive gable fan method (less than $150). If we ever sell the house I can take it out and patch the hole if it's a problem.

[photo1902]

Originally Posted by e-flyer

Please let us all know what the Inspector tells you. I haven't found anything in National Fire or Fl. Building Code that I've read so far. A few Home Inspection forums mentioned that they feel that they should write it up in their inspection report, but nothing listing code violations. I see folks leaving the attic access hatch open all the time, I don't see a real difference. I'll probably end up just doing the inexpensive gable fan method (less than $150). If we ever sell the house I can take it out and patch the hole if it's a problem.

No problem, e-flyer. I've gotten prompt responses in the past from him. I'll let you know what he says.

[photo1902]

I received a response from Sumter County Building Official Steven Wilcox: "The vent must go thru the roof and not just into the attic. This keeps fire from going into the attic area and spreading to the rest of the home".

[Chatbrat]

In NC the door from the garage to the main house had to be fire rated also the sheet rock over the garage and the sheetrock between the garage and the main house had to be two 5/8" layers of rock

The garages here have very little fire stopping ability--but thats what we have insurance for.

[villagetinker]

I found a retrofit kit that I have printer out the info, will check with building codes people to see if this is acceptable, with the fusible (or equal) link to stop the fan. thanks for the info on the codes.

[e-flyer]

The link I posted earlier is a unit that The Solar Guys also sell and install, so I'm assuming this setup is up to code. To be clear, the motor is rated at a certain temp, and will cut out if that temp is reached. The top can portion has the fusible link which will break at a certain temperature closing the two vertical panels blocking off the path to the attic, which prevents pulling the fire into the attic.

[mic4me]

Folks, thanks for all the great input. I ended up having solar guys install the attic fan recommended by e-flyer. Installation included 2 vents in the garage door for flow through ventilation. Now it's just a matter of getting the correct setting on the thermostat. Next project is to do something with the windows in the garage door. They are like a magnifying glass. Any thoughts about tinting or replacing? The rest of the door is insulated.

[villagetinker]

Originally Posted by mic4me

Folks, thanks for all the great input. I ended up having solar guys install the attic fan recommended by e-flyer. Installation included 2 vents in the garage door for flow through ventilation. Now it's just a matter of getting the correct setting on the thermostat. Next project is to do something with the windows in the garage door. They are like a magnifying glass. Any thoughts about tinting or replacing? The rest of the door is insulated.

The window glass is real easy to remove, there are 6 or 8 screws that hold the plastic trim in place. Removing these screws allows the plastic pieces to be separated, and the glass will fall out. As for covering or tinting, I have no direct experience, but I would do a search and see if you can buy a yard or so of the solar film and just install it yourself, in the inside of the glass.