[ridge]

Originally Posted by billethkid

I tried a forum search but did not come up with any thing.
Our home (built 2004) is now 21 years old. I need to change the toilet tank fill valve and have been cautioned by neighbors to be careful of the shut off valves as they are fragile and should be replaced.
Your experiences/suggestions
will be appreciated.

Replaced all my valves with metal glue on type quarter turn valves...14 total. You can use sharkbite but I chose to glue. See you tube for removing push pull existing valves. Not a difficult job if you're handy.

[Cassieb]

I have read very bad review on these valves so I replaced everyone in my house with Sharkbite valves. All the info is online on how to proceed. Remember to place the one behind the fridge.

[john352]

Originally Posted by billethkid

I tried a forum search but did not come up with any thing.
Our home (built 2004) is now 21 years old. I need to change the toilet tank fill valve and have been cautioned by neighbors to be careful of the shut off valves as they are fragile and should be replaced.
Your experiences/suggestions will be appreciated.

My home was also built 21 years ago. Three years ago, I had a minor flood in my home due to a leak in a plastic pipe located underneath the concrete floor in my master bathroom. I had to use the main shutoff valve located in my garage; that valve was plastic and very difficult to turn. When the leak detection/plumber was replacing the faulty pipe, I had him replace the main shutoff valve with a brass valve that is easy to operate. Replacing the one main valve is more cost-effective than replacing 14 local plastic valves.

Before I leave my home to go on vacation, I shut off the water supply to my entire home and turn off the water heater. If I need to repair a toilet or a faucet, I use the easy-to-turn main valve in the garage rather than the questionable plastic valve located near the toilet or faucet. I tried to include a photo of the new main valve in the off position with this write-up.



IMG_3646.jpg - Google Drive

[TorriJ]

We just had all of ours replaced by Dunstan & Son Plumbing out of Leesburg. Great service. They also changed our main shutoff. We had 21 of them to replace. It has given us peace of mind.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by billethkid

I tried a forum search but did not come up with any thing.
Our home (built 2004) is now 21 years old. I need to change the toilet tank fill valve and have been cautioned by neighbors to be careful of the shut off valves as they are fragile and should be replaced.
Your experiences/suggestions will be appreciated.

If try to shut it off I would first spray with little penetrating oil, the push pull part of valve is the weakest point.


They are actually called Accor, probably why couldn’t find them in search.

Plenty posts on topics in do it yourself section.

Some will not come off, but most do, on the few that won’t thread off counterclockwise you have to cut them off. Which means you for have tools to do that or just cut pipe if have enough sticking out of wall? If don’t have skills or tools best just call plumber and be done with it. I replaced all mine with sharkbite or Quickfittings LF45AR-2 which have easy removal tool lets them slide right off.

Here video on how to remove them it you think you can do it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtBU6l69gdI

[maggie1]

Originally Posted by billethkid

I tried a forum search but did not come up with any thing.
Our home (built 2004) is now 21 years old. I need to change the toilet tank fill valve and have been cautioned by neighbors to be careful of the shut off valves as they are fragile and should be replaced.
Your experiences/suggestions will be appreciated.

This is the easiest DIY job that I've ever attempted, and that's saying a lot, because I'm just not that talented in the home improvement field. However, I replaced every push/pull valve in our home with the Shark-Bite valve. Follow these steps, and when it's over, you'll feel a real sense of accomplishment:

1. Turn off the main water supply valve.
2. Flush the toilet and disconnect the supply line from the toilet tank.
3. Don't forget to put something under the tank to catch the water that will drain out.
4. There will also be a small amount of water in the supply hose, so drain that too.
5. Use a pipe cutter to cut the valve off. There will be a circular, saw-toothed ring that is left on the water line, so cut that off as well.
6. You should now have the water line sticking from the wall with nothing on it.
7. Push the Shark-Bite valve onto the line. Follow the instructions on installation, but you'll know when it's on correctly, because it won't go back any further, so don't force it.
8. Attach a metal braided water line to the valve and the toilet tank.
9. Pour some water into the tank and check for leaks.
10. If no leaks, then turn on the water supply and check for leaks at the hose and valve connection. There shouldn't be if you've tightened but not overtightened the connection.
11. Keep a towel handy to soak up any water that has spilled from the disconnections.

I replaced every valve in my house five years ago, and they've worked very well. I see that Amazon is still selling a package of ten compression valves for $45, which is around the same price I paid. If you simply want to replace the one toilet valve, True-Value Hardware sells SharkBite valves for around $15.

[Jo-Ski]

After you find the main cutoff while you are replacing the toilet valve consider adding another cutoff for the toilet.

[John Sarubbi]

The shutoff valves that come with the Village Homes are not the best. We had some of them replace by Dove Plumbing in Wildwood, great service and they are also cheaper. They also replace our water heater for a lot less than all the plumber trucks you see.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by maggie1

This is the easiest DIY job that I've ever attempted, and that's saying a lot, because I'm just not that talented in the home improvement field. However, I replaced every push/pull valve in our home with the Shark-Bite valve. Follow these steps, and when it's over, you'll feel a real sense of accomplishment:

1. Turn off the main water supply valve.
2. Flush the toilet and disconnect the supply line from the toilet tank.
3. Don't forget to put something under the tank to catch the water that will drain out.
4. There will also be a small amount of water in the supply hose, so drain that too.
5. Use a pipe cutter to cut the valve off. There will be a circular, saw-toothed ring that is left on the water line, so cut that off as well.
6. You should now have the water line sticking from the wall with nothing on it.
7. Push the Shark-Bite valve onto the line. Follow the instructions on installation, but you'll know when it's on correctly, because it won't go back any further, so don't force it.
8. Attach a metal braided water line to the valve and the toilet tank.
9. Pour some water into the tank and check for leaks.
10. If no leaks, then turn on the water supply and check for leaks at the hose and valve connection. There shouldn't be if you've tightened but not overtightened the connection.
11. Keep a towel handy to soak up any water that has spilled from the disconnections.

I replaced every valve in my house five years ago, and they've worked very well. I see that Amazon is still selling a package of ten compression valves for $45, which is around the same price I paid. If you simply want to replace the one toilet valve, True-Value Hardware sells SharkBite valves for around $15.

Some like mind didn’t have enough pipe sticking out of wall to cut off. So had use the counterclockwise twisting to get Accor push/pull valves off. If cut pipe off or even twist off have or de-bur and scotch bright pipe so get good seal with shark bites. Agree, not that hard unless don’t have enough pipe sticking out of wall or stubborn Accor push/pull valve that won’t twist off. Then, have to cut valve off without damaging what little pipe sticking out of wall.

[ElDiabloJoe]

Originally Posted by john352

My home was also built 21 years ago. Three years ago, I had a minor flood in my home due to a leak in a plastic pipe located underneath the concrete floor in my master bathroom. I had to use the main shutoff valve located in my garage; that valve was plastic and very difficult to turn. When the leak detection/plumber was replacing the faulty pipe, I had him replace the main shutoff valve with a brass valve that is easy to operate. Replacing the one main valve is more cost-effective than replacing 14 local plastic valves.

Before I leave my home to go on vacation, I shut off the water supply to my entire home and turn off the water heater. If I need to repair a toilet or a faucet, I use the easy-to-turn main valve in the garage rather than the questionable plastic valve located near the toilet or faucet. I tried to include a photo of the new main valve in the off position with this write-up.



IMG_3646.jpg - Google Drive

Your photo appears to show the valve in the "Off" position. Easy to tell because the "On" position (same as gas meters) is in-line with the piping as opposed to perpendicular to it.
As for your turning off the water heater, do you drain it also, or just flip the switch, assuming there's no pilot light? So the water sits in there the entire time you're away until you turn back on the water valve and then the water heater, do I understand correctly? Thanks.

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by ElDiabloJoe

Your photo appears to show the valve in the "Off" position. Easy to tell because the "On" position (same as gas meters) is in-line with the piping as opposed to perpendicular to it.
As for your turning off the water heater, do you drain it also, or just flip the switch, assuming there's no pilot light? So the water sits in there the entire time you're away until you turn back on the water valve and then the water heater, do I understand correctly? Thanks.

When I’m away I just turn mine down to pilot.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by ElDiabloJoe

Your photo appears to show the valve in the "Off" position. Easy to tell because the "On" position (same as gas meters) is in-line with the piping as opposed to perpendicular to it.
As for your turning off the water heater, do you drain it also, or just flip the switch, assuming there's no pilot light? So the water sits in there the entire time you're away until you turn back on the water valve and then the water heater, do I understand correctly? Thanks.

Personally, I would not drain the water heater. Just run the water for awhile when you return.

[ElDiabloJoe]

Topspinmo and Retiredguy123, thanks for your informative posts. Not sure tankless water heaters have pilot lights. I'll have to look into that.

[Altavia]

Originally Posted by ElDiabloJoe

Topspinmo and Retiredguy123, thanks for your informative posts. Not sure tankless water heaters have pilot lights. I'll have to look into that.

No pilot light in tankless, electric ignitor. Wouldn't hurt to shutoff the breaker.

[ElDiabloJoe]

Originally Posted by Altavia

No pilot light in tankless, electric ignitor. Wouldn't hurt to shutoff the breaker.

Ahhh, excellent. Thank you. Simple to do - easier than dealing with a pilot light. I'd actually probably shut off a lot of breakers: Stove, Washer/Dryer, etc. Major stuff.