[jrref]

Originally Posted by collie1228

I do my own plumbing and have replaced several water heaters, both gas and electric, over the years. I have never had a warranty claim; my heaters have all exceeded their warranty periods. I don’t see a need for a longer warranty, as a good quality water heater is pretty bulletproof.

I'm assuming you also did your own maintenance on your water heaters?

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by collie1228

I do my own plumbing and have replaced several water heaters, both gas and electric, over the years. I have never had a warranty claim; my heaters have all exceeded their warranty periods. I don’t see a need for a longer warranty, as a good quality water heater is pretty bulletproof.

Agree, under normal circumstances water heater on city treated water should last longer than 12 years most 15 and some over 20 years. Now if your on well water (depending on minerals in well water?) expect 10 years max. When I lived in Oklahoma on well water I always brought 12 warranty water heater and I alway got free one before warranty expired. In 20 years I lived there I replace 4 water heaters 2 were free due to didn’t last longer than warranty, which all developed pin hole leak in bottom. Was in utility room with drain so no problem with water damage.

[CybrSage]

Originally Posted by New Englander

My home is all electric. Electric and tankless is not a good match.

What is bad about saving money and using less electricity while also being able to tell the grandkids you are saving the environment by polluting less?

In the Villages, the tankless heater is outside, where it starts quite hot already from the sun heating it for free. Plus any leaks do not flood the house.

Tankless water heaters can be 24%-34% more efficient for households using 41 gallons of hot water or less daily, and 8%-14% more efficient for those using around 86 gallons daily.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by CybrSage

What is bad about saving money and using less electricity while also being able to tell the grandkids you are saving the environment by polluting less?

In the Villages, the tankless heater is outside, where it starts quite hot already from the sun heating it for free. Plus any leaks do not flood the house.

Tankless water heaters can be 24%-34% more efficient for households using 41 gallons of hot water or less daily, and 8%-14% more efficient for those using around 86 gallons daily.

Tankless water heaters are fine if they are installed with a new house. But, the question was about replacing an electric tank type water heater with a tankless heater (Post No. 19). Usually, this does not make sense, especially for an all-electric house. The house electrical system was not designed to accomodate an electric tankless water heater. So, you need to hire an electrician as to install a new high amp circuit and to run it to the water heater location. And, sometimes, the electrical panel will not even accommodate the high amp circuit breaker, so you need to upgrade the panel. In most cases, it makes more sense to just replace the existing tank type water heater with another tank type unit.

[toddao]

I use CPM Plumbing for all my needs. They are reliable, reasonably priced. and their reps are well qualified. They replaced my 50 gallon water heater and expansion tank and all fittings for $1,465.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by toddao

I use CPM Plumbing for all my needs. They are reliable, reasonably priced. and their reps are well qualified. They replaced my 50 gallon water heater and expansion tank and all fittings for $1,465.

I would just point out that it sounds expensive considering that the OP's cost was only $910 for a 40 gallon water heater. The cost difference between a 50 gallon and 40 gallon heater is only $100 retail.

[New Englander]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

Tankless water heaters are fine if installed with a new house. But the question was about replacing an electric tank-type water heater with a tankless heater (Post No. 19). Usually, this does not make sense, especially for an all-electric house. The house electrical system was not designed to accommodate an electric tankless water heater. So, you need to hire an electrician to install a new high amp circuit and to run it to the water heater location. And, sometimes, the electrical panel will not even accommodate the high amp circuit breaker, so you need to upgrade the panel. In most cases, it makes more sense to just replace the existing tank type water heater with another tank type unit.

If I did all that. Would I be saving the planet? I doubt it.

[Skip]

Originally Posted by collie1228

I do my own plumbing and have replaced several water heaters, both gas and electric, over the years. I have never had a warranty claim; my heaters have all exceeded their warranty periods. I don’t see a need for a longer warranty, as a good quality water heater is pretty bulletproof.

I do my own also. I flush the entire tank at the drain, once per year, and replace the sacrifice anode every 5-6 years. You can get 20+ years out of the appliance if you maintain it correctly. Plumbers won't tell you this.

Skip

[New Englander]

Originally Posted by Skip

I do my own also. I flush the entire tank at the drain, once per year, and replace the sacrifice anode every 5-6 years. You can get 20+ years out of the appliance if you maintain it correctly. Plumbers won't tell you this.

Skip

Please describe your method of flushing your tank.

[New Englander]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

OP, I can almost guarantee you that Mike Scott will be installing a Rheem water heater with a 6-year warranty, and they will be installing a new expansion tank. You can upgrade to the 12-year warranty and pay more, but I wouldn't. My Rheem has a 6-year warranty, and it is still working fine after 10 years. By the way, the warranty will only cover the parts, which will most likely be less than half of the labor cost to replace the water heater.

You are 100% correct. It has a 6-year warranty and is a Rheem. Looks similar to old heater but a little more efficient. The new tank came with everything new. He said that's the only way Scott does it. It took about. two hours. I'm hoping the new tank lasts like the old one

[jrref]

Originally Posted by New Englander

You are 100% correct. It has a 6-year warranty and is a Rheem. Looks similar to old heater but a little more efficient. The new tank came with everything new. He said that's the only way Scott does it. It took about. two hours. I'm hoping the new tank lasts like the old one

This is what I mean. A reputable company like Mike Scott, Dove, CPM and others will do the job correctly but don't expect that from everyone especially someone with a very low price.

Also, don't forget to make sure the tech pressurizes the expansion tank properly. It needs to be done Before they install it.

[lawgolfer]

Originally Posted by jrref

You are doing the right thing. The problem is if you can do it yourself great but if you can't I believe a plumber will chage $200-$300 to drain and replace the rod so most don't do it.

I admit that changing the anode is a PITA (pain in the a**). Having done it 6 or 7 times, I've concluded that water heater manufacturers make the job hard so the homeowner won't bother. The tank will then rust through and the manufacturer will have another sale.

First, apply lots of penetrating oil around the head of the rod and let it sit overnight. The A.O. Smith tank in our house requires a 1&1/16 or 27mm socket. This large a socket has a 1/2" square drive. You will need a "breaker bar" of 18" minimum length. Be careful as you will be working on a stepladder. You may need to apply more penetrating oil and let it set another night. Don't despair as, eventually, it will come loose and you will experience a great deal of satisfaction in having done the job.

Interestingly, the job will be easier when you do the next replacement in 5 years because you will have wrapped the threads of the rod you put in place 5 years earlier with several wraps of teflon tape.

Replacing the anode in a Bradford White water heater is a real PITA. The anode is integral with the outlet tube in contrast to the Rheem, A.O. Smith and most other brands. The problem is that the top of the rod is aluminum while the threads are steel. You would need a special offset wrench or socket to the able to get a grip on the top of the steel. Instead, most people will put a pipe wrench of the aluminum tube which will then twist off or crush.

The trick with a Bradford White is to remove the flex pipe or coupler from the top of the aluminum and place an ordinary steel bolt inside the aluminum tube. I don't remember the size, but it will be in the area of 1/2", 9/16" or 5/8". With the bolt inside the aluminum tube you can then apply a pipe wrench to the aluminum tube without crushing the tube.

I had to use penetrating oil as well as apply heat from a propane torch to the steel threads below the aluminum tube. That stunk up our garage for the next two days. When I screwed in the new integral outlet tube/anode, I applied many wraps of teflon tape to the threads. I was happy we sold the house and moved to The Villages before it was time to again replace the anode in the Bradford White.

[Dave951]

Has anyone replaced there electric tank water heater with a on demand electric

[jrref]

Originally Posted by lawgolfer

I admit that changing the anode is a PITA (pain in the a**). Having done it 6 or 7 times, I've concluded that water heater manufacturers make the job hard so the homeowner won't bother. The tank will then rust through and the manufacturer will have another sale.

First, apply lots of penetrating oil around the head of the rod and let it sit overnight. The A.O. Smith tank in our house requires a 1&1/16 or 27mm socket. This large a socket has a 1/2" square drive. You will need a "breaker bar" of 18" minimum length. Be careful as you will be working on a stepladder. You may need to apply more penetrating oil and let it set another night. Don't despair as, eventually, it will come loose and you will experience a great deal of satisfaction in having done the job.

Interestingly, the job will be easier when you do the next replacement in 5 years because you will have wrapped the threads of the rod you put in place 5 years earlier with several wraps of teflon tape.

Replacing the anode in a Bradford White water heater is a real PITA. The anode is integral with the outlet tube in contrast to the Rheem, A.O. Smith and most other brands. The problem is that the top of the rod is aluminum while the threads are steel. You would need a special offset wrench or socket to the able to get a grip on the top of the steel. Instead, most people will put a pipe wrench of the aluminum tube which will then twist off or crush.

The trick with a Bradford White is to remove the flex pipe or coupler from the top of the aluminum and place an ordinary steel bolt inside the aluminum tube. I don't remember the size, but it will be in the area of 1/2", 9/16" or 5/8". With the bolt inside the aluminum tube you can then apply a pipe wrench to the aluminum tube without crushing the tube.

I had to use penetrating oil as well as apply heat from a propane torch to the steel threads below the aluminum tube. That stunk up our garage for the next two days. When I screwed in the new integral outlet tube/anode, I applied many wraps of teflon tape to the threads. I was happy we sold the house and moved to The Villages before it was time to again replace the anode in the Bradford White.

Thanks for the very accurate information. Yes, when I replaced my anode rod with the electronic type, my neighbors came over and using a breaker bar and all other types of tools we finally got the rod loose and out. This is why a plumber asks so much to do this service. It's not easy.

[jrref]

Originally Posted by Dave951

Has anyone replaced there electric tank water heater with a on demand electric

On demand electric is not very good compared to gas. Also, the amount of savings is so minimal that it's not worth the effort and cost. On demand is very good when you have many living in your home but here in the Villages, you only spend a couple hundred dollars a year to heat water so the savings, if any, are small.