[Kells]

Humidity is likely low because humidity in Central Florida is low this past week (because enesto sucked humidity out) but that will change today with temps to 96ish all week.

If the water catch pan or the drain is clogged, it would shut off outside cooling unit but inside fan would still be running, usually continuous.

This is 95% likely the problem. I had to flush my drain yesterday after it clogged up.

Call for service.

[Albany]

Originally Posted by E Cascade

My AC thermostat is set at 83. Temp in house is saying 89. Humidity in CYV by my clock on wall says 55-56. I am not at the house and I just had a friend check it out for me.
Question is: Is this too big of a variable between set temp and actual temp that is being read on the thermostat? Since I am not at the house at this time, I am wondering if all is OK. Villa is only <5 yo. Never had any problems before and I actually have never noticed what the variable is before the unit comes on, when I am there It's always been fine.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

It is probably fine. The humidistat overrides the AC, which will not come on until the humidistat hits 55 and activates it. It is simple to find out. Turn the humidistat to ON from the 55 setting. Wait a little, if the AC comes on you do not have a problem. The system is operating as it should. Then turn the humidistat back to 55.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Albany

It is probably fine. The humidistat overrides the AC, which will not come on until the humidistat hits 55 and activates it. It is simple to find out. Turn the humidistat to ON from the 55 setting. Wait a little, if the AC comes on you do not have a problem. The system is operating as it should. Then turn the humidistat back to 55.

Note that, if the system were trying to control humidity, the house temperature would be lower than the thermostat setting, not 6 degrees higher. The only way to reduce humidity is to overcool the house. Unless you have a real humidifier with reheat, which most Village houses do not have, the optional humidity setting will overcool the house by about 3 degrees below the thermostat setting to reduce humidity. To me, a house temperature of 89 degrees indicates that the AC may not be cooling at all.

[westernrider75]

Originally Posted by E Cascade

My AC thermostat is set at 83. Temp in house is saying 89. Humidity in CYV by my clock on wall says 55-56. I am not at the house and I just had a friend check it out for me.
Question is: Is this too big of a variable between set temp and actual temp that is being read on the thermostat? Since I am not at the house at this time, I am wondering if all is OK. Villa is only <5 yo. Never had any problems before and I actually have never noticed what the variable is before the unit comes on, when I am there It's always been fine.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Just a point of reference, my a/c comes when temp is one degree higher than what it is set at.

My snowbird neighbor had this same problem several months ago and there was something wrong with her a/c. Minor fix now all is well.

[DAVES]

Originally Posted by E Cascade

My AC thermostat is set at 83. Temp in house is saying 89. Humidity in CYV by my clock on wall says 55-56. I am not at the house and I just had a friend check it out for me.
Question is: Is this too big of a variable between set temp and actual temp that is being read on the thermostat? Since I am not at the house at this time, I am wondering if all is OK. Villa is only <5 yo. Never had any problems before and I actually have never noticed what the variable is before the unit comes on, when I am there It's always been fine.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

I think the real question is, you do not want to stick your friend in the middle. "Not in the house at this time," you do not say how long you will be gone. Apparently your friend has a key. A service call will cost about $100. It is not like the service person will not realize you are not home. IF, I was the friend, I would not be willing to mess with it. I would lay out the money for you and get a receipt for you-assuming you have a good history. Simple cheap stuff. Drain line clogged. Filter needs replacing.

[Bill14564]

Originally Posted by Albany

It is probably fine. The humidistat overrides the AC, which will not come on until the humidistat hits 55 and activates it. It is simple to find out. Turn the humidistat to ON from the 55 setting. Wait a little, if the AC comes on you do not have a problem. The system is operating as it should. Then turn the humidistat back to 55.

Are you saying that the thermostat cannot control both the humidity and the temperature? If I ask it to control humidity then the temperature can rise well above the set point as long as the humidity is low? That isn't what I would have expected.

I would expect my thermostat to keep my home near the temperature setting. If I have the dehumidify function enabled then I would expect the AC to EXTRA, if necessary, to keep the humidity level down.

If I have the AC set to a high temp, maybe 85, then I would expect that the humidity might rise and the AC to run to dehumidify the home. This additional running might keep the temp below 85 at times. But I would never expect the thermostat to ignore the temperature setting and allow the home to get very warm just because the humidity level has not risen.

I didn't see this "dehumidify-only" setting in the manual for my old, dumb thermostat. Is it a feature of the newer, "smart" thermostats?

[biker1]

The system has some issue(s). There is a high probability that it is a clogged condensate tube that is tripping the float valve or a failed start capacitor. This has already been suggested as a possible cause. There are numerous other possibilities such as low refrigerant from a leak. Without the capability of checking the two highly probable reasons, the home owner should engage an HVAC professsional. It appears that the system may still be under a 10 year parts and 5 year labor warranty (unless the default warranty has changed since I bought my home new). Relative humidity is a strong function of temperature. You can drop the relative humidity by increasing the temperature with the same absolute amount of moisture in the air. The actual moisture content of the air is higher than it should be if the temperature set point was being met with 55% relative humidity. This means the system has not been running and removing moisture. I have never seen a properly functioning system sustain a 6 degree temperature difference between the actual temperature and the set point.

I have had both a clogged condensate drain and failed start capacitor cause my system to stop. I regularly pour vinegar and hot water down the condensate drain and preemptively replace the start capacitor every two years. It is a $15 part and takes 10 minutes to swap out. Yes, that is overkill but we are gone a fair amount.

Originally Posted by Albany

It is probably fine. The humidistat overrides the AC, which will not come on until the humidistat hits 55 and activates it. It is simple to find out. Turn the humidistat to ON from the 55 setting. Wait a little, if the AC comes on you do not have a problem. The system is operating as it should. Then turn the humidistat back to 55.

[retiredguy123]

The typical thermostat in The Villages has an option humidity setting that will reduce the humidity by allowing the AC to run longer than it needs to, so the house temperature will occasionally drop below the temperature setting. It is a "compromise" because the only way to control both the temperature and the humidity is with a real humidity control system that has a reheat feature. With a reheat feature, both the temperature and humidity can be controlled simultaneously by cooling and reheating the air to obtain the desired temperature and humidity. Personally, I never use the optional humidity setting because it makes the house too cold, and a real humidity control system is expensive and not worth it.

[rjm1cc]

Originally Posted by SaucyJim

95% the drain condensate line needs to be vacuumed out and then flushed with hot water — not vinegar. Just hot water from the tap. That will clear the shutoff switch and the AC - not just the blower - will fire back up. I own two homes here and proactively flush mine monthly so vacuuming the line is not necessary.

Trust me. It’s not your thermostat. It’s not your electric panel. And it’s not the underpants gnomes. 😎

Good suggestion, clogged drain line is common. I run about a gallon of water through each month and then a cup of vinegar.

[Altavia]

Originally Posted by BobGraves

I'm assuming you have the Ecobee smart thermometer. Log in on Ecobee WEBSITE and click HOME IQ, then SYSTEM MONITOR. This will show you system run times.
I had this problem. Compressor was running $$$ but fan was not. Had new fan installed under warranty (Tank God). System showed constantly running but would not cool because no air movement.

Good tip - thanks!

Here's a link:

https://www.ecobee.com/consumerporta...s/411935960765

[Altavia]

Originally Posted by Nana2Teddy

I don’t know where your villa is located, but last week down south of 44 many homes in some villages were affected by a lightning strike on a transmission line in Coleman, that caused a “blink”, which tripped random breakers in our panels. We had 8-10 breakers tripped, as did many villagers here in DeLuna, plus there were some in Richmond and likely other villages down here. We had to call SECO the next day to ask what happened because there was zero communication from them about it. Not likely your issue, but thought I’d mention in just in case.

Off topic: Would be interesting to know if homes with the SECO or other surge protectors had tripped breakers.

So I hope you don't mind I copied your post to one of the surge suppression threads so people can reply to that question there.

Many Villagers Concerned About Lightning and Surge Protection

[JRcorvette]

Originally Posted by E Cascade

My AC thermostat is set at 83. Temp in house is saying 89. Humidity in CYV by my clock on wall says 55-56. I am not at the house and I just had a friend check it out for me.
Question is: Is this too big of a variable between set temp and actual temp that is being read on the thermostat? Since I am not at the house at this time, I am wondering if all is OK. Villa is only <5 yo. Never had any problems before and I actually have never noticed what the variable is before the unit comes on, when I am there It's always been fine.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

The variation should only be 2 degrees but your Thermostat may not be reading accurately

[JRcorvette]

Clogged drain line… check that first. If not that it is probably your capacitor. Buy on Amazon for about $12 easy to install or hire any handyman. An AC company will charge your $180-$225. Rip Off.

[Altavia]

Originally Posted by biker1

The system has some issue(s). There is a high probability that it is a clogged condensate tube that is tripping the float valve .

Adding, The float valve may be wired to also cut power to the thermostat.

If so, the thermostat goes blank when the floor valve activates.

[Karmanng]

things may need cleanings including the fan blower and the bottom part of the air unit plus the outside..........may need new capacitor mine needed all that after 5 years and over $1000.00 later and I had people here that took care of it for a bit and regular maitnence