[Skunky1]

Make sure the roofer gets her permit and get a copy of it before they begin

[islandtiempo]

Originally Posted by Jim 9922

Before making the final payment demand that you be furnished with a " Waiver Of Claims And Liens And Release Of Rights" signed by the major suppliers and subcontractors involved in your project. Some contractors will push against this extra bit of paperwork but it is your full right to demand it. Our roofing contractor, which is well known and established in the Tri-county area, presented the waiver upon completion of the job at the time full payment was due. I doubt that he had paid the materials supplier within the 1 day of delivery and installation, but now that is between those 2 parties. It also indicated to me that he probably has an excellent reputation with his supplier which in my mind makes him a better contractor.

A lesson to be learned: Our neighbor had a beautiful driveway covered in pavers this past February by one of the local "well known", "has a display on the Squares Market Nights" companies, no money down, paid on completion and 3 weeks later was notified of a lien placed on her property by the supplier of the pavers for unpaid materials. When called, the contractor told her that "things were a bit tight right now because of "C-19" but all would be good in 2 or 3 months". Now she has a good chance of paying 1 1/2 times for her driveway work.

That is important info! Is there anyway you could post a copy of what it all entails. Than you.

[Skunky1]

Look for your insurance rates to go up. Also look for your neighbors insurance rates to go up! If your roof didn’t leak why did you get it replaced? How come your insurance paid for the replacing Of your roof? Instead of one of the roofing company so it’s been soliciting door-to-door by calling independent contractor to come out an asses if there is any damage of course there was none and of course I watched everything he did.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by Kerry Azz

The deductible they can ask for prior to starting the job and that’s the normal way it’s done.I just had my room replaced in the summer and it came out great, great workmanship, great crew and the insurance company paid them. So if you have a problem you’ll probably be on your own. 5 Star roofing was here for one day and finished the job.They have done quite a few jobs around my village and everyone is happy with the work and none of them paid for the job upfront. My salesman was Justin Schumaker and he handled all the paperwork through the whole insurance process and we paid when the job was done his phone number is 813-416-5844.

It's not normal to pay the deductible or any money in advance to a contractor doing work on your house. The insurance claim is between the homeowner and the insurance company. The construction contract is between the homeowner and the contractor. These are two separate contracts. I would never pay money in advance to any contractor who does work on my house. The contractor doesn't even need to know what your insurance deductible is. As another poster said, you should never assign your insurance benefits to a contractor.

[Maryland04]

No never pay anything upfront and do not pull the permit, it is up to the contractor to do that.

[jacksonbrown]

"Look for your insurance rates to go up. Also look for your neighbors insurance rates to go up! If your roof didn’t leak why did you get it replaced? How come your insurance paid for the replacing Of your roof? "

Because it's cheaper for the company to fix the roof than to fix the roof AND pay many times over for interior damage and mold mitigation.

1. Everyone is right about not paying up front. The only time we sort of did that was with a landscaper, we agreed to three equal payments at various milestones in the project.

2. Before any final payment get that waiver Jim_9922 refered to. We have bought/sold 8 homes and we had that issue twice.

3. I am not sure what approval you may need from the ARB for the roof, but you should confirm that it has been done. The contractor should get it, but you still are the one responsible to be sure it is done. Call them to confirm what is needed and that your contractor has done it.

[Medopark1]

No down payment

[Joe C.]

I had my roof done by Sacks...….no down payment. They did the roof, and when finished, I gave them the payment. No problem. Also, they do great work and they picked up all the nails.

[brianherlihy]

Morning,
Just curious, how did you get a free roof? American Integrity is forcing us to change our policy and accept ACV, basically if there is an issue they will only pay 25% of damages (depreciating my roof at 15 years)
They tried to get me to believe that we have (missing shingles) as indicated by their inspector. Guess what... took pics and there are NO missing shingles. Some curled as I am sure most roofs have at this age. On top of that the shingles are warrantied for 25 years!!!
Does anyone have a company that is not trying to rip me off? I would ;love to cancel with them.

[brianherlihy]

My premium as of October 2019 for a courtyard villa is $925! Outrageous. I have owned a home for 50 years and NEVER mad a claim.
My very similar home in NH is $500.

[raney3099]

Just had my roof done in April through insurance. Gave my 500.00 deductible up front, then the insurance mailed me a check made out to myself, husband and roofing co. After the roof was done they came by few days later to pick up the check. Skymark Roofing. Great job very satisfied all around. Never ever give anything up front to any contractor.

[ProfessorDave]

[QUOTE=inda50;1772137]I will be getting a new roof, insurance is paying for most of it. For others that have done this work I'd like to know what should be the down payment. The roofing company ACP is asking for the whole insurance amount less the deductible when we sign paper is this normal ?[/QUOTE

NOT NORMAL...

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.
Hope this helps. If you want to deal director with a qualified crew – I might be able to help. My deal with them: if they do a roof for a “friend” they give me a $5.00 Starbucks gift certificate. (They wanted to give me more – I will not take it! We compromised on Starbucks.)

[HJBeck]

Never pay anything up front. If a company can cover the short term carrying cost to buy the shingles and underpayment, I would not rate them very high.

[taruffi57]

No.