[NancyLee]

Originally Posted by jacksonbrown

USAA has an excellent car buying service. And, the same service will allow you to accurately value your used car trade in.

I recently purchased a new car, using my 2016 Honda as a trade. USAA saved me thousands off MSRP and I traded the Honda to the same dealer at the amount specified by USAA.

The downside? Since the deal is advertised to a number of dealerships, you might have to travel as far as Orlando. But, there is no hard sell, actually no "sell" at all.

You specify the options, the dealer bids on the sale, initial contact is done by email, then phone.

Easy-peasy.

Oh, and no additional nitrogen ($$$) in your tires, unless you insist

I totally agree! We always use USAA. Also, do your trade-in car separately, after you have agreed on a new car. Don't let the dealer try to add it on to your new car negotiation. Also, even though you may have to go to Orlando for the new car, you can get it serviced at one of the closer dealerships.

[NancyLee]

Originally Posted by Marshaw

Just look around, you can buy something a few years old with almost no miles

That's a good idea. Just be sure to get a mechanic to closely look it over first before you buy.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by NancyLee

That's a good idea. Just be sure to get a mechanic to closely look it over first before you buy.

If you buy a car that is still under warranty, you may not need an inspection. The dealer will fix anything that is broken.

[radarnet]

They do not have a quick lane or body shop.
Just FYI. All services need an appt.

[radarnet]

A winner here!

[DON10E]

I know you said a nEw car, but I’ve bought three cars now from Enterprise car sales. They send 90% 0f cars to auction, but put 10% up for sale with full warranties. They inspect and update the cars and their website has a ton of information about the car with photos. The prices are below blue book and posted so there’s no haggling, and they have a money back guarantee for about a month. You can get cars that are 1 year old with 12,000 miles and save a ton on the depreciation. I’ve never had a problem with them. Google enterprise car sales. You can actually buy rental cars from many companies, too. Just a thought.

[DeanFL]

Originally Posted by DON10E

I know you said a nEw car, but I’ve bought three cars now from Enterprise car sales. They send 90% 0f cars to auction, but put 10% up for sale with full warranties. They inspect and update the cars and their website has a ton of information about the car with photos. The prices are below blue book and posted so there’s no haggling, and they have a money back guarantee for about a month. You can get cars that are 1 year old with 12,000 miles and save a ton on the depreciation. I’ve never had a problem with them. Google enterprise car sales. You can actually buy rental cars from many companies, too. Just a thought.

Glad it's worked for you, but I would never purchase a used RENTAL CAR.

I had rented hundreds of cars during my career, and know many people that had as well. Did we drive and take care of these short-term rentals carefully and as we would our own cars? Hell no. I had 'fun' with plenty of these vehicles as others I know did as well. Not abuse them, but...

Would I invest $$$ in a used vehicle that had (probably) hundreds of different drivers behind that steering wheel? IMO - nope. No matter the maintenance or warranty.
MUCH rather invest in a well-cared for one or two owner vehicle.

reminds me of a Seinfeld episode>

Rental Car Agent : Would you like to purchase the renter's insurance?

Jerry : Yeah, you better give me the insurance because I'm going to beat the HELL out of this thing.
.
.
.

[Joepearson55804@gmail.com]

Thank you!

[wisbad1]

Originally Posted by Joepearson55804@gmail.com

I like having a new car, and it's time to upgrade. I'd like to buy something local here in the Villages and surrounding area. I don't know anything about the local dealers. I'd appreciate any input, or experiences you've had.

Found dealers here add on $2000. dealers fee. They think we are flush with cash, (Jenkins). Had salesman pound on desk cause I would not buy car. Ended up at Headquarters in clermont, no pressure, no extra fees.

[retiredguy123]

Originally Posted by wisbad1

Found dealers here add on $2000. dealers fee. They think we are flush with cash, (Jenkins). Had salesman pound on desk cause I would not buy car. Ended up at Headquarters in clermont, no pressure, no extra fees.

KBB.com and Edmunds.com don't include a dealer fee in their calculation of the fair value price. If you know the fair value price, you don't need to discuss any individual pricing items with the dealer. As soon as you start to discuss line items of any type, you will lose money. Let him pound on the desk all he wants. When I shop for a car, I refuse to even sit in the dealer's silly little office. It's easier to discuss the purchase in the lounge where they have the free coffee.

[Pinball wizard]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

KBB.com and Edmunds.com don't include a dealer fee in their calculation of the fair value price. If you know the fair value price, you don't need to discuss any individual pricing items with the dealer. As soon as you start to discuss line items of any type, you will lose money. Let him pound on the desk all he wants. When I shop for a car, I refuse to even sit in the dealer's silly little office. It's easier to discuss the purchase in the lounge where they have the free coffee.

I for one would love to see the salerep pounding on the desk. I'd be LMAO!!!

BTW: the acceptable doc fee is about $75. NOT $700.

[bimmertl]

Originally Posted by wisbad1

Found dealers here add on $2000. dealers fee. They think we are flush with cash, (Jenkins). Had salesman pound on desk cause I would not buy car. Ended up at Headquarters in clermont, no pressure, no extra fees.

Same experience I had without the desk pounding. Also ended at HQ in Clermont.

[CoachKandSportsguy]

Retiredguy typed ->

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

The key is to ignore all of the add ons and offer to buy the car at the fair value price. They can take it or leave it. But, when you start to walk out, they will accept the price. There is no reason why they shouldn't. As soon as you start to negotiate with them, you have lost and you will pay too much. I tell the dealer upfront that I will only discuss the bottom line, out-the-door price. I tell them how I calculated my offer, and they can sell me the car, or I will just buy it somewhere else.

best approach! i always forget the out the door price part, but correct. Also, 3 year old off lease cards, < 30K in miles the best "value", which means your desired make and model and the youngest car for a fixed and least amount of money you want to spend.

sportsguy

[CoachKandSportsguy]

Not local to TV, but wife took her 60K 4 year old Subaru outback to dealer for servicing. REcommended changing the differential fluid, (good idea) and then the bill was $1,100. I looked at what they charged for. They rotated the tires, which I forgot to tell the wife to not have them do. So for a personal project, a front back all wheel drive tire wear analysis, i measured the tread difference front to back. Ooops, they never rotated the tires. Then a while later the oil light came on, Ooooops, they never changed the oil they charged for. Oooops the family who owns the dealerships has had family members hauled to court charged with defrauding mfgs. . . . with the virus and work from home change, and intrastate travel eliminated, car service sales and service ground to a halt, and they needed cash to survive, so no mechanics, no service and higher bills. I assume that they never changed the diferential fluid, but i have no way of telling at the moment.

ie, always know your answers to what you want and what will pay, prior to going to a dealership to buy a car. Then find a trust worthy mechanic.

sportsguy

[Joepearson55804@gmail.com]

Are the 2021's on the lot yet?