Considering some changes

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Old 09-23-2024, 10:30 AM
Pairadocs Pairadocs is offline
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Default Considering some changes

Considering making some changes that involve different areas/rooms of the house. Wondering if it is more economical to go to a "one size fits all" source like a dr. remodel, or big box store planning department, or, to personally purchase each item or materials, and hire the trade needed to install ? To clarify a bit; do you end up paying a one stop shop for acting as general contractor, while at the same time having no control or choice over the workers sent to do the work ? Hopefully some will offer advice based on personal EXPERIENCE, not just what they would do. We already know it's probably easier to just turn it over to a business that acts as a general contractor, but is that also a huge risk since you have no control over the sub contractors work and no "come back" should it be shoddy ? Again to clarify, asking these things since a good friend has a kitchen remodel that resulted in a huge flooding of the kitchen and a great deal of damage even to walls, base boards, etc. The big box store stated the installers are NOT employees, they claimed they are only responsible for the materials they provided, no liability for work.
Thanks for sharing your experience. If you have used the one stop places, how much do you estimate (in percentage) you paid for this service ? 5%, 10% 15%, more ? ?

Last edited by Pairadocs; 09-23-2024 at 10:38 AM. Reason: add clarity
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Old 09-23-2024, 10:42 AM
retiredguy123 retiredguy123 is online now
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If you know what you want, it will be easier and less expensive to hire the trades you need and to be your own contractor.

You will never know how much you are paying a general contractor for his service.
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Old 09-23-2024, 11:41 AM
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IMHO, I would hire individual contractors and have them provide PROOF of insurance and license, and prior to hiring you can check reviews with Seniors Against Crime and BBB. In this manner, if there is a problem, there is no finger pointing you know who is doing the work, you know who screwed up. Be sure the workers are EMPLOYEES and not subcontractors.
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Old 09-23-2024, 12:15 PM
retiredguy123 retiredguy123 is online now
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I would add that "proof of insurance" is not just a simple letter from an insurance company. If you really want proof of insurance you need:

1. The name of the insurance company, policy number, and a point of contact
2. The policy premium paid and when does the policy expire?
3. The dollar limit of coverage
4. Can the homeowner file a claim against the policy for the contractor's wrongful actions, "independent" of the contractor?

If the policy is just a personal liability policy to protect the contractor, it is worthless to the homeowner. What good is an insurance policy if the contractor either refuses to file a claim or disappears?
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Old 09-23-2024, 03:24 PM
OrangeBlossomBaby OrangeBlossomBaby is offline
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Whatever you end up doing, be sure it doesn't involve painting the walls BEIGE. No shade of beige. Not sand, not tan, not cream, none of that. Just don't do it. It is a dreary color, it makes the room seem dark and dingy. The stain of tar from cigarette smokers turns windows and walls beige. Go with a non-yellow shade - something in the grey or bluish-white, or even a greenish-white color. As Monk always said, "you'll thank me for that later."
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Old 09-23-2024, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by OrangeBlossomBaby View Post
Whatever you end up doing, be sure it doesn't involve painting the walls BEIGE. No shade of beige. Not sand, not tan, not cream, none of that. Just don't do it. It is a dreary color, it makes the room seem dark and dingy. The stain of tar from cigarette smokers turns windows and walls beige. Go with a non-yellow shade - something in the grey or bluish-white, or even a greenish-white color. As Monk always said, "you'll thank me for that later."
Grays or bluish-white feel cold to me and I've never enjoyed being in a home with that feel. A light cream wall is a great paint color where flattering accents can be used. Do people actually smoke in the house anymore?

Back to the question at hand, it depends. If you are still between the ages of 65-70, general it yourself. Over that age, do your homework and hire an excellent contractor with great subs. Time and health become even more important after 70 and you don't want to use it up chasing subs.

BTW, always make sure you have a signed lien release from each contractor when their work if finished. Good luck!
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Old 09-23-2024, 05:45 PM
BrianL99 BrianL99 is offline
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Originally Posted by Pairadocs View Post
Again to clarify, asking these things since a good friend has a kitchen remodel that resulted in a huge flooding of the kitchen and a great deal of damage even to walls, base boards, etc. The big box store stated the installers are NOT employees, they claimed they are only responsible for the materials they provided, no liability for work.
Thanks for sharing your experience. If you have used the one stop places, how much do you estimate (in percentage) you paid for this service ? 5%, 10% 15%, more ? ?
I assume by "Big Box", you mean Lowe's or HD? You pay them and they in turn, pay their installers. Their contract is with you and they have a separate contract/relationship with their installers.

They are 100% responsible for the mistakes their installers make or damage caused by them. I've been down that road with HD & Lowe's and they both made good on their installer's screw ups.

They are essentially functioning as your General Contractor and you're not paying them for that work ... it's "free". They are insured. Their installers aren't always the best, but usually they're fairly competent. Kitchens & Baths are their specialty, but they do other things, too.
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Old 09-23-2024, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianL99 View Post
I assume by "Big Box", you mean Lowe's or HD? You pay them and they in turn, pay their installers. Their contract is with you and they have a separate contract/relationship with their installers.

They are 100% responsible for the mistakes their installers make or damage caused by them. I've been down that road with HD & Lowe's and they both made good on their installer's screw ups.

They are essentially functioning as your General Contractor and you're not paying them for that work ... it's "free". They are insured. Their installers aren't always the best, but usually they're fairly competent. Kitchens & Baths are their specialty, but they do other things, too.
What you say is true but personally, I'd skip the big box stores.
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Old 09-24-2024, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
If you know what you want, it will be easier and less expensive to hire the trades you need and to be your own contractor.

You will never know how much you are paying a general contractor for his service.
You have no idea on the quality of the subcontractors and will have several people to go to if there is a problem. A good general contractor has worked with the subs and knows the quality of there work. If there is a problem only one person to contact. My opinion is a general contractor is worth the extra cost.
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Old 09-24-2024, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by OrangeBlossomBaby View Post
Whatever you end up doing, be sure it doesn't involve painting the walls BEIGE. No shade of beige. Not sand, not tan, not cream, none of that. Just don't do it. It is a dreary color, it makes the room seem dark and dingy. The stain of tar from cigarette smokers turns windows and walls beige. Go with a non-yellow shade - something in the grey or bluish-white, or even a greenish-white color. As Monk always said, "you'll thank me for that later."
lol. I always thought beige/greige colors looked like baby poop.

I went with a color called big chill from Sherman Williams. It's a light neutral gray with a very subtle bluish tint depending on the light hitting it. it brightens up the room and has a fresh clean look to it but also doesn't come across as cold or sterile at all.

Another really nice light neutral gray is Benjamin Moore gray owl, which I guess is more on the subtle greenish side.
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Old 09-24-2024, 11:24 AM
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You have no idea on the quality of the subcontractors and will have several people to go to if there is a problem. A good general contractor has worked with the subs and knows the quality of there work. If there is a problem only one person to contact. My opinion is a general contractor is worth the extra cost.
Agree with general contractor recommendation. Currently having entire home renovated to be more ADA compliant due to wife now being permanently in a wheelchair.

You deal with the Project Manager of project for everything & they are completely responsible for entire job & they deal with the subs.
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Old 09-24-2024, 09:47 PM
Pairadocs Pairadocs is offline
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Originally Posted by retiredguy123 View Post
I would add that "proof of insurance" is not just a simple letter from an insurance company. If you really want proof of insurance you need:

1. The name of the insurance company, policy number, and a point of contact
2. The policy premium paid and when does the policy expire?
3. The dollar limit of coverage
4. Can the homeowner file a claim against the policy for the contractor's wrongful actions, "independent" of the contractor?

If the policy is just a personal liability policy to protect the contractor, it is worthless to the homeowner. What good is an insurance policy if the contractor either refuses to file a claim or disappears?
Exactly ! In the past we've found the state dept. of consumer affairs VERY helpful with providing us with information given to us by various contractors and trades people. We have found some FRIGHTENING information on some, including vans with the state licensing number painted in large letters ON the van, as well as on the business cards. But when checking with the state we found the number was an actual state issued number.... HOWEVER, the business only paid for the license or filed the insurance policy for ONE year, never renewed, yet KEPT the state license number on their vehicles and cards. Seems the state has no procedure for shutting such people down ! ? They DO send out a letter, but then it's up to the business or trades person to renew license and insurance ! State "police" do no visit the business personally, and there is no penalty for not renewing a license or an insurance policy, so many just keep telling people they have these, and leave them on their cards and vehicles long after expired.
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Old 09-24-2024, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeBlossomBaby View Post
Whatever you end up doing, be sure it doesn't involve painting the walls BEIGE. No shade of beige. Not sand, not tan, not cream, none of that. Just don't do it. It is a dreary color, it makes the room seem dark and dingy. The stain of tar from cigarette smokers turns windows and walls beige. Go with a non-yellow shade - something in the grey or bluish-white, or even a greenish-white color. As Monk always said, "you'll thank me for that later."
LOL ! Sounds like you are really depressed with your choice. It's such an individual thing. Seen entire walls painted VERY dark colors, even BLACK a couple times. But no, the things we are considering do not include any painting. You must have bought an already built model... the villages builders just LOVE beige, LOL, they must get quite a good deal on it in quantity...LOL !
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Old 09-24-2024, 10:46 PM
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Check out the range of 'lavender greys'. It's the new neutral.
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Old 09-25-2024, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeBlossomBaby View Post
Whatever you end up doing, be sure it doesn't involve painting the walls BEIGE. No shade of beige. Not sand, not tan, not cream, none of that. Just don't do it. It is a dreary color, it makes the room seem dark and dingy. The stain of tar from cigarette smokers turns windows and walls beige. Go with a non-yellow shade - something in the grey or bluish-white, or even a greenish-white color. As Monk always said, "you'll thank me for that later."
I wouldn’t lead someone astray with such a general statement. It really depends on the light exposure in the room. And personal preference of course. If a room has a northern exposure the colors tans, beiges can look beautiful. i.e. SW natural tan really enhances the room and has a subtle green undertone, no yellow and it has a high LRV which indicates how much light it reflects. The higher the value the more it reflects. Pearly white is another example and I’m sure there are more.
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